Packed with nicely sorted parts and featuring real patina, this daily driver offers the buyer a turn-key classic. Listed for auction here on eBay out of Selden, New York, this 1946 Chevrolet 1/2 Ton Pickup already has enticed 32 bids reaching nearly $10,000.
Upgrades include a Mustang II front end, power steering, and disc brakes. I cringed when I read that the seller “simply sprayed WD40 on it once a year.” A body shop owner once told me he banished WD-40 (and anything containing silicone) from his shop because it would cause demon fish-eyes that could not be exorcised even if you sanded to bare metal. Can anyone confirm this fear?
The re-built windshield crank provides natural air-conditioning. I travelled all over Pennsylvania in my bench-seat F250 and often used a boot as a cup holder, but this ’46 offers the modern convenience of handy DIY cup holders. I expected to see a “Western Blanket” concealing who-only-knows-what but, instead, this seat appears to be in decent condition and ready for a road trip. The seller claims this rig will cruise at 80 with no bad habits.
A 1968 Chevelle 250 cid inline 6 cylinder powers this vintage hauler, with later High-Energy-Ignition and a four-speed overdrive for a more modern driving experience. The hood prop alone is worth the price of admission. A Clifford intake and 390 CFM carb gives the old 250 some extra boost while paying homage to the vehicle’s roots. With little to complain about, where do you think the bidding will end on this turn-key truck?
I LIKE IT ALOT!
(Sorry about the caps)
John, you’re shouting,,,but I agree, someone knew what they were doing.
I like the truck don’t want any part of the patina in my opinion this not only devalues it I also agree with all about painting it shiny
Yes, anything oil or silicone based is taboo in a body shop. A friend & I actually had to move our (after hours) body shop because the guys we were sharing the building with started heating with waste oil. Fish eyes are evil.
Oil heat of any kind stinks. It’s like heating your place with a bus engine.
Sorry but what are demon and fish eyes?
Fish Eyes https://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&q=fish+eyes+in+automotive+paint
Demons are fictional evil creatures. Since Fish Eyes are “evil” and ruin your paint-job calling fish-eyes “Demon” is just a joke. But they are evil, and must be eliminated.
Good place to start. Since it’s already been resto’d I’d keep on going. I’d raise the front end to get it closer to the stock stance, get rid of the Chieftan light and finish the bodywork; patina does nothing for me other than remind me that the project is unfinished. The owner does the right thing by rubbing it down with WD-40 every now and then; spraying clear coat over rust just sends the rust down into the metal and speeds up the deterioration. I’ve talked to a number of bodymen and do it yourselfers and they all agree that silicone can cause problems with paintjobs. I had a couple of bike paint jobs go fish-eyed on me years ago. Extra sanding and ‘Metal Prep’ worked just fine.
Crustina does nothing for me either.
That’s not how rust works.
If the rust IS effectively encapsulated it would be halted. Let’s remember though, there are two sides of the sheet metal.
I didn’t think the regular, original WD 40 had any silicone. Good to know.
I thought that WD40 was a fish oil based product? But I have been wrong before.
I like it. No room in the garage though.
I’d love it but I’m sure that bidding will go north of 20000 on something like this.
Love to see some under shots of this vehicle, it could make me a believer
Silicone can be used to make a crackle finish (with fish eyes)
I absolutley hate those cheap ass bullet hole decals. I’ve seen enough vintage bikes with that cheesy look.
Love the truck, hate the idea of pimping it with those silly decals. Leave the truck some dignity.
Ps. if they want bullet holes, I can accomadate.
Silicone & paint don’t mix well. Always clean surfaces to be painted with a high solvency thinner before even attempting to paint. Moreover, House of Colors(tm) paint is very expensive. Dupont Centari is the cheap stuff and it’s not cheap either.
Note: All great paint jobs start with great preparation, and end with appropriate application, and drying time.
Bob
I’m in Minneapolis, and Kosmoski painted my bike back in the day. My old bike, passed onto my son, a ’74 850 Norton Commando will be shot by him, even though he is retired. My son has helped him with his personal hotrod sound systems. He is still active on his own projects.
This, to me, is about as good as it gets. Patina is all the rage now ( for some) and this truck spells it out perfectly, right down to the faded lettering, but underneath, it’s all business, modernized perfectly, exactly how I’d do it. Not some mombo stinky diesel, or firebreathing LS something, just a dependable, updated classic pickup. I agree with geomechs, I don’t care for this patina thing, because I lived with rust all my life. Unlike California, that always had nice cars.It’s the rusty ones that get the attention, because they are different. These had such nice front ends, all chromed out again would be sharp. And paint it, for heavens sake. Nicest resto-mod classic truck to come through here in a while. I could never pay that for this, but I feel it’s certainly worth it.
I’ve never heard of “visor with traffic light prism mounted to the dashboard”.
There’s something over on the left side – how does a “traffic light prism” work?
In the olde days- traffic lights were hung on a wire in center of street. When you pulled up to light & you were 1st car, light was nearly overhead. The viewer enabled seeing the light change, by using (usually) a prism or convex mirror to reflect the light from signal. A GM Dealer option in the 1950’s
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