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Drop Top Style: 1951 Chevrolet Styleline

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Early American convertible are often a rare sight usually falling victim to worn tops and plenty of rust. This Styleline spent many years in storage, to eventually be re-commissioned for road duty yet again. This Styleline is a driver, but still could use a few things. This Chevrolet is offered at $16,900. Find it here on eBay out of Elkridge, Maryland.

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This Styleline is propelled by Chevrolet’s robust 235 cubic inch inline 6 with a column shifted manual transmission. There are not many specifics on the engine but we assume it to be in good health. The current owner performed a mechanical restoration on this Chevy so it is in safe driver condition.

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Looking inside of this convertible reveals a very nice dash and steering wheel. There is some obvious patina, but overall the dash and door panels look nice. The seats are mismatched and it would be nice to reupholster the seats in a matching age appropriate fabric. There is also no carpet present as well. The convertible top is listing as being in rough condition, but this Chevy does have a power top. The power top motor and pump have been rebuilt but the lift cylinders are in questionable condition, so the top is currently manually operated. The exterior of this Chevy looks nice, looking to wear most of its factory paint. Rust looks to be at a minimum in this convertible as the rockers and the exterior appear rust free. While we appreciate that the owner took action to keep this Chevy a driver, we aren’t exactly in love with the floor patches welded into the floors of this Styleline. There are readily available patch panels, and we would have preferred that the repair work had been with the appropriate floors. But to each their own, this Chevy is still a head turning driver.

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We love Chevrolet Styleline convertibles and think this one would make a good starter for someone looking to get into driving project. Or maybe for some it’s just good enough as it is.  Would you pick up this ’51 Chevrolet Styleline?

Comments

  1. Avatar photo RON

    This would have come with the 216 engine with the standard transmission. The 235 was only available with the powerglide until 53 when the inserted 235 became the standard engine I do believe.. Prior to that the old babbited rod 216 was standard.

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  2. Avatar photo Rob'sGT

    Side trim is 52. Grill/parking lights are 51. Bumpers look more like 49/50. I’d like to see the data plate to know whether it’s really a 51 or a 52.

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  3. Avatar photo bob

    I agree with Ron , the engine would be a 216 ; and with Rob , the side trim is ‘ 52. However, almost everything else looks to be ‘ 51 . Ornaments on hood and trunk are ‘ 51 ,from the only under hood shot motor mounts look to be ‘ 51 ( they were changed for ‘ 52) . I think the bumpers were the same from ‘ 49 thru ‘ 52 , different grille guards etc. were bolt on options .

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  4. Avatar photo Mark S

    As mentioned above that the floors were redone without using stamped floor plates. First thing that must be pointed is these early 50’s cars is the floors were flat and were level with the top of the rocker. That being said all the replacement pans offered were the ribbing stamped in. I see nothing wrong with using blank flat plates as were used here, in fact if you go this route you can put down heavier plating the original being 20 to 22 gauge steel. The blanks can be what ever you want such as 16 to 18 gauge which firstly don’t need the ribbing and second will take about 80 years to rust threw. I personally Think that the auto makers could have done that but choose not to because they wanted their floors to rust out in 10 years. My only issue with these plates is that they were not fully welded into place but rather were stitch welded. When you do only a stitch weld on a lap joint you create a water trap and a premature return of rust. Unless your building a concourse car who will care or even know for that matter. Ideally your going to want to cover this floor with a metal preservative such as tar or spray liner followed by rubber or carpeted flooring. So I’m not sure what is so unimpressive about the plate material that was used on this repair work. As for the welds its not to late to fully weld them into place.

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  5. Avatar photo dogwater

    bla bla bla I think this would a great project for an upgrade small block chev auto tran
    suspension etc . cool paint job wheels

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  6. Avatar photo geomechs Member

    Nice car but I agree with Mark S in that the floor repairs should be completed. For all the trouble that they went through I’m kind of surprised they only went that far. and didn’t do it all the way. However, it wouldn’t be all that difficult to finish the job.

    235 motor? The ad itself says that it’s a 216. According to my information the 235 was available only with the Powerglide; the only motor you could get with a manual transmission was the 216. No power house; the best you can hope for is 55 mph…

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    • Avatar photo Rob T.

      I really don’t think a vintage car needs to be as quick as the modern type. Appreciate the old ones for what they are, not what you THINK they should be. If you want modern, then buy a modern car.

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      • Avatar photo geomechs Member

        I fully agree, Rob. Trying to make an old car quick can sometimes get you into trouble. These cars were designed for 92 hp, not 300. I’ve occasionally had my ’49 going 65 but only for a short time. The brakes work good, bringing the car down from 55, but I would question their abilities at 75.

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  7. Avatar photo Rustytech Member

    These got lost in history when the tri fives came along, but they are very attractive cars, I would love to have it.

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  8. Avatar photo Ck

    This thing is kool the way it is, Drive it.now fix her up as you go .It’s to nice to hot rod .If it were beat up I’d say do it but its not. Leave it like it is.

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  9. Avatar photo Jon

    This could go either way without destroying its looks…

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  10. Avatar photo Cliff

    The paint looks suspicious. Like it has been shot with a cheapo spray gun.. The shadows should be clearer. Caveat Emptor!

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