We recently received an email from Stephanie J asking for help. You see, her mother was left with this ’69 Camaro Z/28 after her late husband passed away. They have already had a few people look at it and even had some offers, but they aren’t sure what it’s worth and just want to make sure they aren’t getting ripped off. Sadly, they don’t know all the specifics on the car’s condition, which makes valuing it a bit of a challenge but Stephanie thought the collective knowledge of the Barn Finds Community could at least give them a basic idea of value. And who knows, maybe they will end up listing it here as an Exclusive!
From Stephanie – Hi Barn Finders. I need help. My mother has a “barn find” 1969 Camaro Z28. It has actually been in the garage under a cover for many years. I don’t think it has been started for several years and last time I heard my stepfather (passed away a couple of years ago) talk about it, the transmission needed some work. I am pretty sure the engine is not original but I think everything else is.
The interior and exterior still look good. It ran the last time it was started but like I said, that was quite some time ago. We are just at a loss. How do you put a value on a car that needs work? The prices for similar cars are all over the place. She got an offer for $20K but we thought that might be low. Any insight you could give would be very helpful.
The engine doesn’t look original, but it would be worth checking the numbers to see exactly what it is. Even without the correct 302, this is still a desirable car and looks to be in nice shape. It’s clearly been parked in the same spot for a long time, so it’s going to need a good detailing.
It’s hard to put an exact price on this Camaro, it’s only worth what someone’s willing to pay, but $20k seems low. So be sure to take a closer look at all the photos Stephanie sent over and let her know how much you think this car is worth as is! We want to thank her for sharing this Camaro with us and hopefully, we can give them an idea of what a realistic asking price is for it.
Stephanie:
Let me test drive it for a couple of years and get back to you 👀
seriously this looks good without seeing underneath at pans and trunk.
I suggest going to Haggerty insurance classic insurance evaluation aye to get the range but with a bad clutch or pressure plate to tans this should bring mid thirties minimum. Even if you rented a barn and put dust on car to stage like many 30s would pop and climb on price.
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z!28
I did not validate your vin in a camaro vin decoder (please do this to ensure a true z28)
After
Go to here
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro-Z!28
The base non Z starts 28500 and real Zs with orig engine go from 30s to six figures . The non orig should set you in 40s if the decoder show true z28.
The block in the car is easy to find the block code (it’s on the right side passenger side fender behind the fan belts on engine block base on a protruding ledge type)
This can help with the selling of knowledge of engine block year and size in case it’s original 302 engine or replacement etc.
can you guys tell I am I fool for a 60’s chevy? That engine code if original for a 69 Z/28 will be DZ for 1969!
Your vin won’t tell you if it’s a real Z28 trim tag would need to be an x33 or x77 and if there aren’t any you would need paper work to prove it
Vin 124379N604012 is to a 1969 v8 coupe made at the Norwood plant.
124 is V8 37 Coupe 9 is year N is assembly plant, Norwood Ohio
20 to 25 is pretty much what cars worth as it sits it’s gonna need attention if you wanna put money into it you can get 30 + out of the car easily. I restore cars for a living and gm is my specialty. If need any info or helo you can get ahold of me
Just as an observer only, I think the car in the visible condition and a little bit of inoperable condition reports fron Stef, I have had at least 10 of these cars over the years, and today reconditioning is at an all time high. Everyone has a rare collector until they add all their time and receipts up. If you have a firm 20k offer. Do not let this guy get away. I will not give my estimate, because I’ve been down this road with over 200 classic cars. Today’s passion for me is New Muscle with Big Time Horsepower. Not to offend, Take the offer, put it behind you.
Way more than 20 grand it’d definitely be worth checking if the motors original or if it might be put up somewhere
$20,000 is totally fair I would not even pay that much for a non# matching car.
That’s what I thought Haggerty would tell you what it’s worth at both the high and low end. Someone made a offer hoping to get great car at a low price
Frankly, feel Hagerty values are overinflated. They have a vested interest in priming the market higher. Just my opinio.
Ask her to get a picture of the trim data plate on the drivers side firewall. 8k tach used from 1/69 to 10/69
Looks like the car is worth the $20k if it is a fake, should be worth $30k minimum if original in that condition. If the engine if not original it will adversely affect the value, but the engine that is shown is an old style with the galley vent tube so it may have been rebuilt and still be the original block and heads. The numbers matching and correct engine, trans, rearend, brakes, etc will document a higher price or be the justification for a lower price. In today’s world to put a car in the apparent condition that this one is in would take a minimum of $20K and that would be with the owner providing the car to start with and then adding aftermarket interior and paint, etc. Try this link for some specifics to look for: http://stevescamaroparts.blogspot.com/2012/03/steves-camaro-parts-identifying-first.html
It would be worth it to find a reputable friend, neighbor or shop in their town that would air the tires, get the motor fired up and running just to add to the value and give them an idea of what they have. A person familiar with vehicle documentation could check the engine numbers, cowl tag, rearend, etc.
didn’t they stop using those in 68? my guess is at least the intake is not original, but how many Zs had the original motor shelled? Lots…wonder if the tranny just needs bushings in the shifter this was a common problem in old muncie tranny equipped GMs of that era?
68Custom, There is plenty of evidence that if any 69 Z28s didn’t use it, it would have been late in the year and I have no casting number for it, but it could have been the manifold that was designed for the 70 1/2 because the 69s were made for 1 1/2 years waiting on the new body design. Here is some info and a picture of the proper 69 z28 manifold, that shows the galley breather. Chevrolet needed an appropriate intake manifold to take advantage of the other high performance engine pieces, and they settled on a single four barrel aluminum high rise design. The basic design of the manifold remained unchanged from 1967 to 1969 although two different casting numbers were used. 1967 and 1968 engines used casting number 3917610, and the intake featured the thermostat hole located off-center toward the drivers side of the car. The engine temperature sensor on 1967 models was located in a drilled and tapped hole next to the thermostat opening. On 1968 intakes, this hole is plugged due to the relocation of the sensor to the head. 1969 intakes, casting number 3932472, centered the thermostat hole and are otherwise unchanged from the earlier intake. As an over the counter option in 1969 (available through the parts department, never installed by the factory), the Z/28 buyer could order a dual four barrel aluminum cross ram intake manifold (casting number 3940077). This intake was designed so that longer intake runners and two carburetors could be used while fitting under the stock hood. In 1969, the intake came with a special ZL2 cowl induction hood and air cleaner. This intake performed poorly on the street, but when used on high rpm competition engines (the engine was designed for SCCA racing, after all) really came into it’s element.
As stated farther down, the correct manifold can have the plug removed to accept an oil fill tube but Chevrolet dropped the oil fill tube on small blocks in 1968. The only exception is on the cross ram manifold which still used an oil tube.
I’d recommend having a reputable auto appraisal company give it an inspection. From the pics shown, it looks to be rust-free, low miles, and possibly original paint – all good. If by chance the engine is original to the car, it boosts the car’s value substantially. It’s worth knowing the answer for sure. I wouldn’t hazard a guess on its value, but an inspection would be worth your time and money, because the car is valuable.
I agree with Tim. If you can find a reputable auto appraisal company that knows Camaros that would be the route I would take. If it’s got it’s original drivetrain and it isn’t rusted to death underneath, it could be worth farly more than the 20K offered.
Spoken like a true Gentleman!
Only way to go! You would get a fair, unbiased certified range of value but remember it is really worth what some one is willing to pay. Good luck
looks pretty good and a cursory glance makes me believe it may be a real Z. where are you located Stephanie? I cant afford it regardless but if its on the southwest coast of Fla I would be glad to check it out and offer an educated opinion of value. I bet I am not the only BF reader that would do this. But it looks like a Z with factory green deluxe interior, gauges, cowl hood and rear spoiler, and disc brakes. verify it has a 12 bolt rear and your most of the way there seeing that its equipped with a 4 speed as well? Off the top of my head I would say its worth somewhere in the neighborhood of 30k. but my opinion and 2 bucks will buy you a cup of coffee…love to check it out talk with the BF people if its in the cards….
also if this car is mostly original the price will increase dramatically!
As-is where-is, I’d ballpark it at $26-28K. With a detailed inspection, checking numbers, and sorting out mechanicals, you’d probably be sitting at low-mid 30s if it’s non-match drivetrain.
Great find!!! $20k sounds like an insult of an offer for almost Any 69 Camaro, especially This nice covered, garaged and was someone’s pride and joy. We’ve all seen some high prices for POS starting projects . This is Not one to let go to a flipper! Would Love to have, but no room. Good luck !!
On a car like this one, I’m not sure that I’d even put air in the flat tire(s) to change it’s appearance. I would like to see underneath the Z, even though it’s obviously been loved.
The oil breather location is a plus. Neat car. If you see any of the Smashed Monkey Gar-bage boys at your doorstep, charge double, and get stock in their restaurants, Stephanie. TCOPPS has it right based on what it costs to build a lesser kept Z to this condition.
As said above your going to need to get it into a shop for appraisal and estimated.if all your looking at is clutch and transmission repair it would be worth it to do the work, as well as getting it running. With it all cleaned up and road ready you might be adding $10k to its value.
There is some very good advice offered so far. I would also urge you to see if engine, transmission and rear end are “numbers matching” (original to the car). It makes a big difference in the value. You can Google to find out where to locate the numbers and how to determine if they match! Also check the frame to see if it is badly rusted and/or bent (from an accident). Frame damage drastically lowers the value of a car. This is a very desirable car if it is indeed a Z/28. My estimate is 25k non-numbers matching and 35K numbers matching as it sits, unless you are looking for a quick sale. You will get a lot of low ball offers and may have to be patient to get what you want. Advertise it online. http://www.Hemmings.com is one good one. Also, IF you find it is a totally numbers matching Z/28, you might want to consider taking it to an auction like Mecum’s. Barn finds are hot right now and an auction might just get you a premium price. It is a sweet ride. Best of luck!
She needs to find a friend who can check it over and try to get it started. Get some air in the tires. Something as simple as that will increase the price. If I were closer I’d be glad to help her out.
If you were going to fake a Z28 I don’t think this is the color you’d pick. If you were faking one, I think they’d have used the blue or orange, red or possibly Daytona Yellow. As stated earlier, it would be nice to see the body tag.
I’m not sure what the color has to do with faking a Z28. All that is involved is installing Z28 emblems on a non Z28. If it had a decent green paint job, then the p.o. decided to add the emblems. Back in the day, I used to see first gen camaros with Z28 emblems on a regular basis. Auto trans, 10 bolt rear axles, 350 engines, drum brakes, bondo, crappy paint jobs, etc. My cousin had a dark blue 69 that fit this description. He sold it and later bought a 69 Camaro SS/RS Z10, white with orange stripes (he had no idea at the time that it was a “Pace Car coupe”.
This Green/black paint is legit but not plentiful. My first Z28 looked just like it.
It’s a lovely thing! I hope it gets a great price and goes to a good home. Much envy here .. would love to own it.
I’ll add my two cents
If it is NOT a real Z28 and there are issues like previous bondo and rust repair, rust under the vinyl top, etc. $20k may be about right.
If it is a solid car, but still a FAKE, with a 4spd it would command north of $25k running.
If it is a REAL Z28 with a NON original run of the mill small block, it could bring $30k plus if the rear axle and trans are correct.
If it is a REAL Z-28 with a NON original but REAL DZ 302 Engine it would likely bring north of $35k
If it is a REAL Z28 with matching numbers everything and as solid as it appears to be in the photos it could bring north of $40k
If it is a REAL Z28, with matching numbers everything and running and driving, cleaned and detailed it could bring north of $45k
So with your car, there are a LOT of “If’s”.
$20K definitely sounds low, but as stated at least a number verification would be required and in person inspection important to pinpoint a realistic price. From the pictures it is impossible to verify but the intake could be correct since the plug on the original manifold could be removed to accept an oil fill tube. Along with the obvious engine issues (valve covers, emission system, air cleaner, and headers) other minor flags (standard interior steering wheel with an aftermaket emblem in an otherwise Special Interior Group equipped car, missing seat upholstery buttons, incorrect door mirror, black paint underneath, etc).
This is not to say anything is bad, it just suggests having a better understanding of the car before a realistic value can be determined.
Someone needs to look at the trim plate among other things. There have been some changes in the engine compartment, wrong carb, wrong pulleys along with some other parts. Hopefully it is a real Z28, but they are really easy to fake. It would be nice if that is not the case, she is smart to research the car before selling.
Steve R
Good lesson here for everyone to have a current appraisal done on their collector vehicle/vehicles and filled with their life insurance and will. If the unfortunate happens your spouse will not be stranded like Stephanie’s Mom.
A photo of the firewall mounted trim tag, might help identify the car as a real Z/28.
69 Z/28’s built at Norwood OH, after mid December 68, contained an “X” code, to identify them as Z/28’s, SS’s, Pace Car’s, etc. The “N” in the VIN identifies this car as being built at Norwood, so it could have an X code.
Tags marked with an X77, are 69 Z/28’s without the Style Trim Group, while X33 is a Z/28 with Style Trim. This car appears to have the Style Trim Group (wheel opening moldings, rear louver trim, bright drip moldings, etc), so I would expect to see X33 on the trim tag, if it is a real Z/28. This is assuming that the car was built after mid December 68, but the trim tag can help here too. The trim tag will have a body build date below the trim code. It is made up of two numbers for the month (01-12), and a letter for the week of the month (A-E).
On the right (passenger) side of the block is a machined pad, which should have two sets of numbers and letters. One set will start with either an X (Flint engine plant) or T (Tonawanda plant), followed by four numbers (01-12 for the month and 01-31 for the day), and finally the two letter code “DZ”, which is the engine code of a 69 Z/28 302. The second set of numbers should match the last 6 digits of the VIN “N604012”.
If the trim tag proves the car is a real Z/28, that greatly enhances the value, and if the engine can be identified as the original one, the value goes up even more. I’d say $30-$35K if it’s a Z/28 with the wrong motor, and maybe $40K to start, if it’s the original engine.
Those numbers are good asassuming the short block hasn’t been rebuilt and the block decked just sayin
If you were left real estate you would hire a professional to assess condition & market value to sell it rather than poll passers by. Why is this different?
Considering this car cover has protected it “all these years”, I want one just like it…any label ?
It has the correct redline tach, 6 grand….only Z’s had that, some had 6 grand redline and and 7 grand peak, later cars had 6 grand reline but 8 grand max… check the glove box door for 15 inch wheels, only Z’s had that, but not original engine….$25 grand is it for me, the engine is the money maker. I have owned 6 1969 Z-28’s…and 5 1968’s….plus a couple of the 1970 cars….
…gotta ask, Dan…which one was your favorite…68, 69 or 70? I had a 69 Z, and drove my friends 70 Z…the 70 was much faster, and drove much better…
Well loved the ’69’s best but like you said, the ’70 was faster and did handle better and see so few of them anymore….love them equally I guess….
I think 375/396 also had the 6k redline?
Do NOT sell this car until you have a serious assessment and appraisal from someone who knows about Z/28s. The #1 expert I know of is Jerry MacNeish. I’m sure he charges for his services, but it will be well worth it! He is on FB (https://www.facebook.com/jerry.macneish) and his website is (www.z28camaro.com).
Of all the cars I had back in the day, my 1969 Z/28 RS was my favorite. Hugger Orange with black vinyl top like this one and black stripes. Houndstooth interior.
There should be someone local that could give an accurate assessment of the car for a fraction of the price. Do your own preliminary research, then bring in someone to verify your findings in writing.
Steve R
Get it appraised! There is currently a 69 Z engine on Craigslist for 5k I think. Call me, I’m interested in this Z also. I’ll make an offer.
Air up the tires, clean out the interior, finish uncovering the car then get help to push it out of the garage, wipe it down and get a car appraiser over to give you a appraisal. It will at least put you in the ball park of what to accept.
Quick! Someone call Donald Osbourn!
I suggest finding a local shop to get it running driving and detailed. Finds all the docs she can and then take the car to a auction. Should bring $40-50k.
I’m no appraiser but after seeing some of the rust bucket muscle cars which have passed through here, I think 20k is really low. These days, 20k gets you a rusted out 1972 Chevelle SS with the base 402 and automatic transmission. Not saying that’s what I’d pay, but that’s market reality, at least right now.
Using my gut, I’d put this at 30-32k if it’s a real Z/28, complete, and not rusty underneath. But as many are saying, it would be a good idea to get a professional appraisal. This is a rare sub-model of one of the most desirable American cars of all time, so I may even be low on my guesstimate.
Hagerty says about $48000.00 if it’s a daily driver and all original . That’s # 4 condition [ fair ] . Since it’s not all original and does not drive that of course just keeps bringing the price down . If someone just wants to make it a daily driver , I feel $20,000 is a fair price . If you want to bring it to # 2 condition [ excellent ] it would be worth about about $80,000 . But the car would have to be in all original and [ like new ] condition . As it is , it will bring what people will pay for it . I’d pay about $20,000 , but if I were you I’d put it on E-BAY with reserve .
The trim tag will tell you a lot about what the car really is. It is located on the firewall just outboard of the windshield wiper motor and behind the power brake booster. First inspect the two rivets attaching it to the firewall. If they look like they have been there for 49 years, the tag is probably original to the car. If they look newer than that, or it’s a rivet that GM didn’t put there, the tag may have been taken off another car to make it look like a Z/28 when it isn’t. When prices started to go up in the 1990’s some “people” did that.
Since it looks like your VIN number was built in Norwood OH in mid February, it will have the larger body tag with the Z/28 code on it. The tag should say:
Body by Fisher
ST 69-12437NOR XXXXX BDY (XXXXX is a 5 digit no. not VIN related)
TR 712 59 B PNT (Black deluxe seats, Frost green paint)
02B X33D80 (02B is second week Feb. build date)
I’m guessing at the paint and interior code from the pictures, and the build date could be 02C. The big thing is the X33 body code, that tells you it is a Z/28 with Style Trim Group. If it is X-77, it’s a Z/28 without Style Trim Group that has had wheel well opening moldings added in the past. D80 is the code for front and rear spoilers, but not all spoiler equipped cars have D80 on the data plate.
Of course the easy way is to get Jerry MacNeish to verify it. If he’s local to you or happens to be looking at another car in your area, the price may not be too bad and well worth it. If he has to make a long distance special trip, it could be pricey. Good luck and let BF know how you make out with it.
Too bad he didn’t write down everything he knew about it,
& what to do with it after he passed.
Also,look around the garage for any spare/original parts,&
see if you can find any paperwork,etc. on it.
It has something no other Camaro had. 8K dash tach. I bet it is a real Z
I’m just throwing this out there that it has the Rally Sport interior but not the Rally Sport exterior. Not a big deal to me. Just saying. Still a gorgeous car though.
deluxe interior RS option is separate,
There were three black interiors listed as options in my info. “Standard black”,
“Black deluxe”, and “Black houndstooth.” I never knew that one interior was associated with Rally Sport, but I don’t know everything. I’ve seen several Rally Sports with standard interiors, but they were restored and might have been changed. I bought a 69 Z/28 in 1996 that had low back 1967 bucket seats that were put in it in LA in 1970. I’m told that was common back in the day.
My cars have “Standard” interiors and the one my best friend had from 1973 to when the garage burned in 1993 was “Houndstooth”, so I know what those are. I assumed since this wasn’t any of the other two, I thought it must be “Black deluxe.” But that’s a guess on my part.
Remembering my time with my friend’s Z/28, we used to go to the US GP at Watkins Glen in the early/mid 1970’s. If you haven’t gone through the “Big Woods” (Allegheny National Forrest, as in deer/bear country) from Warren PA to Watkins Glen in a 25,000 mile original 69 Z/28 at racing speed, driven by a mad man, you haven’t lived. One deer or bear could have caused a real problem, but we were late teens/early 20’s and figured he’s a great driver, he’ll just miss it. We didn’t consider that missing a whole herd of deer isn’t always possible. One bear can also be a really big one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgOCATWRLug
The joys of driving in PA. I slid a 75 nova thru 5 deer on a wet road. I was only doing 55. 120 would have been a different story.
I second the getting the JM appraisal or you’re likely to get taken advantage by not knowing if it is an original Z/28 or a clone. It might cost a few bucks, but it might also be the ticket to getting much more for the car.
Another on that JM appraisal. If it’s verified it could be well worth the cost of having it done.
I don’t know anything about how cars are registered in the US being a Brit, but would the registration document say what model of car it is? We do here in the UK and it includes the vin number. (Which should be the one source of truth via a vin decoder?)
Or do your registration documents just say ‘camaro’?
You also have bits of paper with the spec written on in US built cars … where are these located? Would help?
Get a nationwide appraisal for the cost of an Ebay listing, with reserve set at $60,000. Of course, you would need the details of engine numbers and a lot of pictures, but everyone (almost) wants a 69 Camaro. I say almost, a local Camaro guy that had a parts biz is now sick of hearing about 69 Camaros LOL.
This is a great idea!
There’s more than a few of you posting comments on this Z. And you obviously know what you’re talking about. Why not have Stephanie find out if any of you are close enough to her to check the car out for her. If she is willing to pay for your services, upfront or work something out in the sale of it, if you can help her add to the value of it.
Stephanie, Where is the car located? City/State
Sorry for your loss. I agree with Tim & others. ( didn’t read all comments) Spend few bucks, get it running & hire a professional classic car appraiser. Not only will you have a valid report of what you have , you will have it to show anyone that is inrested in buying it.
Stephanie, first off let me say that I’m sorry for your loss. I hear similar stories fairly often, and I always think that has to be the absolute worst way to receive what would otherwise be a very cool car to have. :-(
I’m not knowledgable enough to contribute much. But I will agree that it should be thoroughly inspected by a knowledgable person.
You may also consider reaching out to any local Camaro clubs or Z/28 Registry (if such a thing exists). They should be able to put you in contact with someone reliable for the inspection / assessment.
That person should:
– Assess quality of paint and body work and current condition of those.
– Record and decode data tags and major component casting codes and dates.
– Determine deviations from “factory correct”.
– Take photos to document any / all of the above.
– Give a reasonable estimate of value.
These things are not difficult to do ~ they just take time, and eyes on the car.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
ask is 41k negotiate down to no less than 33k
Not sure what I can do but I might be able to get some help through the GM Heritage Center
Stephanie, you should call on local car clubs to get the name of a reputable and knowledgeable appraiser that knows camaros in your area or you most likely will get ripped off by a lowballing bottom feeding flipper.
Seems to me that the family should reach out to any friends of Dad that might have helped him with doing the car. Nice looking Camaro, I hope it’s a real Z/28, just change the color of the engine.
If that is the original shade of green it is more rare than most 69 Z28. Not many in that colour combination.
Call your insurance agent and have that person recommend an appraiser.
Josh, have you gotten any indication Stephanie is reading this?
Now all of us regular readers finally get our chance to be “professional” car appraisers! love it!
I’ll never be able to afford a real ’69 Z. This will just have to do.
Nice car Ken i really like the red blk stripe combo btw I’ll never be able to afford a 69 Z either had a 71 Z back in the 70’s my one and only camaro until 3yrs ago now i have this camaro
She does need help and I help someone honest and a real person helps her.
And the gentleman who made comment about the tv shows guys hit nail on the head stand firm make them pay double.
I hope someone steps up helps the family if I was close I would do it for free.
Why because some day it’s going to halftone us all and I have lots of collection and do have it written down but there is always some dirt bag that try’s to slide in there and take advantage of our wife’s and families. God bless you Sorry for your loss. Hopefully someone does the right thing good luck
must have rear bumper guards
So much advice. Mostly the same.
And even funnier. She probably aint reading any of it as someone mentioned
You can lead a horse to water, etc ;-)
M.
My pace car convert was verified by those #’s on the cowl by the windshield wipers….separate from the tag….
My thinking is that someone came along and offered 25K for it just like it sits and they sold it. I agree with most of what the previous comments said. If the lady is willing to invest a little money in it and get it running and the tranny fixed she could in fact pull another 10K out of it. Should it prove to be all original and an authentic Z28 with matching numbers not restored to that condition then she is looking at 40K perhaps more. That yella paint on the motor though does appear to me as a rebuild indicater. If for some reason and a stroke of luck there are receipts in the glove box for work done to the car that could be a boon as well. Perhaps there is a folder somewhere in a desk with all that info in it. That could be very helpful in selling the car.
Every car owner is different, Some have the need for speed, some just want it to be original and as stock as can be. Some want to throw every after market thing that they can at the car. This guy though didn’t add the curb feelers and fuzzy dice. He liked his car clean and running well and took care of it. It strikes me as a solid car not all rusted out. If it was repainted it was quality work from the pics I see. Like everyone else said though it would take eyes on the car along with a mirror and a flashlight to get all the numbers and see whats what.
If she would be willing to share what state she lives in someone here maybe able to go and have a look at the car and help her gleen more info. If your in NC I would be willing to help you with that. No I am not interested in buying the car. It is not in my current budget. But like some of the others said I would hope that you could get a fair price for it. I’m sure that you know someone that was a friend of your step dads that could tell you a lot more about the car. Guys love to talk about their cars with buddies. Perhaps you know someone who is good with fixing on cars that would come over and air up the tires and try to jump start the car to see if they can get it running. That will bring you more money right away.
Hi everyone – Stephanie here. I want to thank all of you for your advice, input and comments. I wanted to let some of you doubters know that I am indeed reading all of your comments. I have not had a chance to get back over and check for the ‘real’ Z28 indicators. However, I have reached out to a couple of people that do classic car restorations and a family friend. I think they will be able to help.
Once again, thanks to Josh and all of you who took the time to comment. I really appreciate it.
Stephanie
Thanks for getting back to us Stephanie. Please let us know what your contacts have to say – I’m sure we are all dieing to know the details, and what they have to say about estimated value.
Again, sorry for your loss.
Mike B.
If and when this is available for purchase, I would like a chance at buying it. Id be mid to upper 30’s on it. Thanks a ton!
Hi Stephanie, When I saw your car, I fell in love with it immediately as I grew up with these Camaros. I would love to own this if it is still available. This is exactly what I have been looking for. Please respond ASAP to my Email so we can discuss . maytreker@hotmail.com Thank you so much and have a blessed day. James May
Hello James….I would suggest that you take a few minutes and read ALL of the comments (and replies) that have been posted since the end of June. Stephanie’s last post to this site was on July 3rd, and she is no longer monitoring this posting, as many of us serious classic car owners/enthusiasts have suggested to her, she has more than likely sought out a Certified Appraiser with hands-on classic car experience to verify the authenticity and establish the fair market value of the Z28. Given that, she has probably verified the authenticity and value, and has either sold the car or decided to keep it in her family.
WOW…I can’t remember how long ago (if ever) I have seen sooooo much response to a specific vehicle on the Barn Finds website.
Needless to say, regardless whether this car is a “real Z-28” or not, the car does have a “real value”, ranging from Fair ($20K) to Excellent ($40-$60K), given the overall condition as it appears in the photos.
I won’t go any further, except to say I wouldn’t mind having it sitting in my garage (just the way it is)…and the best recommendation that I can share (without a lot of the B.S. that others have already provided), is to have the car APPRAISED BY A CERTIFIED/REGISTERED AUTOMOBILE APPRAISER familiar with Classic, Antique, Collector, Exotic cars (Hagerty, Mecum, Barret-Jackson can provide or refer). As a few others have already commented above, DON’T DO ANYTHING until you have at least 1-2 Certified Appraisals!
I’d pay 28k for it