- Seller: Jesse M
- Location: Boise, Idaho
- Mileage: 71,813 Shown
- Chassis #: GAN4L54384M
- Title Status: Clean
UPDATE – We have relisted this one with no reserve!
We have a lot of history with this little MG Midget. We featured it back in 2020 when it was offered in San Fransico with a bunch of spare engines and parts. We ended up buying it without the spare parts. We got started on reviving it, but a friend here in Boise had to have it, so we sold it to him and then we recently bought it back. We finally have it running and driving again! However, other more demanding projects require our attention, so we’ve decided to move this sweet MG along. We are offering it here as a Barn Finds Auction!
Getting this Midget back on the road was no small task. Admittedly, there’s still work to be done to make it a daily driver. Here’s everything that’s been done: full brake system rebuild, new clutch, clutch hydraulics, coolant hoses, carburetors rebuilt, transmission fluid changed, replaced missing body trim, new fuel tank, and a new fuel pump. What still needs to be addressed: carburetors tuned, speedometer cable replaced, suspension rebuilt, body rubber installed (included), and the interior could use some attention. We have a box of parts, including most of the body rubber and some tune-up items.
When we got this MG, it had carpet, but it was tattered and in rough shape, so we removed it and started cleaning the floors. When it was installed, a considerable amount of glue was used and has proven to be difficult to clean off, but that shouldn’t affect one’s ability to install new carpets. The seat upholstery presents nicely, but we would guess they are newer covers. The steering wheel is an aftermarket item, but its smaller size makes getting in and out of the car easier, especially with the hardtops installed. The door panels and dash all appear original, as do all of the gauges and switches. Speaking of the gauges, the speedometer and fuel gauge both work intermittently.
Our friend who briefly owned the car did much of the work to revive the engine after sitting, including cleaning out all the cooling passages, installing new hoses, flushing the radiator, installing a new head gasket, replacing the clutch, and resealing the oil pan. Unfortunately, they had to relocate for work and couldn’t take the car with them, so they never even had the chance to start or drive it. It’s a shame, too, as this is one of the best years for the Midget. This was the first year for the 1275 cc inline-four and had the highest power output at 65 horsepower. It also has disc brakes up front, a ribcage 4-speed transmission, and a quicker rear-end gearing. Being an early ’67 also means this example has the more attractive steel dash and just two window wipers, rather than the three found on later cars.
Getting it running didn’t require much more work. We adjusted the valves, changed all the fluids, and primed the oil system, and it started right up. The SU carburetors developed a bad fuel leak, so we recently rebuilt them. They have been reinstalled and set to the base starting point, but they still need to be tuned to get the engine running at its best. Making it driveable with a bit more work, as the brake system was in rough shape, and 1967 features a one-year-only brake master cylinder. Rather than modify things to mount a later unit or install a low-quality reproduction, the original master cylinder has been fitted with a rebuild kit. The clutch master was beyond saving, but quality replacements are readily available, so we replaced it. Bleeding the clutch hydraulics on any Sprite or Midget can be challenging, so we made a remove bleeder valve that mounts to the back of the engine block and makes the job much easier.
In the world of MG Midgets, early Mark IIIs are the most desirable, as they retained the clean looks of earlier cars while receiving the performance upgrades that everyone wants to add to their earlier cars. Cosmetically, this example isn’t perfect; the paint has some chips and could use a polish, there’s a dent on the trunk lid, and the hardtop needs new rubber gaskets, but overall, it has a great look to it. Most importantly, it’s an incredibly solid car that doesn’t need much to be a super fun driver! Let us know if you have any questions or if you’d like us to take any specific photos in the comments.
Bid On This Auction
Dennis bid $3,099.00 2024-07-22 10:59:04
MartyOpp bid $2,999.00 2024-07-21 20:23:30
BritSport bid $2,500.00 2024-07-18 12:26:13
britcars bid $1,500.00 2024-07-16 10:28:05
As you said, the best year of the Midget. All of our Sprites have been given clutch bleeders similar to yours and topped it off with dip sticks fastened to the removable plate on the right side of the transmissions. Makes checking and filling much easier. Nice car, just needs those things to make it like new.
Boy am I glad this car sold. I’m selling one of my cars, I don’t need another one, and I really like this car. Thank you Dennis, you saved me. Enjoy your new toy.
Nope, had one constantly worked on it, ended up taking a sledge hammer to it,ended that headache
Why on earth would you do that? These cars are simple and durable. You can buy any part needed for cheap too.
Spare included?
The spare is missing.
I have spare wire wheels for this car I would give away for the price of shipping. From Tennessee to wherever. New owner or Jesse can contact me if that needs to happen.
Great, solid survivor! Does the top leak at the lower window corners and are replacement window moldings available?
Will videos be forthcoming?
I’m not sure if it leaks but most everything available for these cars. There might be a few gaskets on the hardtop you’ll need to source from a glass guy but everything else is available from multiple sources.
Back in the 80’s I dated a gal who had one of these for her weekend driver. She told me when she bought it, she drove it from Maine to Rhode Island. She must have driving during daylight hours and following a wrecker the whole way. That battery was a bear to remove and replace. One night we’re driving up the coast road (no street lights ) and the whole darn car shuts off and goes black. No key response, nothing. I pop the hood, check the battery cables (tight). I find the voltage reg’ and bang on it, jiggle the wires and golly gee, the lights come on, it starts and down the road we go. Lucas, king of darkness
Actually, it’s the prince of darkness, and I’ve found, highly overstated. Lucas electrics were no worse than any other car, the nightmare of my ’78 Jeep Cherokee proved that. No, they weren’t a Chevy Nova, or Toyota Corolla, but buyers thinking so, had no business buying one in the first place. A sledge hammer,,that’s a bit extreme. The hammer was for taking the wheels off, not venting anger from some other source. I put many miles on a MG, and yes, required a bit of tinkering, but well worth it, I figured. I wouldn’t insult the seller with a low bid like this, a car like this is worth way more. The hardtop is a huge plus, and I’d love to have it,,,but the Jeep, you know.
I think the problem with Midgets in particular was they were inexpensive and became throwaway cars once sold as used cars or handed down by their original owner. Using my sister as an example….our father bought her a number of used cars, repaired and made safe for regular driving then handed her the keys. Never once did she open the hood or do any maintenance after that initial sorting by Dad. A number of her vehicles were left to die. Never diagnosed or repaired in the moment.
The adhesive for the carpeting may have actually preserved the floors somehow. I presume by “body rubber” we are speaking of the weatherstripping for the top, door frames and the window sweeps? Other than suspension, I don’t know of any other rubber parts since this is a monocoque body.
Nice Midgets are a joy; even not-nice Midgets have charm. Mine is a ’68, absolutely love it. It started life worse than this – and also white though a dirtier shade than Jesse’s car – but the motor did run nicely and always has. Some of my best memories involved that Midget – like pushing it from where I bought it to the shop 3, 4 blocks away to get the brakes fixed, and when all the gauges except the combo oil/water failed while on a rally and I navigated by the sound of the motor in 3rd, 4th. No! we placed badly! But it was fun and we didn’t overheat! …. and driving home on a cool spring night with the top down (it was missing), on a curvy road in the moonlight, listening to the engine note drone higher-lower-higher-lower as I passed the trees, watching the headlights put the forest in relief…. I will never forget that moment.
I drove my 67 from Georgia to Ohio and back 2 times on the way back up the 3rd time I made it to my daughter’s driveway when I burnt a intake valve. Pushed it to hard because I took the interstate instead of back roads. Hauled it home and did a valve job new head gasket and retarded the timing a smidgen. Long trip with no a/c or radio. But fun drive through the hills and curves. My cousin lives up there and owns a 75 , he said he is afraid to take his to town.lol
Gonna want to look closely at those front suspension wishbones. The one on the passenger side looks like it’s developed a crack where the king pin/fulcrum pin reside. Typical for the passenger side to go first in the US…the wheels that hit the road edge or ride the shoulders get the worst stresses.
Good eye! We just checked and there is a crack. There are brazed-in bushings down there, so it would be a good idea to replace them when refurbishing the suspension anyway. Moss has new wishbones for $150 each: https://mossmotors.com/264-067-wishbone-spring-pan-with-pin-illus-no-12
Yes, there are a number of companies that take in cores in exchange for rebuilt or new wishbones. I drove for hundreds of miles with both wishbones temporarily brazed to repair cracks. This car is a great starter Midget for someone if the price doesn’t get out of whack. Good drivers can still be had for under $3k, and the best one I ever owned (perfect panel gaps, 27k original miles, original spare, jack and bagged lugwrench in the boot) cost me all of $900 in 2017.
I haven’t seen any nice drivers with a 1275 for $3k in many years. Maybe a 1500 but not this era.
Could this car be taken on the highway and maintain highway speeds in its current state?
Please read the write-up above. As mentioned, the engine still needs some fine tuning and I would have the dampers rebuilt.
Midgets are not known as highway cars as the factory produced them. Many have adopted 5 speed transmissions from Datsun 210s to reach continuous interstate speeds without hearing the gearbox whine or self-destruct. You also gain a synchro first gear using the Datsun unit. If this 1967 example was in pristine operating condition as new, you would be uncomfortable attempting to enter a roadway with 65 mph speed limits and modern trucks motoring along at speeds exceeding that limit!
I actually have a Datsun 5-speed I might be willing to include with the car!
I do not agree. I had a 67 Austin Healey Sprite that had no trouble reaching speeds of 70 thru 100 mph. No engine trouble and no transmission trouble. I think you are wrong.
Also. If you want a little more top end. Take a 3.7 rear from 1500 Midget and replace the stock 3.9 rear. I did it and it made a difference with the Datsun 5 speed.
Yes, certainly the best year…. 1275 motor, steel dash, old style red taillights, folding top and a period hardtop! It won’t take much to make this one a real beauty and a driver! No bidding here ( although I could be tempted) as I have one already and too many other projects! Spridgets are by far the best ‘bang for your buck’ if you just want a fun driver and a good little car. Simple to work on, although sometimes tight. There are enough of us out there who know these cars that can offer simple help if you decide to jump in as you first time car!!
@Jesse. You know as a staff member that the 210 Datsun 5 speed trans is now ‘worth its weight in gold’ to knowledgeable Spridget people. At one time you could pick them up for nothing at the local junkyard. There were only two plus years of that trans in 80 and 81. My last one was in the mid 90’s and I got it for $35. It paired nicely with the Rivergate conversion. Good luck with your sale!!
Agree about adding the 3:7 pumpkin in the back. Those are also prized and pricey for those of us in the know. It should be noted that in those two years 1980-81 Datsun/Nissan produced enough manual transmission cars to generate LOADS of available salvaged transmissions after the body shells rusted away! Also note that we are speaking of the Datsun 210 and not the B-210. Final note, for those with nothing better to do, a transplanted four-speed 210 gearbox will give your Midget a synchronized first gear.
These are joyous little cars to drive! This one is the best of the bunch, and virtually identical to the one I owned so long ago. In fact at first I thought it was my old car. I put 10’s of thousands of miles on it.
You DO need to be aware of the “tinker” factor as there is always something you just fixed or going to fix. Sort of like a Model T. Not difficult, but inconvenient or time consuming or both. The dampers are an example of that. Or electrical. Or clutch. Or carbs. Or leaks. Or whatever. But usually not all at the same time.
I think my favorite part was the neutral handling. Too fast into a corner and it just slid, no under or oversteer, just a speed slowing slide. My current Forrester XT would run away from it, but not nearly the sense of speed.
It is very tempting to relieve a great past, but I’m already uncomfortable around the lifted, coal blowing trucks and can’t imagine being out in such an unprotected car anymore.
Sold for $3099.00. I think that was a heck of a deal for such a nice Midget!