“It doesn’t get better than it appears to be at first glance.” That’s what you’ll say when you check out this 1966 Chevy Impala SS coupe. The car presents fairly well in its opening shot. But then you notice the rest. Will you still want this car, here on ebay for a current bid of $6700 and no mention of a reserve? You have until Tuesday evening to make the call. The car is in Wellesley Hills, Massachusetts, in case you’re trying to figure out a cost for getting it safely to your garage.
When you see the name “Super Sport,” does it conjure up max muscle, as in SS 454? It often does for me, though there were SS models of the Nova that were six-cylinders. The car sold here is equipped with a 327-CID V8 with a four-barrel carb feeding the gas, so it’s not exactly a muscle machine, though it should be a strong runner. The odo shows just shy of 80,000 miles, but no claim is made as to the accuracy of that number. It it’s true, then this V8 has lots of miles to go before you’re going to have to dive in on a rebuild.
The descriptions in this ebay ad sound almost universally better than what the car presents to be. “Original car. Car runs great, drives great. Very reliable. Fun to drive.” I suppose all of that could be true and the car still be a beater, but it conjures up hope that doesn’t get paid off in terms of what your eyes tell you in this case. The top surfaces have rust. The top of the rear seat is hopelessly sun damaged. The door card, at least on the driver’s side, is a mess. The driver’s seat needs work. The seller saves the worst images for last, too, with the final two shots being of the rotted out rear quarters. What will you need to do to turn this car into your dream ride? More than it appears when looking at the car from front profile.
Just as a curiosity, what would a vehicle need to do to pass a Massachusetts state inspection, which this one has done? It does have upgraded mechanicals to remedy age-related concerns, including work on the brakes, ignition system, and carburation. The tires have been replaced as well, making it almost possible to imagine driving it for a while before you consign it to the restoration shop. Your level of comfort with a car that has some rust issues is probably the determining factor. But if you can overlook some bubbles, you might get a couple of summers of cruising out of this car before you hand it, and your bank account, over to your favorite body shop.
Have seen so much worse, not exactly a hotrod, although 327 with a glide runs decent. Needs a fender and some patches, but if it sells for the right price it would make a good project for an amateur restoration. Everyone needs to start somewhere and it appears to have good bones. Eastwood is out there for you! This was a hobby to enjoy something that gives you pride in what you the owner can learn and execute. Then polish and enjoy some more and in my case it was a couple of years, more than once. Today investors are kinda killing this. Shops are now swapping batteries and electric motors in classic cars. I am an old gearhead and can’t wrap my mind around great cars with their drivetrains ripped out and quietly sitting or cruising in the future. What’s the point, drive them while you got them! It’s about smiles per mile.
I’m pretty sure I saw a ’66 Impala SS with a factory 6-banger last year at a show in Florida.
I have seen S.S. Impala 6 cylinders too…kinda Kool I thought.
Back when I was a Junior in high school, a pair of sisters (twins) had a ’65 Impala SS with a factory 6 cylinder and a Powerglide. This was in 1971. The car was burgundy with a black interior.
I’m surprised its still under $10kas of when I’m commenting someone is going to get a fun project
Good bones .Nice trunk and floors.I’ve owned and own many a b body 65-70 Chevy but the 71 and up drive so much better then the old strut rod design front suspension imo but I still love my 65-70 Chevy b bodies. 327 is a great engine and the Carter wcfb carb is a good carb.I’d swap out the slip and glide for a th350.So much better performance. Mileage is not a factor of how much life is left in an engine.I’ve seen engines with 400k that have been maintained to the nth degree in 100% better condition than 30k engines not maintained. At the price it’s at is a good deal. I think it’s worth 10 k imo. Nice car.
Glwts.
Maggy you must be thinking of Mopars with strut rods not Chevy.
.65-70 B body Chevys had strut rods. They also have their center link behind the frame and have to have a special oil pan for clearance. The lower control arm is attached with one large bolt which has 2 cams front and rear you access thru the front of the frame to adjust camber, the nut is on the backside You should never see alignment shims between the upper control arm shaft and frame on a 65 – 70 b body Chevy. Caster was adjusted with the strut rods.Toe obviously with the tie rod sleeves. John Bean light – a -line where you went down into a shallow pit to use the hydraulic jacks to spin the tire after getting it off the turn tables and get it just right on the screen (the middle) via mirrors and lights and a few older techs taught me well back in the early 80’s when I was a teen.I still have the wheel attachments for the bubble gauge ,hub shims for it and the caster camber guage from Firestone after they scrapped the old equiptment and filled the pit in and they bought a Hunter 1011 string align( pre laser light a line) alignment rack. I missed the John Bean but got used to the Hunter eventually.
I wouldn’t bet on the floors keeping you from doing a Fred Flintstone. This is an east coast car with typical rust. Lots of it.
My first car was a 66 Impala, 283 2bbl w/Powerglide power steering, and AM radio, This one has some interesting options, mainly what appears to be factory dual exhaust, buckets and console, and tilt- wheel. The rear seat backs don’t look that bad, neither do the door panels. I was surprised the rear shelf looks good, that was really bad on mine. I’d preserve this one and enjoy it just the way it is. I hope it finds a good home, rather then being turned into some ridiculous hot rod.
My 1st as well Zen in 1972. Same power train. Camshaft went out after about a year. Had my 4 younger siblings w/me & family dog, an Irish Setter. Parents had to come rescue us. Wanted a 66 bc my Mother had bought 66 Belair 283 wagon new when Dad was on 1st tour of Vietnam. Still looked new in 72. Well taken care of.
Someone doesn’t know their old motors too well. … 80000 miles is right around when these NEED a rebuild. Yes there are the rare 200k mile motors but in general 70 to 100k they are puffing smoke
Engines…..motors are powered by electricity. I had a 79 delta 88 with 240k on it and it ran like a sewing machine. My buddy has a 98 Chevy pickup with 300k on it and it runs like new never cracked open.Have owned several 60’s cars with well over 100k and they ran like new and didn’t use much oil .It’s all in the maintenace.Sure valve guide seals needed replacement and a timing chain here and there but over all I never had problems with old high milers that were well maintained.
I was prepared for the worst, considering I used to live in New England.
This isn’t that bad, all things considering. The floor pans and frame look pretty good. The body’s scabby, but not to a terminal degree. I’d wanna fix it, and I wouldn’t be pulling up to valet parking with it. But I wouldn’t be afraid to leave it parked on the street either.
At up to $10 grand, I’d get it, go through the front end and brakes, and drive it. Do whatever I could to get the old car smell out of it. I’d take grief for the body for a couple of years, but I’d just drive it until I could scrape up the nickels for new quarters.
I think around 80,000 to a 100,000 miles to do rebuild was pretty much in the 1950 – 1961 years as my 1963 Chevy Impala had around 200,000 before she left us. That’s just my opinion though.
Looks like a decent driver and passing a state inspection means it is a driver! Brakes, suspension and key components must be safe and operational.
My Mom had a 66 Impala convertible. Green with a black top and a 396! She drove us to grade school in it. It became a throw away during the energy crisis and it was sold for a few hundred bucks. Would be cool to have now!
This car should not have passed Mass inspection with the quarter panel rust like it is! I was a licensed inspector in Mass for years and would not have put a sticker on it!
Good buy IMO if it isn’t bid much higher. In 1966 I learned to drive on one of these; although Dad’s was a four door Belair with the 283 and three on the tree, power nothing. But it was brand new and shined up nice. He let me use it for a lot of dates and proms. Great memories. I’d drive it just like it is and tackle the interior and rust problems as I went. Good car for an amateur restoration. And at the current bid you could get a professional to do the body work, paint and interior and have a great looking car. GLWTS.
I used to have a car like this in black we used to call the Widow maker as the car was from Northwest Ohio & you might fall thru the floor going down the road! The wiring was also effect im sure not with a little knowledge the ground was bad & the headlights would go out going down the road! The best thing about the car was if the sherrif pull you over you just dumped the beers thru the floor board can & all ! we were just legal age which at the time 18 years old so yeah not the smartest cast of characters! Drinking beer was frowned upon back then 1979 in small town rural USA , but not like today heaven forbid!
Better check the rear of the frame , salt belt versions of this rot out frequently.
For context, I bought a 66 Impala SS 396, 4spd with 9000 miles in August of 66′ for $2600 in perfect new condition. How times have changed.