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There’s not much information about this Ford offered by the seller beyond “stuck engine” in the ad for it here on craigslist, but for $2,500 it seems worth a look if you are in the Center City, Minnesota area. The seller also notes there is some rust on the fenders and the interior is in rough shape, but the frame is solid. This appears to a real, untouched, barn find at a reasonable asking price. There are lots of possibilities for this old truck from stock to custom. And if you’re interested, the seller also has a ’66 Thunderbird for $4,500 that’s in this barn as well! So would you go for the truck and leave with a T-Bird as well?
Wow, IDK. If you like the truck, you’re gonna love the T-bird. Truck sure qualifies as an official BF. I wonder if there is some kind of formula for how far the tires are sunk in the dirt/how long it’s been there? These being some of my favorite style Ford’s, even I would pass at this. These aren’t exactly rare, and I think there are STILL a bunch in barns across America, that just haven’t been found yet. This one’s pretty shot.
Can anyone read the year sticker on the licence plate?
Hi grant, it appears this style plate was introduced in 1968. Yellow for trucks, white for cars. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=593955&d=1276024217
As much as I love the older Ford trucks over the other makes I would pass on this rust bucket, way too much work to put back on the road even as a driver.
That’s not Patina that’s bird poop.
Poo-tina! :P
If this truck could be had cheep enough it would be worth restoring. The flat head V8 under the hood is enough to make it worth while. This truck needs to fall into the hands of a metal fabricator, the metal work looks pretty bad but still workable. I would like to share a few tricks on fixing rust holes in original sheet metal, some of you might already know these few tricks. First the body will have to come apart, you’d do this anyway if you were replacing whole parts. Ideally you’d want to have a TIG welder for this kind of work, what if you only have a MIG and your blowing holes in your patch work. My first trick is to get your self some small pc’s of 1/2″ thick aluminum, when you butt welding your patch clamp the aluminum to the back of your joint, it will not stick to your weld and will absorb the heat from the weld. Second trick is lay down only tack welds about 1″ apart, do not try to weld out each spacing but instead tax on the edge of your previous tac. You then do the same on all other tacks, repeat this until you close the gaps. Third trick cool down the metal with a wet rag after each set of tacks this will help stop distortion. Fourth trick weld on the inside of the fender while holding the aluminum on the outside of the fender you’ll get a better finish. Last trick keep your amps as low as possible on your machine and your argon cranked up to about a 50psi feed. Following this formula I could recondition a fender in about 4 hours.
Hi Mark. I’ve heard of using a thick piece of aluminum for a heat sink. Real good idea. Myself I prefer the tried and true method of gas-welding. I might tack a patch in with the stick welder and 6013 rod but finish with a small tip and butt-weld (possibly a miniscule bit of mild steel rod added if necessary). Just don’t get it too hot. You end up with a weld that you can beat on and bend just like the metal itself. So many people like MIG because it is fast but it also leaves a bead that’s way harder than the metal it’s attached to; a great place for a crack to form. I never could catch on to TIG welding but those who use it are happy. I guess to each his own.
Hi Geomechs what you say about the metal hardness is true, but for the average hobbyist oxy./acc. Torch welding is not practical. Firstly it takes an experienced hand to control the heat and keep the distortion to a minimum, not many people are good at it. Second most people are not comfortable with keeping acc. At there home, where as argon is inert. I find if you are extra picky with prep you minimize the need for to much hammer and dolly work. You sound to me like your an experienced tradesmen so your comfortable with this technique. truth is unless more young guys start getting there Hands on there own cars and do some of this work themselves fewer and fewer will be saved. They just won’t be able to afford to pay for someone else to do the work for them. The best thing an old guy with skills can do is mentor a young guy. I’m surprised Geomechs that you are not using TIG. As it is very similar to torch welding and your metallurgy is also more like torch welding it is also way easier to control your heat. Cheers.
Foot note to you Geomechs try the TIG. Again only this time dial back your amps until you find you sweet spot with the control pedal at full throttle. Start welding and never mind throttling your amps. Until you get to the end of your weld.
Hello again. I should give TIG another try. Sometimes you get so used to something that you think that nothing else matters. Kind of like teaching an old dog new tricks. Have fun with your projects.
You as well Geomechs,The TIG trick was tought to me by a fellow student in second year trade school. He worked in a shop that did exclusive TIG work,he frankly new more about TIG than the instructors. I was in the weld booth next to his and I was struggling, he told me to never mind this idea of throttling just lower the amps and board the peddle after that I had passing welds.
I bet the 4th gen birds nice
If this truck is complete it’s worth what they’re asking. I’d like to do up a ’48-’50 Ford pickup some time but I’ve still got lots of other projects in the works. I’m sure this one will be a good project for someone.
Somebody call Fred Sanford! ( I know it was a ’52 or whatever!)
This would be great with an EcoBoost 3.5L!