This Mustang has been stashed away for the last 20 years and although it needs work, it’ll be one heck of a muscle car when finished. It left the factory with the mighty 428 Cobra Jet engine! Find this big project here on eBay where the no reserve auction is ending soon!
Unfortunately, the original drivetrain is long gone. Luckily, the seller is including another 428 CJ and a 4-speed transmission. This engine was conservatively rated at 335 horsepower and 440 foot pounds of torque! That was enough to put this thing in the 100 mph club at the drag strip without any modifications.
The Acapulco Blue over black color combo will look handsome once this car is restored and put all back together. You’re going to have your work cut out for you though. The dash is a mess, the engine hasn’t been put together, and there’s some minor rust that needs repaired.
Still, this is one of the coolest Mustangs ever built. It was full of special race inspired touches like the blacked-out hood, shaker hood scoop, spoilers, and more. Obviously more than a few people would like to have it as evidenced by the very active bidding. It’ll be interesting to see what this project ends up selling for!
Curious why someone would remove the drivetrain, but leave the battery connected. Also, why was the heater box removed? Absolutely one of my dream cars!🤑
Someone removed the heater box because this appears to be a factory A/C car.
This is a non A/C car. A 69 with A/C would only have one sideways P shaped hole cut in the firewall for the A/C and heater core hoses to connect to. This car has the 2 seperate heater core hose holes with another hole for the blower motor. This car did not have factory A/C.
My thought is that it’s probably a recovered stolen that was picked up cheap at an auction,especially with the missing drive train & the destroyed dash? Now it’s just a carcass of a “used to be an R-Code 428 Cobra Jet: 1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1. What a crying shame. As a car guy,seeing this makes me totally sick.
Anybody here know the differences between the 427,428 and 429 Ford engines ?
427 is a short stroke big bore and the other two are long stroke truck engines.
The 429 had the shortest stroke of all three.
427 and 428 were FE engine’s, 429 was the 385 series’ engine , completely different.
I believe it was something to do with the rod caps
Such a shame when the original drivetrain is removed and missing. A non-number matching vehicle is decreased in value no matter the date correct parts that may go into its resurrection. This would easily be between 60K a 70K car when complete if number matching, however when complete the lack of original drive train will knock down the value by 15K at the very least.
Really? How do you prove that a correct date code engine didn’t come in a Mustang?
Had Ford started stamping engines in ’69? In the mid ’60s there was no such thing as a numbers matching Ford engine. They didn’t put VINs or other identifiers on the engines. Just a date code.
So as Jim22 is pointing out, if you have the right date code there may be no way to know that it isn’t the original engine.
– John
Correct GearHead … Our 70 Mach1 is stamped D0AE-L ( 0F4 ) down by the starter, which translates to 0 = 1970 F = July 4 = 4th day and our car was scheduled to be assembled June 26, 1970 but was rescheduled to a later date of 3 weeks because of some reason which may have been lack of a engine.
The federal government mandated that all vehicles have their engine and transmission VIN stamped starting in the 1968 model year. Ford followed those rules so the original engine in this, and any other 1969 Ford product, would have the VIN stamped on both the engine and transmission. I have a 1968 Cougar here that I am working on and it clearly has the VIN stamped on a flat pad on the back of the block, it’s a 302 in this case.
There also was a small aluminum tag that would be attached to the engine. The codes on this tag would also tie an engine to a specific car, especially if you were able to find the build sheet for the car. The recent BF posting for the yellow 69 Shelby GT-350 shows one of these tags in the ebay listing.
Yes he has another motor but that one needs to be assembled. Looks like who ever gets the car has just a little bit of work ahead of them before it turns the wheels again in anger.
Actually if I could have got this car before I bought our 70 Mach1 with the 351c / atuomatic and at it’s current price I would have been money ahead, too bad 13 years too late to the game.
I have several friends who had muscle cars stolen and partially stripped. This car is more complete than anything they got back. Everything that was easily unbolted or valuable was gone. If that is what happened with this car you would expect the interior, front clip including the hood and shaker as well as the deck lid and spoiler to be missing. Those items could have been removed in a few hours or less. This is more likely a stalled project that the seller has finally come to grips that he will never finish and is selling while the market is strong.
Well, let me see… No power train, no underside pics. Ummm… Nope. Not interested
Ford engineers probably giggled when they rated that 428 at 335 horsey’s which was less than the pulley turning passenger car version, and the same as the ’66 high performance 390 at 335. Either they were looking to play one over on the NHRA, or they were just a bunch of dummies.
Rated 335 for insurance purposes.Really more like 400 horses!
Nice that it survived mostly…..
to quote the seller “Overall a great project, and they aren’t making any more of these.” – Apparently he has never heard of dynacorn……….
Awesome find!! Always loved the ’69 Mustang’s good looks, much the same way as a ’69 Camaro (wide rear fenders). Somebody please, put this back together with the included engine & transmission & enjoy it while you’re still able and young enough to. Or, upgrade the running gear, add EFI and look for a correct motor and trans. Great find and enjoy it.
Got all excited just to find a big hole where it’s heart used to be.
So many of these project cars are used as donor cars and have such important parts removed. It is like a puzzle you have to solve, or, like any 70’s lotus, where the engineers leave about 20% of the construction/repairs/parts, etc. up to the buyer. A shop manual is obviously a must. Still, if it can be repaired and restored for less than an original and 100% complete mustang of the same class, it should be a lot less to buy and fix… maybe… I’m still waiting for a 70’s lambo countach to restore (not one of those fiero replicas) for less than $10,000. good luck on that one, right?