Projects don’t get much more open-ended than this 1939 Ford truck currently listed on Facebook Marketplace. Offered strictly as-is, this prewar Ford is not running and will need to be trailered, but it does come with a significant modification that may appeal to the right builder looking for a long-term custom or hot rod project. Thanks for the tip, Ted!
According to the seller, the truck is missing its engine and transmission, so there’s no expectation that it can be driven or even fired up in its current state. What is notable, however, is that the truck has already been fitted with a 1985 Chrysler Diplomat front subframe, which was originally installed to support a 318 engine. That detail alone tells you this isn’t a stock restoration candidate, but rather a vehicle that was clearly intended to become a modified street truck at some point in its life.
The presence of the later-model front subframe suggests upgrades to suspension geometry and braking were already part of the plan, saving a future owner from doing that work from scratch. Whether the next step is sourcing a Mopar small-block, adapting something different, or simply continuing down a custom path, that groundwork has already been laid.
The seller notes that the truck rolls and will load, which is an important practical detail for anyone planning to transport it home. There’s no mention of additional parts included, documentation, or a title, so prospective buyers will want to confirm those details directly before committing. As listed, this is very much a project core, not a complete vehicle.
Trucks from the late 1930s remain popular in the hot rod and custom world thanks to their simple construction, classic proportions, and wide aftermarket support. While some builders chase original flathead restorations, many others prefer starting with a solid old shell and adapting it to modern drivetrains and suspension components. This truck appears to fall squarely into the latter category.
Because it’s being sold as-is, expectations should be realistic. This is not a weekend flip or quick revival. Instead, it’s the kind of project that appeals to someone who enjoys planning, fabricating, and building at their own pace. For the right buyer, that freedom can be the biggest selling point.
If you’ve been searching for an early Ford truck to turn into a custom build—and you’re not afraid of starting from the ground up—this 1939 Ford could be a blank canvas waiting for the right vision.
Keep looking,,this thing is a hodge-podge of unusual parts, and not sure it can be saved. I do like the creative “rear fender stays” people think of, as those fenders would flap in the wind. These trucks are so rare, it should be restored as new, like this today, I doubt will have any interest.
Stop being soooo negitive Howard – pre war trucks are not easy to find in their own right. The stock frame is the same as the car from 1937 to 1940 and truck to 1941 in the 1/2 config. Like the Corvair front end sway which was popular in the late 60’s and early 70’s – then came the Mopar swapped front end with the torshin bars and disk brake. Like the Corvair they were a bolt in or weld in mostly retaining the right ride height…..unlike being clipped with a GM sub-frame….another option that usually gets the frame cut off like your….It’s pretty complete and doesn’t look all bad – must not have gotton abused on the farm too much.
Well, like Howard’s Diamond T, this is like shoving a knife in my back and turning the blade. I’ve tried for over 50 years to find a ’38 or ’39 Ford pickup and have been as close as 15 minutes in bringing one home.
It’s too bad the frame got butchered. I don’t have a lot of good to say for anyone who tries to adapt an independent front end to one of these. I might add that the builder would need to consult his DMV because a lot of places won’t allow a grafted front end. Or they will but the person cannot sell it.
If this one was to come my way I’d likely scrap the frame and get either a stock replacement or get a TCI or Fat Man rolling chassis and build to adopt a flathead V8. I’ve got a small selection of flatties and I would use one of them.
Three speed transmission would be likely but if I used a rolling chassis I could end up with a C-4 automatic.
This one, incidentally, while it may be listed as a ’39, has a ’38 grille. And it’s a deluxe grille at that. There were very few differences between the ’38 and ’39 trucks. Other than the grille (note: the ’38 grill is more complex; when I was a kid I could tell them apart in a blizzard but I had a lot of examples around me to teach me), the most glaring one is the brakes; the ’38 uses mechanicals while the ’39 uses juice.
1939 was the year the auto industry in general changed from the 3rd Brush generator / Cut-out relay, to a 2-Brush with a full voltage regulator. With a Ford it can be challenging as ’39 was the last year the fan was mounted on the generator armature shaft, making it only ONE year that a 2-brush generator with mounted fan was used.
Ford began its change from 21-stud to 24-stud heads in ’38; by ’39 it was 24 stud all the way. I have a serviceable 21 stud (81A) engine but I wouldn’t have any problems dropping in a 24 stud 59AB.
Overall, unless the missing parts are available for this unit, this one is pretty far gone. Of course, it would depend how far away it is. But it sure makes my heart skip a beat…
I sure couldn’t let an ad slip by without including at least one pic of a decent pickup of this vintage. I wouldn’t paint mine green but there’s a good chance that the lion’s share of them produced were green…
In regards to the grilles , did the trucks follow what the passenger cars did in that the ’39 Ford Deluxe grille was very similar to what the ’40 Standard grille looked like and probably followed suit in earlier years ?
The trucks, right through, pretty much retained the “Barrel Nose” for both ’38 and ’39. 1940 and ’41 started to get squirrely. ’40 and ’41 1/2 ton trucks kept the standard passenger car styling but the 3/4 ton and up went their own way. I’m not 100% sure but I think that even the 3/4 ton went to the parallel springs in 1940. 1942 was when the trucks all went to the same styling (except for the COE) for all conventional models; parallel springs throughout, and that “Waterfall grille.”
Yes 38 grille but 39 hood latch, 39 only metal door panel on drivers door.
That is an unusual choice for a front frame swap, probably done because he already had one. There are factory chassis that will fit these old trucks all over the place. While an after market chassis would be great, they are very expensive (IMO), and I’m not aware of one made for this particular truck. For a fraction of the price of an aftermarket chassis: The Ford Crown Vic wheelbase is only 2 or 3 inches longer than the ’39 and easily shortened. Can you imagine this old truck running and comfortably driving like a Crown Vic? Lots of guys also use a Ford ranger or Chevy S10 regular cab frame.
I’m aware that the ‘37 to ‘40 car chassis is almost the same. I guess the reason I looked into a custom rolling chassis was more for my ‘35.
My ‘35 came from a farm just west of where I was raised and it was typically used as a farm truck, right down to the grain door in the tailgate. The frame has been broken and poorly welded, pretty much necessitating replacement. I looked into a possible rolling chassis because just about everything is there. You won’t have the cross springs but I don’t think there would be a lot of complaints.
I looked into a complete chassis because you’ve got your brakes; your steering; your wheel hubs; essentially everything you would need to overhaul/replace anyway. Install a 9 inch carrier and you’re away.
Of course it’s not original. I guess, as I get older (73 this year) I’m starting to look at how much time I’ve got left to enjoy it when it’s done…
I agree with you on this truck. Would love to build this in a heartbeat, but closing in on 70 makes me think i may not complete it. Great truck body style, I hope someone will take it on.
This is the second time I have seen this front suspension option on a hot rod. I really don’t remember the car. (’39 Chevy maybe) But it was done be an ex-employee of mine who I trust quite highly. I don’t remember the car as all the discussion was about the front suspension. My experience with that setup was on the first issue Aspens and Volares. And was not positive. He agreed, but stated that once Chrysler had more experience with it, they made some very good changes when using it on the heavier cars like the Diolomat. He said that it is very easy to use because it is so compact that sticking right on the end of the chassis. It makes virtually any engine desired a snap to install. He was slightly skeptical himself when using it. That he wouldn’t have tried it, but he had a,spare frame incase it didn’t come out the way he wanted it to. His hot rod had an old school Hemi and they are not light. He was extremely happy with the outcome and was surprised on how well the car handled when done. He even ran the car at an auto cross down in New Mexico where he now lives. It looks a little strange on a vehicle where the body stops at front axle. But on something where the body work hides it. It works just fine. Front suspension, steering, brakes all in one package. What’s not to like?
Ain’t much here but a fair body for half the ask. Since you’re not going stock, I’d go with a 4bt Cummins and a 5sp. And since we’re dreamin’ here, maybe on a 4×4 Ranger/S10 chassis.
The Ranger chassis is plentiful. But the ’93-2000 Explorer chassis is a much better option. Particularly if going the 4X4 route. Within an inch or so of a Ranger wheelbase. ( standard, long bed, extended cab?) And it comes with power rack and pinion steering, 4 wheel disc brakes and an 8.8 rear diff. (Usually a 3 73 gear ratio for taller tires) plus it is stiffer. And if it came with the optional V8 (5.0) it had a,5 link rear suspension. JMHO!
This is not a project, it is a disaster!
Put a Chevy S10 frame under it and you’ll have a daily driver. Of course I’m opposed to seeing Chevy engines in a ford, but the chassis can be found cheap and there’s kits for that. A custom chassis with steering, axles, brakes is around $10,000.
Let do this let do that sorry it not worth restoring go find one that’s all ready restored days gone by
I built a ‘47 (first series) Chevy as a street rod using, I’ll wait for the thrashing, a Pacer front suspension. It was an easy install. It improved the ride and handling lots. I also put a 350 Chevy with a turbo 350 transmission, Ford 8” rear, chopped the top 3”. The truck I started with was much worse than this and turned out great. No restorer would have touched it for anything but parts. I built it in the early 90s and the person I sold it to many years later is still driving it. I drove it all over the east coast, in comfort. So, what I’m getting at is that this is a good start for someone building a streetrod.
This sheet metal needs to be saved.. And yes mount it on a modern chassis and enjoy your ride..