Listed as a “complete project,” this 1934 Ford five window coupe in Canoga Park, California somehow avoided hot-rod modifications, and the original Henry Ford steel comes with “pretty much everything,” according to the seller here on eBay. A later flathead V8 comes along for the ride. At least 11 bidders have raised the market value on this forgotten Ford beyond $12,500. So why do some old cars have a big square opening in the roof? EarlyFordV8 describes two reasons: stamping a contiguous roof strained the limits of early presses, so a rubberized canvas insert solved that problem while releasing heat, a bonus in warmer climates.
Outdoor storage and the open roof left surface rust everywhere, though not as devastating as a similar rust belt car. Plenty of solid metal shows promise, and few will question whether this car can become a running, driving beauty again.
Rough and rutted roads of the ’30s demanded tall skinny tires, but those elegant fenders call out for fat rubber. The low handle on the rear panel denotes a trunk as opposed to the optional rumble seat. Ford experts may confirm or refute this observation, but I believe the single tail light and lack of cowl lights make this a “standard” (not De Luxe) coupe. Though still a two-seater, the upgraded five window coupe boasted more cargo capacity with a “convenient parcel shelf,” as detailed by Lov2xlr8.
The never-modified firewall suggests no SBC (Small-Block Chevrolet) or other hot rod motor sullied this all-steel ’34. Pictures of the non-original but similar “flathead” V8 escaped the listing, suggesting rough condition. A conversion from mechanical brakes to hydraulic or “juice” brakes marks the only obvious modification from stock. Don’t think for a minute that the world has run out of interesting 1934 Fords; fabulous new specimens take the stage every year. How would you build this all steel five window coupe?
eBay pictures show two taillights. The blown up pictures don’t indicate anything but surface rust, no holes. That makes it a restorable car in my book. The ’33s and ’34s are in my book of “art on wheels”.
An all steel un cut roller gets my nod for a restoration. Keep the upgrades subtle and well blended. Hey put in the original style seat but style it for bucket seats. I love the feel of all Henry Steel. Flathead power is what it came with so regardless of the vintage if you don’t have the original go for it. Just please don’t put in some twisted fire breathing useless chunk of metal a Mild 302 would be acceptable. I restored a 29 Vickey with no drive train so I used the Pinto engine to stay more in the parallel universe of originality. Ran Good and suited the old bones.
Wrong front axle under this car – juice brakes shown, and the front spring is ahead of the axle (1940s stuff?). The next owner may have to chase down some correct parts.
Looks like they just took the entire front suspension from a ’40s car, as you said, just to get the front hydraulic brakes. Not going to match up real well with the front fenders.
When I was 15, a neighbor was selling a ’34 Ford 5 Window Coupe. But HIS was on a Jag chassis with triple-laced Borrani wire wheels, and it was chopped and channeled to sit low on that chassis too, but still with the hood and fenders and running boards, like it had been designed that way. He had an Olds 98 engine and trans in it. All the big work was done. ALL the detailing — interior, paint etc needed to be done. He wanted $350. I wanted it, but with a small block Chevy and a 4 speed. He offered to sell it as a roller for $250, and I could drop whatever I wanted in it.
My dad resolutely refused to go with that plan.
That would have been SOOOO cool.
Buy a stocker for $40k and drive it.
If it was a standard, the single tail light would have been on the left fender. It looks like there may be a tail light hole on the left rear fender. About the cowel lights, I thought all of the 33 and 34 Fords had them.
The holes for the cowel lights are there for this one. Gone just like everything else on the car.
Any guesses on the cost to correctly restore this ? Body and paint, glass, trim, upholstery, drive line, suspension, wheels, electrical, even at a modest labor rate of $80.00 per hr. How much to buy a #2 that you can drive without worrying about stone chips.
Having owned my 34 5window since 1963 ,I am a little spoiled as what might be considered a good car. However, its pretty easy on this one at its very best it is yard art. Even if you were the most talented builder, fabricator and restorer on the planet, why would you even consider this car, for anything. It is a total non starter.
Side Bar: There was no rubberized canvas in the tops. It was just some cheap oil cloth that Henry got for next to nothing.
drug an old want-to-be hot rod out of a field, found some parts and has some buddies up the Ebay price and bam, instant sale success. The time and money to make this any kind of driver is pretty over the top. Well maybe, Bad Chad could turn it into something strange and semi finished. Add $20,000 to the bid price and you are ready to enjoy, but add the same 20 to this and you still have a pile of rust. Just my thoughts.
junk
never modified firewall? all those cuts on the driver side are from a battery tray mod that used to happen to these poor cars. i had to repair the firewall in my 36 coupe that looked like it was done with an axe, a big hammer and a road sign.