Slumbering in Alabama is this 1968 Dodge Charger R/T, which has been parked under a shelter since 1999. The seller has opened bidding at $19K, with the option to Buy-It-Now for $21,000. The body is tired but the seller claims a power washing will improve its looks; there’s still significant floor rot to account for and a motor and transmission described as junk by the seller. Find the Charger here on eBay and located near Dadeville, Alabama.
The Charger still looks intimidating even when sitting on flat tires with faded paint and cloudy glass. The seller offers few details on what lead to it being parked long-term, but is perfectly frank that the current drivetrain is of little value. He does note that the original rear end is still with the car, and curiously calls it “unmolested.” For me, that would mean the original drivetrain – even if locked up – was still with the car.
I’m assuming by stating that the current engine and transmission aren’t worth much, he is conveying that they are non-matching units. Even a stuck-but-correct motor in a Charger R/T would increase the value significantly, so some clarification is needed here. It does sound like the floors are quite soft, as the seller says a “new in the box” floor pan is included with the sale. It’s hard to tell what condition the interior is in, but I can see at least one missing door panel.
No matter how much you power wash it, this Charger is going to need to full respray and possibly more, as the panel fit looks off and I’m sure there’s rust lurking elsewhere if the floors are shot. Still, Mopar enthusiasts do love genuine R/T cars, so I’m sure this one will find itself restored someday – but I’m not sure the current pricing makes it possible to give this Charger the rotisserie refresh it needs while not losing your shirt. Tell me, Mopar experts: is this rough R/T worthy of the asking price?
Wow, $20,000 and that’s just to start a project. I like ’68 Chargers a lot, but 20k could buy you any one of dozens of ready-to-drive classics. You’ve gotta want one of these badly to jump in here.
Not just classics, many brand new cars that would embarrass this thing in its heyday. Okay, 20K, might not be brand new, but pretty close. Add on 5K more and you do get brand new with a warranty and comfort features that were not even invented when this was new. If you are handy and it is a labor of love, maybe that is where you want to spend this money (and sooooo much more!) but otherwise, buy a new classic and DRIVE with pride and a big smile on your face.
Why do visit this website? It’s clearly not for people who prefer new cars or economically rationalise automotive passion. To me, and I presume most BF readers, new cars are boring because they present no challenge. Owning a new car requires no courage, engenuity or character.
Actually I like both new cars and old cars, and I’m here all the time. I don’t think that makes me any less of an enthusiast. When you start talking prices like this you start inviting comparisons to newer cars.
Anyway, to analyze this solely as a 1968 Charger, it needs too much work to save IMO, unless maybe we were in the mid 4 figures. These are the big hot thing right now, and this is an R/T, we think, but even taking that into account, the restoration cost on this are going to add up really fast.
There is no such thing as a new classic.
For 19k at least include a new in the box power washer…
I’ve heard that the FDA will soon approve a BJD (Barrett Jackson Disease) vaccine. While it will not work on those currently afflicted it does have a 53% success rate on those yet to be exposed.
Sure hunny you’re right, it’s time to sell that old Charger…
If I owned that and could sell it for $5,000 I would – in a heartbeat.
Or spend 50 grand and buy a near perfect example.Could you even do the body correctly for 30 grand ?
THANK YOU irocrobb !!!! Finally someone who knows (not that there aren’t many of you regulars on the site that know because I know there are) what it will take to make a car right! I can’t stand when there is a comment like “make it a nice driver for $15K”.
Forget the buy-in amount, this will be a $100K investment minimum, probably more if done correctly. When done, you might get back half.
Again I say, this is “one of those cars” that is ultimately worth restoring (maybe) and IF you can buy it correctly, put it away in a protected place and 20 years from now when it is really hard to find one, you might work a deal on it and make a buck.
Who buys these things? Are they Baby Boomers, or younger people buying into the hype? Not a good investment at all, but if you have the disposable funds, spend it as you wish, just don’t think you will make cash in the long run.
No, it’s not worth 20,000, but they’ll probably get it.
I’ve tried to deny it for years, but I think its time to throw in the the towel.
Unfortunately its worth what someone will pay for it.
So… apparently this heap is worth $20k.
Makes me wonder how this car ended up this way. Unlike most muscle cars, the 68-70 chargers received a slight resurgence (at least in interest) in the early 80’s, thanks to the Dukes. And while the increase in price wouldn’t hit until about 10 years ago… is there anyone that didn’t think these cars would be worth decent coin someday?
Yep, all those Mopar freaks will shell out the $$$ for old clapped out Mopars. Why? Because it an old clapped out Mopar!………LOL!
Ahhh, Keith it’s been a while and we haven’t missed your diluted anti-mopar comments. Lol maybe scrape the rust off of your imagination and try a different approach toward lowbrow humor.
yea if i was a beat up old chevelle you guys would be frothing at the mouth to get your paws on it! us mopar boys don’t care what you think go back to 1963-64 who ruled the drag strips dodge and plymouth! and the go to 69 and 70 nascar! guess who was the big dog to beat? why dodge and plymouth nuff said!
Chris gets my vote for best comment of 2019!
Jerry, although your claims are based in some fact and are great talking points. I don’t think your doing the Mopar faithful any favors with your dreadful grammar and painful lack of proper punctuation. Easy there wildman.
I have not been on here for too long, but I do see a lot of your comments. You seem kind of bitter about Mopars, did someone driving one steal your high school girlfriend or something?
Seriously is that an “LOL” moment? Like really, comments like that make you laugh out loud? Is it like a chuckle or an honest to goodness guffaw? I like the others don’t understand your dislike of Mopars or those that spend their $$$ on them. It’s like you’re a troll or as mentioned elsewhere someone driving a Mopar stole your steady.
Us “Mopar freaks” outnumber you Fiero freaks. Now, that is worth a LOL.
If this is “unmolested” what the heck does “molested” look like?
que the dueling banjos soundtrack …
The Jan/Feb 2019 Old Cars Price Guide (OCPG) lists the following:
1968 Charger R/T
2dHT: 6 – $2000; 5 – $6000; 4 – $10,000; 3 – $22,500; 2 – $35,000; 1 – $50,000
NOTE: Add 150% for 426/425 Hemi
This car is somewhere between a 6 and a 5. If it were something like a 4-door Coronet, it would be a 6 all day. However, any ’68 Charger is desirable and therefore restorable. That said, this is a #3 price for a #5 car at best. One of the things the market seems to have lost in the Barrett-Jackson era is the concept of ‘true value’. The idea that a #1 car is a rarity has been lost as people pay above #1 prices for what is likely a #2 or #3 car. Without the original engine and no indication that the engine was a Hemi, there would be no way to save this and retain any real value. Emotion will over rule logic in the buyer of this one, whatever the price, as even at a #5 price, there wouldn’t be room to restore to #1 and stay under $50K. They would be better off finding an over priced #2 with original drivetrain for $50K than sinking the money in this.
For reference OCPG defines the categories as follows:
1) EXCELLENT: Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95-plus point show car that is not driven.
In national show judging, a vehicle in number 1 condition is likely to win top honors in its class. In a sense, it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown, is stored in a climate-controlled facility. It is not
driven. There are few number 1 vehicles.
2) FINE: Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also, an extremely well-maintained original showing minimal wear.
Except for the closest inspection, a number 2 vehicle may appear as a number 1. The number 2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when competing against a number 1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800-1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours or simply for pleasure.
3) VERY GOOD: Completely operable original or “older restoration” showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable new old stock (NOS) parts. This is a “20 footer.” That is, from 20 feet away it may appear perfect. But as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside, we might detect wear on the driver’s seat, foot pedals and carpeting. The chrome trim, while still quite presentable, may have lost its sharp, mirror-like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicles seen at car shows are in number 3 condition.
4) GOOD: A drivable vehicle needing no, or only minor work to be functional. Also, a deteriorated restoration or a poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be “excellent,” but the vehicle is mostly usable “as is.”
This is a driver. It may be in the process of restoration or its owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away, there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help.
5) RESTORABLE: Needs complete restoration of body, chassis and interior. May or may not be running, but isn’t weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts. This car needs everything. It may not be operable, but it is essentially all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all. While presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won’t have him doing a lot of chasing for missing parts.
6) PARTS CAR: May or may not be running, but is weathered, wrecked and/or stripped to the point of being useful primarily for parts.This is an incomplete or greatly deteriorated, perhaps rusty vehicle that has value only as a parts
donor for other restoration projects.
I agree. I looked at buying a 70 Charger RT/SE project car. The guy wanted $13,000 and it didn’t have the original drive train but came with a 1970 motor and trans. Was originally a 440/4sp car. Anyway shot a ton of photos and sent them to Mark Worman, the guy that restores Mopars and has the show Graveyard Cars. He gave me an estimate of 90-100 thousand on the restoration and it would take 4-5 years before I’d get the car back. Even he advised with the market, unless I didn’t care about the money or if the car had some long time sentimental value, just to save the money and buy one that was done for $50k. Having him do the restoration would have given me the looks of #1 condition car but without the original drivetrain it always would be worth half, or less, the cost of the restoration.
Thanks for the info. His shop does great work, so was wondering what the charge would be for a restoration. I’m not surprised at that amount, nor the time quoted to do the job.
I’m wondering what the restoration price and timing will be for the cars that he is going to sell via Graveyard Motorz.
Thanks Walrus for the info. I’d print it out and use if I was selling or buying. Between these guys with the $$$$ in their eyes and those who haven’t got a clue what it takes to do a resto, sure does make u wonder what they are thinking, The BJD vaccine should be mixed with a tetanus shot. Good luck on this ruffian.
Cheeers
GPC
“Full respray needed, panel fit issues, possible rust lurking elsewhere.” Now how did you draw those conclusions?
I was thinking the same thing. There would be at least 200 steps required in the restoration process before this car could even be called a “driver”…
I, for one, really want one of these. Just not for that price.
It’s not what it will get here – it’s what it will bring overseas.
That’s only true for lesser cars. The overseas market is generally better for cars like, say a 1965 Fury with a 318 than for a car like this. Superior high dollar rare muscle is a basically non-existant overseas market. Overseas pays higher than would be expected here for cars that are nice but maybe not as valuable domestically. They don’t have the resources to restore and generally prefer unmolested originals to restorations or resto-mods.
Wow, I tried to make this 68 feel at home. Turns out it is Not the exact same car-color-air-wood wheel I bought new in 68.
The owner sent me the serial and turns out not my oldie.
Otherwise we were leavin in the morning before anyone beat us to it.
Some say why would you pay that for it at that $. Maybe because any amount wiil be paid to get it back.
So, still searchin for that one that got away.
RT, 68, 440, last 6 on mine were 426994. Any one have it?
Just removed Barn Finds from my Facebook page I just don’t think it is worth paying for on Facebook
Had one of these new and would not want it again new or otherwise. Not worth restoring to me. Was a real POS that cost me a lot of money and time. Loved it for a while (Sounded great sucking air getting up to freeway speed and the acceleration…) but then it started to cost me money. Burned in the neighborhood of a quart of oil /500 miles coating the back of the car with a black film and had the dealer tell me it was normal. Had to replace the factory carburetors as the carbs for that year and the factory were all defective. The plate between the carb and the manifold warped because it ran so hot causing it to whistle and leak air. Changing the front plugs was apparently painful for the poor mechanic I used. The dipstick tube lay ON THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD(!) and would burn whoever touched severely taking skin with it. Said dipstick tube broke off allowing oil to spray over and out of the engine. I could go on but traded it for a new ’74 Gran Torino but that’s another story. At least that one waited for 100,000 miles before self-destructing.
Sorry for going on but had to get it off my chest. Every body have a good day!
Thanks for the account of what it was like to own one of these new, David. These cars and so many others are lusted after by generations of us and held up on a pedestal. Now these cars are commanding serious amounts of money with many thousands left to be poured into them. It’s refreshing to hear that once upon a time, they were just domestic, mass produced cars with warts and flaws.