So let’s face it, if you want a Dodge Challenger you typically need deep pockets and a strong mind to spend the kind of money you need to purchase one. There are not many affordable projects that aren’t ready to break in two from the state of rust they suffer from. This is a running driving project at a bargain price. This 1973 model isn’t the most beautiful, but its solid and it runs and drives for $7,800!! Find it here on craigslist out of Minneapolis, Minnesota.
This challenger has had some recent extensive work and looks to be a solid car. The engine is a 360 and is backed by a 904 transmission. There are some goodies spread throughout the engine of this Challenger. The engine looks clean and tidy, as well as the bay, giving some idea of the owner’s work ethic for this classic Mopar.
The exterior is clean and straight. There is a mismatched door on the passenger side and some spray paint on the rear lower quarter panels. But for those of you who know Mopars, know that this is nothing. These cars are usually in much worse condition than what this car is in. There appears to be no major rust or dents on this challenger although we wonder about the trunk floor and the underbody. We keep trying to come up with reasons why we shouldn’t buy this car, but it’s hard to talk ourselves out of it. You just don’t find clean drivable Challengers or Cuda’s. This car lacks its original drive train, so it would be fun to do whatever you wanted with this blank canvas Challenger.
We certainly appreciate the new Challenger, but you just plain cannot beat the original car. This Challenger having a huge bang for the buck in the Mopar world makes this car so tempting. A running and driving Challenger for less than $10,000 that isn’t a rusty basket case is something that has become very rare. Would you bring home this Mopar? If you did, what would you do with this classic Challenger?
The big dollar E bodies are the ’70s and ’71s, and of those, only the big block or 340 cars are really worth the $$. Slant six or 318 versions are much cheaper. ’72s are the cutoff, with ’73s-’74s being the red headed step children. But you’ll never convince a seller of a ’74 that he doesn’t have a half-million dollar car like the ones on Barrett Jackson.
Wish I had a Willy’s Jeep setting in my driveway.
I could see myself cruising down the road in that.
Nice marketing strategy showing the car cruising down the highway.
FINALLY, an affordable Challenger. On the east coast here, you could add a 1 to that number. ( which I’m sure someone will do) Does Minneapolis have “air quality” alerts? I like what appears to be a ’62 Comet S-22 next to it. Looks like a great deal.
No mention of suspension and brake work so add $3K there. We don’t see interior. Assume another $3-5K. Need to weld in trunk sheet metal and do other heavy body work. Hood?. All that’s going to be $10K. Car is only worth $25K -$30K when done. You can find finished matching # 318s and 340s for that kind of money at much lower risk as long as you are happy with a ’72-’73. It’s the 70-71’s that typically bring higher $$.
Come on baby, let me see those Daisy’s – look at that girl with them Daisy Dukes on!
“No mention of suspension and brake work so add $3K there.” – I have all MOOG parts at about $300.00 and all good brakes stuff at about $300.00….oh sorry I do all my own work…but pretty sure I can find a good mechanic that will do all this for under a $1000.00 in labor. Do I need to go on ?
Yes you need to go on. Likely axle seals, wheel bearings, quite likely other additional parts and labor. Your $1,600 is way optimistic. Alignment? Oh that must be free.
Go ahead and gamble. I’ve done these. My rule of thumb is: mentally add $5K more to the cost than you think it would be all in. If you are still financially OK it is worth the shot. If not, walk away.