More often than not, it’s the second-generation examples that seem to get most of the praise and attention among fans of the Dodge Charger. That’s understandable, as the 1968 through 1970 models are among the most fondly remembered offerings from the Golden Age of muscle cars. However, the earlier Charger is also a good-looking machine, and it’s typically a lot more affordable than those that came shortly after. This first-year model here on Craigslist is a project, but for $7,995, it’s probably within reach of many Mopar enthusiasts searching for a B-Body to restore. If you’d like to go see this one in person, its location is in Portland, Oregon, and bring along a trailer in case you and the seller can work out a deal. We also want to thank Barn Finds reader Curvette for sending us the tip here!
The seller tells us he’s owned this Charger for many years, but also mentions that it’s been stored and sitting for a long time, plus is upfront in letting potential buyers know that a complete restoration is needed. The body is described as having dents, rust, and other imperfections, but I wouldn’t say it’s too much worse than most unrestored Chargers from this period that appear in the marketplace. One detail that’s important to note here is the wheels and tires, as the ones shown in the photo are not included with the sale. Instead, steel rollers with different skins will be provided, which will still allow the car to roll onto a hauler.
A few fun and functional items can be found inside the ’66 Charger, including a console that extends almost all the way from front to back. There are also buckets in the rear, which fold down to provide some extra storage space, thanks to the fastback design. Another nice feature is the instrument panel, which provides a beautiful light-green colored illumination at night. It’s unknown if the gauges are all still functioning, but at least they are present, and can hopefully be brought back to life if needed. A new floor pan will also be required before this one’s ready for replacement carpeting.
Not much specific information is provided regarding the mechanics, other than that the engine is a small block V8 and the transmission is automatic. The seller states that he doesn’t know why the motor isn’t running or its overall condition, so it’ll probably be in order to tear it down for a rebuild, or swap it for something larger under the hood. All things considered, are you seeing this 1966 Dodge Charger as worthwhile project material?
A fresh 383, 3 years and about $60K should get you rolling here!
Needs tons of work (money) to be a nice street machine. You never see this generation charger so it would probably be pretty unique at cars and coffee.
When I was a teenager my older brother and I found one we liked but we could not come up with the 600 dollars I have that much in my pocket most of the time now
On top of the fact that this car needs pretty much everything and yet the seller is still asking $8,000, whatever is spent on the restoration still won’t result in a numbers-matching car, as that engine doesn’t belong there. That’s an LA-block engine of unknown displacement (but almost certainly a 318) and vintage, and the only LA engine in existence in ’66 was the 273, which would have been red. The 273 was offered in the Coronet in ’66, but I’m not sure that they were available in a Charger. A 1966 318 would have been a Poly (A-block) engine.
This classic will need to be stripped down – taken apart and rebuilt from the body/frame up – with most likely a new or rebuilt engine – (as the one that’s in it is probably froze-up) – preferably a 383 / 4brl as many of them came with, a rebuilt torqueflite transmission and the rear end rebuilt as well – along with a full brake-job and fuel / vacuum lines replaced. And then the body and interior work – and there’s a lot of it to be done. What’s most interesting about this Charger is the visible dash is in excellent shape for a car that has been used and abused and put up wet.
“Put up wet” is the operative term: with all the rust spots under the hood and most telling – the dash framework – this Charger has been under water – probably for a while before being pulled and dried out. So – to restore it – there is no getting around it being completely stripped down to its bones and built back from there — and that means the asking price is a bit too steep. I doubt it will bring $8K – and if that price is firm, the owner will probably have it for a while longer. — A full and proper restore will take this classic to the top of the car shows – and I hope it gets there.
Very doubtful its ever been underwater ; I dont know why so many people on this site assume a cars been underwater because of interior rust – rust forms on the interior because of any moisture getting inside the car , humidity due to poor storage , a bad window seal, a door glass left partly rolled down over the course of the years its been sitting will all cause metal parts to rust. in this car I’d say the rusted floors allowed moisture to get into the drivers compartment .
Are you kidding me? — I’ve pulled cars out of fields that were there for years in the weather with NO interior or engine compartment rusting like with this car. — I’ve cabbaged a LOT of parts off of cars in junkyards – where they tell you where it’s located and you have to go get the part and bring it back to the front desk to pay for it. These cars were all setting out in the weather for years in the same spot. I’ve never opened up a hood in those junkyards and found rust spots all over the place in the engine compartment. —
I’ve spent time on my back taking parts out from under dashboards and NEVER found one with ANY rust spots “under” the dash – in cars that had broken windows too. I spent most of a day taking out a dashboard – and finally got it out – and it had no rust spots anywhere – and that was an English sports car with a ripped convertible roof. I’ve seen plenty of trunks with rust due to the trunk lid seal being gone and water sitting in it for years, but not with trunks with intact weather seals. Floor panels rust from the bottom up – not from the top down – unless the car has been underwater.
Atmospheric moisture and condensation is not enough to rust out any part of a car – period. — If it was – ALL of our cars would be rusting out from under us as we drive them – particularly where the AC condensation collects and drips to the ground. — I think you’ve been taken for a ride more than a few times – being told the rust was due to “atmospheric moisture” when in fact it was due to the car being under water for a while at one time. You simply do NOT get this many rust spots where they should not be unless the car was submerged under water for a while at one time. I know, because I’ve seen plenty of cars that were pulled from rivers and lakes – totaled by the insurance company and then sat in junk yards and they all have rust – like this one – where the other junks don’t. This car has most definitely suffered severe water damage, and all who are interested in it should be aware of that.
Youve obviously never been on the East Coast ; cars sitting in a field with glass knocked out will be rusted thoroughly in no time . my first car was a ten year old Falcon with rusted out floors, and all the heavy chrome bits like the horn ring has major blisters and the dash had spots of rust starting and that was a driving car ! I’ve pulled cars from backyards where the cars have literally broken in half from rust . and trunks can and will rust out from the inside ; water intrusion due to driving with rusted out rear wheel wells and trunk floors will end up rusting trunks . Look at the pics at Old Car City – there are cars there with just a window open or broken and the interior is a rusted mess.
When I was heavy into my hobby of rebuilding cars, I lived in South Carolina – where it rains a lot and the humidity is stifling most of the year – so a LOT of moisture in the air all the time – and it was there in the junkyards where I sourced most of my parts for cars, and never saw any junk cars with as much rust as this car has unless it was one that was pulled out of a lake or river.
Maybe further up the coast – you guys still have acid rain, which may account for your cars rusting out like spraying acetone on styrofoam, or maybe you guys salt your roads year round, but atmospheric moisture doing that kind of damage – Nope. — Trunks rusting out due to rear wheel wells rusting out and filling the trunk with water??? — LOL – WOW!!! I’ve never seen a car that was still in one piece and driveable by the time the wheel wells rusted out so much the trunk became a tadpole pool! — LOL!!! — Do you guys just keep driving your cars after the front end and doors have completely rusted out and fallen off too? — In most “other places” – by the time a car is nothing but a bunch of big rust holes – it’s long ago been retired to the crusher – no one is still driving them and filling their trunks with water coming through rusted out wheel wells. — What other cute ridiculous anecdotes do you have about rust in cars?
Plenty – if you’ve never been in a snow belt state, you have no idea of rust – and cars sitting with windows open or missing will rust out floors and anything that wasn’t painted heavily in no time, and the inside of cars interiors are usually not painted heavily, and things like the carpeting acts like a sponge and holds water- so yes, they car rust out from top to bottom – Have you seen some of the rusty cars on this site ? Up here people did and do drive with huge rust holes in their cars , there are many stories of people hitting puddles in the rain and having water spray them , I’ve seen cars with holes drilled into the trunk because water would seep in the rear window seals and fill the spare tire well with water .I recently welded in a patch panel on the front floor of my neighbors ranger -the culprit ? the front windshield seal leaked, dripping water onto the front carpet -again, rotted from the inside out. cars that have the notorious blue tarps left on the get massive damage due to humidity build up. all of this happens a lot more than cars involved in floods
My Uncle (who really was a,rocket scientists) covered his 1966 Newport with a “breathable” tarp and the car sat in an always in the shade carport. And in a,very humid part of northern California. He ended up giving me the car. The paint was so soft you could easily dig your fingernail into it. It was months in the Nevada sun before it hardened back to a point where the paint could be buffed to a,very nice gleam. Luckily no other rust or corrosion issues with the car. It was a,regular at Hot August Nights for several years.
…”all of this happens a lot more than cars involved in floods”..
Well — ole bone – you just told everyone loud and clear across this site that if a classic car from an area north of the Mason Dixon line and east of the Appalachians comes up for sale to stay completely away from it! I’m sure all those who live there trying to sell their classics really appreciate you sharing your “learned” expertise.
I’ll certainly keep that in mind. — You poor souls up there — whose cars are just flaking apart at the seams as you drive them – taking a shower when you hit a puddle while carrying around a tide pool in your trunk from the big holes in your rear wheel wells. That must be a bonus in winter – hauling a few inches of ice in the trunk to give you better traction on ice and snow. — All your used car lots must be piles of rust flakes with four tires peaking out from under them. Such a sad sack state of owning cars up there.
For the rest of reality – cars don’t rust out like that from normal use and atmospheric moisture. — I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ – a rare survivor – a two-door – which is one of the last Cherokee XJ’s to be made. I bought it when it came off-lease in 2004 and have had it ever since. It’s a nice driver, but it excels off-road with it’s patented 4WD system – and I’ve had it out on almost every type terrain available in the US – through many creeks, river crossings and a lot of sticky gooey mud – beside impressive rock climbing. The only thing that can outperform it is the Wrangler Rubicon, but the Wrangler lacks the daily driver comfort and performance of the late great Cherokee XJ.
And the point here is: My Cherokee is rust-free – been through every nasty environmental hazard a vehicle could handle – including salted-sand winter roads – AND – the secret IS: I have always pressure-washed it from top to the undercarriage after each environmentally-hazardous use, so it still looks as close to new as possible for a car with its mileage. Everyone can do that – it really doesn’t take that much effort to keep your car from developing the rust-bug.
But – from what you so continuously and adamantly claim about cars in the northeast – no one there cares at all about protecting their investment in their car – the second largest investment most people make besides their home, which says a lot more about the people than it does about the cars that they drive around until they are rust-buckets – which according to you – must be occurring even before the car loan is paid-off. – For the rest of us outside your area – we don’t have that major problem – even with the junks exposed to the environment for decades in junk yards. — So sad for you and everyone living in that area. — So, keep the bondo sealed and pliable.
Also something for all car owners to keep in mind: Car tarps – even those that are ventilated are meant to protect cars from the damaging effects of the sun’s UV rays – particularly the UV-vulnerable dash-pads. They are meant to be used in mostly-sunny areas when a car has to be stored outside – like the southwest, etc, where both the infrared and UV radiation from the sun is brutal. They are NOT meant to be used in high humidity mostly rainy areas – as they will indeed trap moisture and keep it there for a long time – and the big bugga-boo there is the growth of mold, that will soften paint as noted by Wayne (it hardened back when exposed to the sun long enough to kill the mold), and eat away at the rubber / polypropylene seals as well as become embedded in the fabrics of the interior, which then becomes a huge mess to get rid of. Mold acts as a sponge to hold moisture on an area for long periods of time – that prolongs the molds’ life and activity of eating your car, and promoting rust.
Storing cars outside in a damp rainy area is best done with a platform of asphalt or concrete and an open-air canvas free-standing tent cover that comes down far enough on the all sides to shield from the car from wind damage. This will keep excessive moisture from building up around the car and staying there for long periods of time. A permanent metal carport with sides will do the same thing, but the tent carport serves the purpose just as well and is a lot less expensive. Also, it’s best to not build the carport in a shady area, but in a spot that gets sunshine most of the day. The canvas will do just fine protecting the car from sun’s UV damage. — So – in higher humidity rainy areas – do not put your outside car under a car tarp – not even one advertised as ventilated. It will indeed damage your car over the long term.
A rolling shell that needs a rebuild even before any mechanical work starts. If going to that much effort. You might as well source a 426 Hemi for the build. THEN, you would have a proper Mopar Charger. On the other hand, you may have so much invested in the body that all you can afford is a 225 leaning tower of power!
ok here we have another clown that starts off with the wheels and tires in the pics don’t come with the car. ok fine then why not put the tire/wheels that go with on then take your pics. this car needs a boat load of cash body parts are not really reproduced there are some. you know that the electro luminary dash lights need work. said and done close to 80-100k. not as popular as second gens. good luck with all that
Phil, correct, 318 poly was the 318 in ’66. ’67 brought the LA 318,383, 440, and the 426. Dropped the 361 for ’67
The owner ought to give this car to the next young person that will honestly take it on as a true restoration. Because it sure as hell isn’t worth what he is asking for it.
It’s cool, but it ain’t that Kool!
After dealing with insurance companies with flood damage. (And they see more than anyone else) pull both front door cards. That is where you can see the water line. If it’s above the bottom of the dash, it’s a total. For some cars, it’s above the door sill/below the seat bottom. As some cars have some engine/body control units under the seat area. (Some Mercedes for example) And if you have ever tried to repair electrical that has been under water in a city environment, flood water is mixed with sewer water. Connections are already corrosion coated. Better off with a new harness incase the wire length is extended mid-run.
Just sayin’ been there, done that and don’t desire the “T” shirt or coffee mug.
I remember well when these first came out. I thought they were incredibly sexy cars. Both my Spanish teacher and Music teachers bought new ones the first year. Both were black over black. I would flip out over them every time I was at recess.
My Dad had a 66 Charger. We’d go see G’Ma and G’Pa and I’d be in the back staring up at the stars on the way home! That fastback window was immense. His had the 318 you guys are talking about. I’m tempted to buy this one but it’s cuz the heart is tugging. The rust is extensive and we all know, you just keep finding more and more. The seller is severely lacking in basic information about the car. I’m not traveling cross country based on the scant info.
Al Dee, I agree. I bought a new Honda Civic in 1978 and lived in the Salt belt. (Northern Illinois) Everyspring I would put the car up on the lift and spent 2 hours rinsing out every place that could possibly trap any dirt/moisture. Several years later my car was recalled for rust issues. The service manager (who I had known for many years) called me with complete disbelief. The car underneath was just like new. It was the only one he had seen that did not need any repairs. In the years that followed I sold the car to a friend that did not have access to a lift and was not able to continue the annual bath. And the car suffered badly. But still lasted way longer than most Civics.
So in conclusion on this subject of body rust and prevention. It is possible to protect vehicles from terminal tin worm. (Many times just flushing out of drain holes once a year. But in many cases, manufacturers don’t do a good job and most owners won’t take the time, or realize what is required. Or just don’t care because of planned vehicle turn over. (5 years from now it is someone else’s issue) On the other hand. I had a close friend who bought a new Fiat 124 spider. He was an vehicle engineer and was aware of the need to protect his new car. He disassembled the interior and took the car to Ziebart and instructed them on doing the job correctly. And then proceeded to return 3 additional times until he was satisfied. He then spent alot of time making sure that drain holes were clear and also attacking other areas that could be an issue. The car never saw winter driving or rain. It was always garage in Northern Illinois. (Humid climate) It still rusted! Good old Italian steel!