This no reserve listing for a nicely aged 1960 Triumph TR3 roadster ends on Thursday, and bidding seems reasonable at the moment. The seller claims it has absolutely no rust despite residing in Pennsylvania, and that it is being offered as part of an estate wind-down on behalf of the original, 97-year-old owner who bought it in Nevada while on active duty in the military. Even more amazing? It’s been in storage since the 1970s and the seller is firm in his belief that you don’t even need to repair the floors – it’s that clean underneath. Find it here on eBay where bidding is just over $6,500 at the moment.
The panels do look incredibly straight without even any major dings to report. I’m so accustomed to these showing rust in the lower sills or rear quarters that my first instinct is to believe that the car has been quickly re-sprayed red rather than that it’s a true survivor. The TR3 shows well in almost all areas, right down to the original tool kit still being with the car. As the seller points out, if you’re looking for a TR3 to gently restore, this is the kind of specimen you want to start with. You will have to source a new top, but the frame is still there. All four hubcaps are present, and even the chrome still looks presentable on the bumperettes.
The interior needs cleaning up, and this is where I’d focus the bulk of my attention and money. I really wouldn’t mess with the exterior, as it’s too rare to find one of these this original. I would, however, spring for an upholstery kit, replacement door panels, and clean up the dash. I might be a tad sacrilegious and spring for an aftermarket but period-correct wood steering wheel, too. The seller notes that with a battery hooked up, the lights still come on and that the dash gauges and backlighting still work. You just don’t see cars survive that well that have been left in storage since the early 70s! The windshield is said to be crack-free.
The engine is still free and has clean oil in it, and the seller has been told the 46,660 miles are original. However, the starter spins but will not engage, so it hasn’t been fired up at present. The seller does believe, however, that it will come back to life with ease, and I have no real reason to doubt him with a car in this sort of condition. Incredibly, even the battery box is rust-free. When looking for an affordable project, it’s rare to find this combination of pedigree and condition, and if bidding stays below or right around $10K (wishful thinking), someone is walking away with likely one of the best surviving TR3s on the market right now.
I started working in a gas station when I was 15, before I could legally drive. I pumped gas and helped out in the service bays. The first car I worked on was a TR3, I replaced the clutch slave cylinder. That was 53 years ago, and at it today!
I would remove that puny engine and drop in a LS with an auto trans put big hoops on it with some craggers oh sorry I thought I was on barn finds. I would get it running and drive it just the way lucas wired it so fun
I know very little about these, but if it spins freely and has electricity, why not push start it? Maybe if it ran a little it would free up the springs in the starter or whatever. I wish I understood small European sports cars more. They seem like a lot of fun. A guy I worked with in the early 90s had several triumphs. TR3s, and TR5s I think. He would always have one or two running and the others in some sort of repair. Mainly electrical. He ran a lot of hot wires around the cars bypassing circuits. Seemed like a cool hobby when he was buying them for $500 each
This looks fun and solid, I could see it being a decent ‘first’ project if the numbers don’t go too high.
….or just use the included crank?
I’ve done that a few times. Still have the original radiator with the crank hole and the crank in the spare tire compartment. Just in case. I think it was the last car with a crank start option and the first production car with Disc Brakes.
The end of the starter drive has rubber in it which perishes over time. This part is available but removing the starter is a labor of love and hate as it will not go out the bottom of the car and one of the bolts has to be accessed from the foot well, requiring the removal of the trans tunnel. The nut on that bolt is accessed from the engine compartment and the second bolt is accessed from beneath the car. As I recall, I also had to remove the carbs to allow me to withdraw the starter, about 10 lbs worth. I now have a high torque Jap job.
Unless something has changed, I’d be wary of changing out the steering wheel for a fancy wood wheel. As of a few years ago, there was no way to attach the groovy horn/turn signal hub to any of the aftermarket wood wheels. You have to bodge together a 3-way switch somewhere.
From the pic this one doesn’t appear to have cracks. The key is to NEVER use the wheel to help haul my old butt out of that low seat. And don’t grab the windscreen either. Gotta use the cowl for help.
There are some wood rim steering wheels that let you use the original horn push and turn signal (Trafficator). But the last one I saw was over $800. About 15 years ago The Roadster Factory had reproductions steering wheels made for around $175. and I bought one. Still holding up well.
$5 says it starts in the first or second try, once they get the old fuel out, check the points and a spray of starter fluid in those 1 3/4 inch SUs. Ferguson Tractor based engine, tough as nails design. My Tr is a ’62 TR3B bought it in ’67 for $175. I’m on my 3rd engine rebuild for the same block. These engines are bulldog tough and easy to rebuild, pretty much forever over and over again.
New wet sleeve cylinders and matched piston sets are available in several sizes, from 83mm to 89mm. Cool looking little British Car with cut down doors that’ll terrify your wife or girlfriend and delight your kids. It can hold a steady 70+ mph on the Interstates all day long. All at 30mpg. (36+ if it has OD.)
Moss Motors, The Roadster Factory, Rimmer Bros (UK) and several others, specialize in parts and accessories for these, including most body panels. The cylinder head can take a simple cleaning cut, or up to .095 off to drive the compression up to 11+ to 1 and a mild to crazy cams are out there now for fun and games. Isky still even stocks complete competition grade valve train sets for them.
You’re right about the engine being easy to rebuild. This is why Mr Ferguson went to Standard-Triumph to purchase the already existing Vanguard engine for his tractors because he envisioned farmers repairing and rebuilding them themselves. The engine was a car engine first and a tractor engine second. and was used, in varying displacements up until the end of the TR4A line. You CAN break them but you really have to abuse, neglect and be unkind to them. My last terrified passenger was a couple of years ago, matching the route number on the speedo (I-95), at night, overtaking semis. He won’t ride with me anymore (wimp). I average 26 mpg overall and drive it like it was intended to be driven, funly! (Is that a word? if not, it should be.)
Tough! I’ve pulled out a TR4 engine with a crankshaft snapped clean through in the middle, right under the center main bearing. It was running fine, oil pressure a little on the low side, but started, ran and drove OK. Didn’t even know it was broke until I pulled up on both ends to lift it out and it was two pieces.
I just finished a four and a half year driveway restoration of a basket case 58 TR3. Parts were not a problem, both new and used. Mine is all original except for Michelin steel belted tires. 70 mph is easy with OD and 100 is attainable and feels stable. The only problem is arriving and departing anywhere requires ten minutes of conversation with folks taking pictures and telling stories of neighbors, uncles or ex-boyfriends who had one and their subsequent fond memories.
The starter drive comes in from the backside of the flywheel. They usually get hung up with clutch dust. Clean off the shaft and it should be good to go.
In my humble opinion this is one of the ugliest cars I have ever seen. And I have been seeing them for 40 odd years.
Those misplaced headlights and the lowered door lines, just does not look right to me.
That’s OK, some people just like Toyota Camrys. We understand.
Dickie,
If your opinion were humble, you’d not post it.
This is a really cool car. Personally I love the unusual style. But i don’t think i would fit in it very well.
We use a 1957 TR3 for Sunday drives at the Museum. I’ve taken lots of folks for rides who have never been in any car like it and they all love it! There is life beyond their Toyotas!
Wonder if the radiator cap is rated at the required 4 lb? Dash color – the lightest color trim in 1960 was Silverstone grey. So either this dash was dyed or extremely faded – yet it had been in storage since the 70s???
Dickie probably didn’t like the XK120, 140, 150 either.
Meh! No accounting taste. I’ve heard some people actually like Liver & Onions.