Although we aren’t treated to a view of it’s front end (why, oh why do people try to sell a car without posting a complete set of pictures?), it appears that this ID suffered a small fender bender in the rear, and for some reason was taken off the road at that point. It’s for sale here on craigslist in Phoenix, Arizona, for $2,300 with a bill of sale or $2,600 with a clear title (I’d take the clear title!).
I think this picture was posted to show the damage, but I’m not completely sure. There certainly seems to be some panel misalignment, but remember, the fenders easily remove from these cars, so maybe they weren’t installed properly and the damage is in the front? Who knows–it would have been nice for the seller to show us! They have added four new tires to replace the dry-rotten ones that were on the car, and assert that the body shell is “98-99% rust free.”
The ID was introduced two years after the remarkable DS as a less-expensive version of the car, lacking the DS’s power steering and having a regular manual transmission rather than the hydraulically controlled system. We can also see what looks like a box of brake components on the floor–perhaps some necessary work, or at least some planned maintenance before the car was taken off the road? You’ll never mistake that single spoke steering wheel for any other car’s, will you!
The ID19 had a 1911 cc four cylinder engine making less than 70 horsepower, so you won’t be going anywhere terribly quickly, but that’s not the point of these cars. I wish we had more pictures to go on, but assuming that the damage is really what we can see in the back of the car, and since the engine is said to be free, I don’t think it would take too much to get this car running again. They are complex, although obviously not as much as the DS, so you’ll have to really want one to make this project a success. There are blogs here and here on DS/ID restoration to help guide you! Any Citroen fans out there?
Jay Leno did a pretty good video about his on YouTube. A lot of people I have talked to agree with him. They all state that these are great cars to drive. I can only imagine the suspension would take some learning if not sorted correctly.
I think the seller ought to be clubbed for the “hostage holding” of the title. Hope he has it forever and nobody buys it. Most ridiculous proposition ive ever seen
I assume he doesn’t have the title but will get one for $300
In Arizona you can get a “bonded title” by posting a bond for the vehicle value, which in this case is probably less than $300. The Arizona MVD sends letters to anyone who ever had a vehicle with that VIN and, as long as nobody answers the mail, you get a title in a few months.
I disagree. The seller’s proposal is entirely reasonable. He doesn’t have a title on the car. If you don’t need one, then the price is as stated. If you require one, he will obtain it for you, if you pay the additional $300.00 fees that he has to incur in securing a title for you. How can that not be fair?
…what is meant by “clear title” and “closed title”……you either have a title or you don’t…no?
The distinction I was making was between an open title and a closed title. If Joe sells a car to Jim and writes Jim’s name as the “buyer” on the title, it is a closed title. Only Jim can title the car in his name. If instead of titling the car in his name right away, Jim holds onto the car for several years, the title becomes stale because now Jim can’t sell the car to Steve unless he pays all of the accumulated fines for not titling the car years ago. Therefore, unless Jim can find Joe and have Joe get a new duplicate title to sign over with today’s date, it is less costly for Jim to pay for a new bonded title than to pay all of the fines.
Absolutely love these cars. I had a 1963 DS19 – brilliant car! Hydraulics are a bit of a nightmare though!
1962 model year will have brake fluid in the hydraulics. Even in Phoenix, that means nearly every hydraulic component will need to be rebuilt or replaced. The early engines also didn’t do well when “sidelined” unless the radiator was drained immediately, the cylinder head is most likely perforated. My guess is the seller bought the car from the previous owner (who never registered the car even though it had a closed title), put some tires on and the realized he was in way over his head. Tires probably cost him at least $600 (400 mm Michelin is the only thing that fits), so he is really under water with this one.
If you are going to try to bring a barn find back to life a post 68 (with mineral fluid hydraulics) is the way to go.
Hi John T
I do agree with you about the hydraulic fluid. The eary DS and ID had what we called the “liquide rouge” in France.
You are perfectly right too to prefer a post 1968 with LHM fluid.
The cast iron cylinder head is quite strong but the cylinder head gasket will have to be checked and eventually replaced before trying to restart the engine.
I noticed that the right front fender is missing on the photo of the engine, why?
They are great cars and driving a DS or ID is an unforgettable experience.
Ah, this probably explains the Arizona title document that came with my 1967 TR4A re-import to the UK in 1990. The previous owner had it shipped over on the understanding that it was a car that spent it’s life in a ‘Dry’ State. When it arrived – shock, horror – Chassis was in a very poor condition and the body panels were peppered with rust (the was more filler than metal)! The rear wings were dreadful and got replaced with fiberglass ones. The chassis was repaired by a Triumph specialist here in England at a cost of £2,500 back in 1991.
It seems that the car was probably from New York area, and possibly never garaged.
Arizona???? Nahhh!