With a forward-tilted snout, long hood, and a short fastback rear, the redesigned 1969 Mustang looked ready to leap down the road. This 1969 Ford Mustang in Denver, Colorado, has served one owner since 1974 and recently enjoyed a mechanical rejuvenation after sitting for “many years.” Now the V8 pony runs, drives, and stops, according to the listing here on eBay. At least two bidders have its market value above $10,000 with a day left. The ’69 and ’70 top my list of classic Mustangs, with the ’69 getting a slight edge thanks to its outboard headlights. Check out more differences in this two-year body style here at FordMuscle.
The seller kindly provides a Marti Report showing this ’69 as one of 98 ordered with code 4 Silver Jade Paint and code 2G Ivy Gold vinyl bucket seats. This reupholstery job shows some respect to the original hue, though most enthusiasts would put it back to stock. The center console matches the factory order as well. A C4 three-speed automatic handles the gear changes.
An original-looking 302 cid (5.0L) V8 powers this pony, and while recent updates have it running, you can bet it will need more attention before any long trips. Power front disc brakes help slow down the fun.
It’s hard to beat the ’69 and ’70 SportsRoof for aggressive styling, more muscular than the original late 1964 Mustang that defined the “pony car” and took the market by storm. Horsepower had come a long way too, with the ’69 offering angry mills like the 335 HP Cobra Jet Ram-Air 428.
Let’s not sugar-coat it, there’s plenty of rust on this Mustang, but parts are available, and you might get away with repair panels, though a professional shop would do the whole quarter. This ‘stang left the factory with highway-friendly 2.79 gears inside the normally bulletproof 9-inch rear end. This car’s already brought about double what I would pay, but we hope the new owner gets this classic back on the road for some smiles. What’s your top bid on this double-green pony?
Thanks Todd, good write-up. The current five-figure bid illustrates the desirability of a rusty 1969 fastback, even if it isn’t a Mach 1. There sure were some attractive colors at this time, including Silver Jade. Plenty of rust, but the seller offers to do the necessary metal work for $5000 (does that sound reasonable?). I can visualize the car with good metal, fresh paint, new tires and wheels, and a refurbished interior; it would be very attractive.
Just curious: what do you make of the vertically perforated/rusty metal above the left rear wheel?
Bob, if they know what they’re doing, and they’re doing all the metal work, yes, 5k would be a fair price. Not sure what body work prices are in Colorado, where this 69 is located, but around here in the Bay Area, California, to have a reputable shop hang just both quarters prices average from around 6-8k pending on the car, all the way up to ten grand at the larger shops. Metal work is not inexpensive at all these days. That is one skill I’d still very much like to learn.
I read the seller say “this is all easy work,” yeah, maybe if you’re experienced doing it, but even then, it is an art form to do it correctly. Not everyone can, or should, be doing metal work. Hanging quarters, fitting roofs, even patch panels, takes skill. It is not for novice body guys, like me.
Thanks Mike76. I also noted the “easy work” comment. Solving differential equations are easy for some folks too, I suppose.
Thanks, Bob_in_TN! I’m guessing that LR quarter was crushed and pulled out in some brutal fashion on that crease, and there’s probably a good 1/4 inch or more of Bondo across that whole panel. I replaced a quarter on my one-owner Fox Mustang a while back. It involved drilling over 300 spot welds and hundreds of measurements, etc. Not “difficult,” but definitely time-consuming. https://barnfinds.com/road-legal-todds-one-owner-232k-1989-ford-mustang-lx-5-0/
There is more visible rust than the seller mentions in their ad. Does the $5,000 fix everything or just what’s mentioned? What about the rust fore and aft of the shock towers on both inner fenders? Depending on how much rust, this might make a good foundation for a restomod/protouring build, but someone willing to spend for a high end build will likely start with a nicer body, it will pay for itself in the long run.
Steve R
A friend had one whose rear shock towers rusted through.
I can remember when we used beer cans and Bondo to patch rusted panels. This rot is way beyond that. The last interior I bought was for my 64 Ford was $16,00. I had the seat covers professional installed. The Carpet was so easy I did it. I had to have the driver’s side floor panel replaced by a welder. I thought the car was a rust bucket when I bought it. I scraped about two tons of red clay off the bottom before pressure washing.
Seller ended listing.
Hundreds of measurements to hang a 1/4 panel? It only pays 12-16 hours to hang one. Door gaps, deck lid gaps and a few self tapping screws. What is there to measure? I worked in a production collision shop for 30 years, put plenty of 1/4s on same car, in paint by lunch time. Quick cut method is how I do it. Air chisel with sharp exhaust cutting bit. If you’re not a hack, run air chisel low speed, no need to drill spot welds. Gravy.
Thanks, Matt. Mmm. Gravy. Clearly you are an expert and I am a self-taught amateur. My car was hit off-center in the RR, so I cut a seam behind the license plate, and grafted in a chunk of a donor that included the right side of the tail light panel, the part of the trunk floor that includes the gas filler, some of the structure behind the quarter-panel, and the quarter itself, which I joined at the factory lead joint. Maybe next time I’ll do better. I am satisfied with the results linked in the article above.
At first I thought the “ivy gold” referred to the rust growing as decoration on the body.
Sold $14k
SOLD for 14K.
Too much rust!!