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914-6 GT Clone: 1975 Porsche 914

What a cool opportunity for someone to own a 914-6 GT clone with some of the hard work already done. This example was painted and had the must-needed flares welded into the body over ten years ago but was never completed. It comes with seemingly all of the must-have bits to finish the project, from a 2.7L 911 engine to a complete set of Fuchs alloy wheels to fill out those fat fenders. The car is missing some cosmetic components like the bumpers but those are easy enough to source. The project also comes with a number of usable spares. Find the 914-6 GT replica here on eBay with bidding at $6,100 and the reserve unmet.

The 914-6 remains an exceedingly rare Porsche to find in any sort of condition, and well-preserved and restored cars are reliably fetching prices in the low six-figures. To build your own may make more sense, especially one that was loosely assembled when 911 spares weren’t as pricey as they now are. The 914 had some other important work done while it was disassembled, as the seller notes it has a removable roll cage and a chassis reinforcement kit welded in. The bodywork looks tidy and while it’s impossible to know if there’s any rust lurking underneath, what we can see here looks good. Seeing those fared fenders poke out from the rear is a very good thing.

The listing notes loads of useful parts needed for completing the conversion, from these gorgeous Fuchs wheels to a complete suspension taken from a 911. Wheels hubs are also included, and while the 2.7L engine will need final assembly (and presumably a thorough going-over to make sure the components are still sound), it’s at least one less thing for the next owner to source. Of course, as it relates to the engine, it may be more efficient to find one that’s already been built and/or was taken from a known running car, but as I mentioned earlier, parts prices have definitely spiked since ten years ago.

The seller mentions two additional engines will be included, both Type 4 units with one a 1.8L and the other a 2.0L. Neither are running, so it seems to make the most sense to put the 2.7L back together and use that when completing the final assembly of this sweet replica. The interior is included but not installed, along with an adjustable 911 suspension. The parts list is impressive and the tedious bodywork phase is complete, so I can certainly see the appeal for a DIYer who doesn’t want to worry about spending hours in the paint booth and can instead install the drivetrain and suspension and get this killer clone back on the road. How would you finish it?


  1. Bruce Rolfe

    I would black out all the bright work to match the wheels. Then finish with all the 911 parts. Install a pair of Weber carbs and hit the track.

  2. Paolo

    About a year ago someone in the Fresno area was trying to sell 24, (possibly more) 914s all at the same time. I wonder how that went and what effect the sales had on the 914 market.

  3. Phlathead Phil

    I’d never do that to a 914.

  4. steve

    The 2.0 6 cylinder that was in the actual 914-6 was different in a few critical ways. The outlet from the oil cooler is not like a 911. You kinda NEED the correct cooler. That’s just the start..What about exhaust?. The 914-6 was most like a “T” engine which had iron cylinders and was rated at something like 110hp. Putting a monster motor in one might want to have a welded in roof like the 916 or the one-off 914-8. It will be nice when finished but I wouldn’t really want one like it.

    Like 1
  5. Dennis G Winter

    People put 3.0 and up engines in 914’s. This 2.7 is not a problem. The GT flares make a 914 look really good.

  6. Yellowtr6

    Ok…as an owner of a real 914-6 going through an engine update/rebuild of a 3.0 liter let me say first off that judging from the picture of the 2.7 liter heads I would say the seller’s comments about that engine “just need assembled” are very misleading. I would never even consider just assembling that 2.7 with those heads looking like that. Just reassembling any aircooled Porsche 6-cylinder engine without disassembly and at least verifying the condition of the bearings, crank, etc is a recipe for a very expensive outcome. If you are going to pay a reputable shop for a complete rebuild you should start thinking about spending $20,000… to start. If you are lucky and it doesn’t need anything beyond a top-end rebuild you might get away with half that…maybe. As an example, the new pistons and cylinders for my rebuild are a bit over $5000…just for the parts!!

    Like 7
  7. Yellowtr6

    Auction just closed at $10,000. A nice buy if the body and paint was done to any decent standard.

    Like 1

    EV CONVERSION.(not sorry)

    Like 1

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