A previous owner parked this 1954 MG TF more than fifty years ago, and it hasn’t seen active service since. The seller intended to revive this classic, but progress stalled before the project could get going. Therefore, they’ve decided it needs to go to a new home and an owner who can do it justice. The TF is listed here on Craigslist in Sacramento, California. They set their price at $13,000 OBO, and I must thank Barn Finder T.J. for spotting this little British classic.
The seller indicates this TF underwent a repaint in its original Ivory during the 1960s. The photos suggest the preparation may have been lacking because the newer paint shows evidence of peeling. However, it does hold a respectable shine, supporting the seller’s suggestion that the car could be driven as-is. Potential buyers will probably elect to strip the panels to bare metal as part of a meticulous restoration, and its potential value could make that the best approach. One of the attractions of these classics is they are easy to dismantle and reassemble. That process would allow the buyer to ensure everything is 100% rust-free and that they complete their work to a high standard. On that subject, spending its life in California means the buyer need not worry about the presence of anything scarier than surface corrosion with this beauty. The grille looks exceptionally nice, and the seller holds numerous other trim pieces. Some require restoration, while others are ready to go. The wire wheels look okay, although I would have them professionally inspected to ensure safety before applying fresh paint. They aren’t visible in the supplied photos, but the seller indicates the top and side curtains are in good order.
The first MG TF rolled off the production line in late 1953, equipped with the 1,250cc XPAG four-cylinder engine producing 54hp. In mid-1954, the company introduced the upgraded XPEG powerplant that lifted capacity to 1,466cc and raised the output to 63hp. Both engines fed their power to the rear wheels via a four-speed manual transmission, and while the power increase appears modest, it had a measurable impact on the stopwatch. The 1,200cc version could cover the ¼-mile in 20.9 seconds, while the larger engine lowered the figure to 20.2. The seller indicates this numbers-matching classic was a daily driver when it entered hibernation in 1969, but the motor is now stuck. They’ve made limited attempts to get it free with no success. If the new owner can achieve that feat, a rebuild may be all that’s required. However, bracing for engine replacement should be at the back of any potential buyer’s mind. The seller recently rebuilt the SU carburetors and sourced a correct valve cover to replace the alloy item seen here. They have the correct air cleaners, opening the possibility the new owner could achieve a “factory” appearance once their work is complete.
Buyers who ordered their new MG TF wearing Ivory paint received the choice of an interior trimmed in Red or Green. The seller indicates this car originally sported Red, but the previous owner swapped this for Black. They also replaced the steel dash with a wooden unit, which looks in good condition. Companies like Moss Motors could supply a correct reproduction, but unless the buyer seeks spotless originality, I’d leave the classy timber in situ. The current owner did a fantastic job restoring the timber wheel, and the gauge cluster looks pretty tidy. Some interior hardware items were missing, but it appears the seller successfully located replacement parts. It requires a retrim, which will cost around $2,000. However, that would make the interior look immaculate and ensure the car receives favorable comments wherever it goes.
Tackling any project build takes a leap of faith, but the signs are promising with this 1954 MG TF 1500. The life it led appears to have left it rust-free, although its engine issues require further investigation. If it is salvageable, returning the car to the road in the short term may not be difficult or expensive, with the new owner addressing its cosmetic shortcomings as time and circumstances allow. The TF 1500 enjoys a strong following in the classic community, and a high-end restoration could see this car command a value above $30,000 in the current market. The asking price is slightly higher than I’d like to see, but if the seller shows a willingness to negotiate, this could be an excellent project candidate.
Sometimes the starter motors on these things jammed. Slacken it and then see if the motor turns over!
A frozen engine usually indicates rusted piston rings that with patience can be freed but the pistons must be carefully removed so as not to scratch the block bores. PB Blaster is a great product for freeing the rings. A soft hone on the cylinders and a clean and re-ring on the pistons and you you could probably only have to do bearings, gaskets, and timing chain to get a good engine. The original color on this car does nothing to enhance it’s looks. Factory color be damned, I’d put something else on this one.
My MGY engine did the jammed starter motor stunt a few times. Rocking while in first gear usually worked, sometimes the crank handle freed to jam. Probably only once needed to loosen the retaining bolts.
I freed slightly rusted-up pistons in a similar Morris 10 engine with penetrating oil and gentle applications of a hammer to a piece of wood on top of the pistons.
With LUCK this motor might be encouraged to rock and roll with a little Woodstock type affection!
bobhess, you’re correct on the suggestions to get the engine running in good order. It doesn’t take much rust to lock up an engine, and unless it’s been under water new rings and honing works just fine. I’ve done it twice – once on a big Graymarine engine in an old Chris-Craft. Wish I had the funds to tackle this gem.
Long term storage of an engine should include blocking the exhaust (aerosol can tops) and pulling the choke on the carbs to keep any moisture out. The song is wrong… it does rain in California.
As the song says: “it pours” (in California)
Wow, the metal all looks good! I kinda like the color it is now. I’d buy it if I wasn’t so damn cheap.
I loved the style of the MGs back in the early to mid 50s. As a kid, I assembled several plastic models (beginning around 1951-2 to 1956-7 just so I could see the small changes.
Sorry but a car with a frozen engine is not worth $13K to me anyhow. While this is a desirable car it needs too much work to pay that kind of money.
This is only about an hour down the hill. Would be fun to get it running and tootle around these country roads on a cool Autumn day just the way it is. But it deserves to be garaged so I’m out.
Go on, go for it, who cares if people call you an idiot!
A “lean-to” against an existing shed would give good protection.
Bite the bullet. You might not like the taste, but you sure will enjoy the drive!
I’ve freed up a couple of engines by finding the piston near the top but not AT the top, then loosen the rockers so the valves are closed. Next I knocked the top off an old sparkplug and brazed on a grease fitting. It’s amazing how much hydraulic pressure builds up. Helps to soak all the cylinders in Marvel Mystery oil, or PB Blaster for awhile first.
The 1500 TF is, in many people’s eyes, the most desirable (even tho I still prefer the TC).
A couple of numbers are wrong here, though. The TF1250 had 57-8HP, not 54, and could do 0-60 in about 19 seconds. The 1500 could do 0-60 in just over 16 seconds, with its 63HP. People conveniently refer to 1250cc TFs as 1954 cars, and 1500 cars as 1955s, even though the exact manufacture dates may be different. (There is no chassis number given, to determine the exact date of mfg.)
$13,000 is an aggressive price, but not by much. I would say $10-11k would be about all one could wring out of it.
And bobhess – pulling the “choke” on SU carbs just lowers the jets; there is no flapper, like American carbs, to close off the intakes.
Correct. Was talking general procedures that can be used. The carb springs will hold the throttle disc closed to achieve a good enough seal for storage of SU cars. Agree on the price. Too much to do to get it back on he road.
“Frozen engine ” can be anything from stuck starter , clutch disc rusted to flywheel or seized rod or main, let alone rust in bores, buyer should beware.
I have a 1952 MG/TD Kit car , with a VW chassis / drivetrain I was told besides the exhaust that the main difference that you can tell by glancing at a real MG and and MG kit car is the windshield wiper blades , on a kit car they are on the bottom , on a real MG they are on the top , as you can plainly see the wipers are on the bottom of this car …..Now when, or did they ever put the wiper blades on the bottom of these older MGs, or could this possibly be a Kit car ???
I believe that the wiper motor went to below screen mounts on the TF1500,
Maybe the screen couldn’t be laid down on that later model?
But this is a TF, and all TFs had these wiper on the cowl. TA thru TD all had windshield-mounted wiper motors.
I can always tell a VW kit TD by the sharp windshield corners and the bonnet latches on the top of the side panels. I remember a few years ago somebody at Moss – like EVERYbody – wasn’t paying attention, and every TD on the cover of one of their MG catalogs or magazines was actually a VW kit car. I bet that’s one they would like to forget!
I bet , do you happen to know what the date was on that Moss catalog , I would love to see it …I knew that MG went to the cowl mount sometime , I just didn’t know when , Thanks for the info. I love my Kit car , i know that they are unpopular , but it’s what I could afford , but I do tell people that its a Kit car , so they are not fooled !!
Good on you, Corky! That’s how it should be. Most get these cars to enjoy,
If you enjoy it, what does it matter if it’s an original, a kit car or a rebodied VW lookalike?
If I could afford to, I would prefer a TD to a TF; I like the styling, the drive would be similar to my old Y Type.
Some say that the TF was a TD with a different front – probably correct.
I know there was an earlier on e, but Moss catalog 148, about 2017, had at least one kit-car on the cover – a red VW can one. Send me your e-mail and I’ll send a snap of it. tlange@acadia.net
I agree that one should just enjoy their car and drive it. I confess, tho, that I am frustrated by the MG kit cars advertized as “`1952 MG TD Runs Great $4500” If it’s a VW underneath a fiberglas body, tell it like it is, so that people looking for a VW aren’t distracted by steel-bodied cars.
I am also looking for a real TD in about the $10,000 or under range in decent shape , I may never find it , but that’s ok too , like I said I like my Kit Car !! My email is corkyaeh@gmail.com I clicked on yours but it wouldn’t load ??? Yes I agree , I think it’s because Kit cars are so unpopular and that is because you destroyed a car to make another , and most of them are pretty shoddy The previous owner traced mine bakt to Fargo N. Dakota to a dude who made Kit cars and sold them before he supposedly went to prison ???
Garry – that’s an interesting way to define a TF, but it doesn’t go far enough! I can’t think of a SINGLE body part on a TF that will fit a TD, from grille, fenders, doors, running boards, rear fenders, gas tank, valances, windshield, dash, instruments, seats, etc. Indeed, the TF was designed and built very quickly as a stop-gap to try to compete with the A-H, which outperformed the TD in every way. Every attempt was made to streamline the TF, from headlights faired into the fenders, more raked grille and windshield, and even a more raked gas tank! The only chassis difference was a minor engine mount change, and the location of the fuel pump in later TF’s.
Mechanically the TF1250 was the same as the TD Mark II, until the 1500cc XPEG came along.
Tom, thanks for that history lesson.
I read that the TF was introduced because Leonard Lord (an Austin man) and he wanted to delay the MG A which he considered too much a challenge to the Austin Healy. Apparently Austin personnel gained the upper hand after the merger that formed BMC.
My ready access memory doesn’t work like it used to, and I can’t locate a lot of my hard copy!
Garry – I’m in the same boat; I find I have to go from often-faulty memory…
Corky – I think people look down on TD kit cars because
a) they are fiberglas
b) they were NOT made by MG and copy that body annoyingly-well at quick glance
c) they sometimes have added badges to suggest they ARE MG cars
d) they are often more reliable than MG’s…
e) owners of kit cars have been known to appear at MG car shows and be frustrated they aren’t let in to show their cars
f) As an MG guy I have received calls from car owners trying to resolve mechanical problems, where it has taken me a frustrating 10 minutes to figure out they do NOT have an MG, but a VW-based kit car, about which I know NOTHING!
LOL Tom
A. Corvettes are Fiberglass ??? what’s wrong with it ??? curious ?? B. I have had people argue with me about the KIT CAR sign , believe it or not ?? C. My car came with badges , I took them off . D. yes for the most part VWs are more reliable than MGs .E I have never been turned away from a car show , in fact I usually see several Kit cars there , also I have a sign that says KIT CAR on it that I put on the windshield among other things like details about the manufacture F.I have always had all my trouble with the VW chassis / drivetrain I have had absolutely no problems with the kit car part , and the first thing I all ways tell them is it’s really a VW Beetle ..I kinda consider it a bunebuggy type of car !! but for the most part I do agree with you on your e-mail !!
Interesting Corky. I found that my MG Y was just as reliable as my 20 years younger, and new when I bought it, VW 1300 Beetle.
I drove them bother pretty hard, VW over rougher ground (roads ?)
where can i get a set of these flat bumpers ?
Make them!