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Pick Your B: Driver, Project, Or Parts?


There are many MGBs out there in various states of disrepair and restoration. Do any of these 1966 MGBs look like a feasible project to you? There is little information on thIS red one listed on craigslist with an asking price of “at least” $3,000. It’s overpriced by at least a grand perhaps, but it’s in San Diego and could be rust free. It needs a clutch slave and a radiator hose to get on the road. Jim S also found A yellow one here on eBay, in pieces, with a BIN of $1,300 and in Edwardsville, IL. It was disassembled in 1980 and is missing at least the engine and rear end.

The owner provided only the one picture of the red one. It could be a rusted hulk but there’s a possibility it’s actually a nice car. It would be worth a look if one was in San Diego. The body of the yellow one could be OK, but there is likely more than the drive train missing as it’s been moved a few times. How much could it be worth for parts?

That’s a lot of parts, but how much do you suppose is missing? Is there enough there to be worth restoring, or is this just a pile of parts?

another B

There are a lot of Bs listed online. There is this “Special Edition” listed on craigslist in Orange County for “best offer over” $3,500. The other pictures provided are too blurry to see. It hasn’t been registered since 1989. They do say more pictures are available upon request.

Are any of these MGBs worth looking at? Or would it be better to find one in nice driving condition for a little more?


  1. Avatar photo Dutch 1960

    The two red ones are the same car.

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  2. Avatar photo Howard A Member

    Um, what’s “special” about it? Looks like a pretty standard MGB to me. Crummiest pictures ever.

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  3. Avatar photo Rufus

    This red car is a great example of what has happened to the market in the last few years. A nice 66 sells on the internet for “all the money” and this fellow sees his retirement plan out in the yard. The car has been laying up for decades, and without even seeing it I know it will take more than a couple of hoses, a slave cylinder and a battery to become a daily driver. And then,,, wait for it,,, no title. I sold the equivalent 66GT last year for $300 and was happy to get it. The words Barn Find do not make a $1000 car worth three times the money. And I, of all people, understand trying for the top dollar first. But this car is just too little for too much. In today’s market, it is easy to find a good driver quality Mk1 B (63 – 67) for under $10K. If a fellow is patient and persistent, $5K will buy a decent running, driving B. But with folks like this muddying the water, looking for a quick buck, the collectible car hobby in general and the B hobby in particular begin to look bad.
    Please,,, buyers beware!
    Have fun

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    • Avatar photo Michael Rogers Member

      Rufus must live far inland where ‘them furrin curs aint no gud fer huallin hay” The hardtop is desirable, PRE SMOG is another + as are wires If a ‘decent user’ is worth $5k, I don’t see $2K needs to be spent to make it one but I don’t take cars to Geoff’s British Emporium to be wrenched on at $150/Hr

      As with almost ANY potential purchase, I want to give it a good lookover

      Keep in mind that at least Here in Calif. A DECENT ricer will cost $2k to start.

      As to the $300 B, Calif paid me $1000 to scrap a ricer, same with a Pontiac econobox .

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      • Avatar photo Rufus

        How did you know I live “inland”? Unfortunately I didn’t let that keep me from enjoying BMC products for the last four decades. I could go thru the list, but to keep it brief, for the last 20 years I’ve only dealt with B’s. That particular hardtop is one of the least desirable of the aftermarket tops available (and where is the soft top and frame?). As to pre-smog, if I understand correctly Cal. cars don’t have to pass smog until ’75 keeping that from being a selling point, and after 50 years, wire wheels, if they have not had substantial maintenance, become more of a hindrance than a positive. After being non-op for over 25 years, I would earnestly suggest replacement of all rubber parts on the car from belts and hoses to suspension bushings simply from decay, and that doesn’t take into consideration hydraulics and fuel systems. I could go on, but you are making my point for me. The average rookie looks at an ad for a car like this and, viewing the photos through his rose colored glasses, declares “awwh hell, I could have that running for less than $200”. But out here in the hinterlands, running and driving is a phrase we use for a car that you can take your wife or kids, and not have to worry about pieces falling off, or coming home on a wrecker.
        BTW, Geoff’s doesn’t get $150 an hour, their rate is $135, and he calls me for MGB tech advice.
        And, Southern California notwithstanding, look for rust. Did I say Rust? Oh yeah, RUST is an on going concern with B’s.
        In conclusion, I didn’t scrap the 66 GT on purpose as its my belief that since they aren’t making any more of them, it has more value as parts than as scrap.
        Have fun

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  4. Avatar photo Dan


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  5. Avatar photo rangeroger

    3 years ago I drove to San Diego from North Idaho and picked up a 1968 1275 MG Midget for $ 1700. Even though I trailered it home, I put 250 miles on it while in SD. The guy I bought it from e-mailed me a while back and said he had a ’62 Midget he had just put a 1275 in and would make me a good deal. I had to pass as one LBC was already eating me out of house and home and with only 4 or 5 months a year of drivability, I couldn’t afford another one.

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  6. Avatar photo angliagt

    If I were interested in this car,I’d check it out through DMV.
    I bought a one-owner,locally bought,’68 MGB,that had always been
    garage kept.It had an interior fire,from a faulty battery charger,that
    burned the interior,plus the trunk lid,& the metal panel behind the
    interior.It had last been registered in 1999.
    When I went to CA DMV to transfer it,I was told that there
    were $749 due in back fees! I’m going to strip it out,& hopefully sell
    the body (out of state),& try & get my money back.
    Back then,you had to get a non-op every year,for a $5 fee.
    Seems that someone forgot to renew it.
    Now a non-op is$10,& good until you decide to reregister it.

    – Doug

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