I don’t know anyone who doesn’t like a bargain. This is particularly true when searching for a project candidate. The simple fact is that the less a buyer pays for their classic, the more they will typically have in the pot to perform their build before financial viability becomes a factor. That is why this 1973 Triumph TR6 deserves a close look. It is begging for restoration, but it is a largely complete British sports car with only a few identified rust issues. The seller has listed it here on Facebook Marketplace in Beaumont, Texas. Their initial asking price of $10,000 has been slashed to $6,000 OBO. However, the fact that it has been on the market for over twelve weeks may motivate them to move further on their price in a bid to send it to a new home. I must say a big thank you to Barn Finder BCB42 for spotting this potential bargain.
It is amazing how some cars have an immediate impact on a person, and such is the case with me and the Triumph TR6. I spotted my first one, finished in Saffron Yellow, as a teenager. I will never forget it, because I was taken by the aggressive styling that gave that car a sense of purpose. This 1973 example wears Code 19 White, which is one of only two shades that the company offered during the TR6’s entire production run. It shows its age and would benefit from a refresh. However, with the panels looking pretty straight, first impressions are positive. The seller indicates that the floors have the type of surface corrosion that you might expect from a classic in a dry climate, but no penetrating rust. So far, so good. That brings us to the less pleasant news. The seller states that there is significant rust in the A-pillar on the driver’s side. It is impossible to determine how extensive it is below the cracked paint, although repairs of this type are best performed by a professional. After all, we’re talking about a structural issue, and the worst time for an amateur to discover that their DIY approach doesn’t cut the mustard is in an accident when structural integrity is crucial. Therefore, this is a case of better to be safe than sorry.
The Triumph’s interior shows promise and could be considered serviceable in its current form. The Tan upholstered surfaces are free from rips and wear, and the carpet may present acceptably following a deep clean. However, the door caps have succumbed the the harsh Texas sun, and I suspect that the same may be true for the pad hiding under the aftermarket cover. The seller doesn’t mention whether the factory tachometer is present, and a couple of switches are hanging loose or missing. However, with the dash timber in reasonable condition, the identified shortcomings won’t cost a fortune to address.
Powering this TR6 is a 2.5-liter six that generated 106hp and 133 ft/lbs of torque in its prime. Shifting duties fall to a four-speed manual transmission, while independent suspension and rack-and-pinion steering provide a rewarding driving experience when the road begins to twist and turn. The seller indicates that this TR6’s engine doesn’t run and that the brakes and clutch are inoperative. It is unclear what would be required to coax that six back to life, but the set of upgraded carburetors hanging off the side may allow it to produce additional ponies once it springs to life. One attraction of these classics is their elegant simplicity. If an engine rebuild proves necessary, there is a good chance that it could be performed in a home workshop.
This 1973 Triumph TR6 shows promise as a project candidate, and apart from the windshield frame repairs, a competent person should be able to complete many of the required tasks in a home workshop. That brings us to the question of financial viability, which is often a consideration in cases like this. A high-end restoration should yield a potential value above $25,000, although higher figures are definitely possible. A combination of the seller’s price drop and a hands-on approach leaves plenty of room to move. However, the A-pillar repairs will undoubtedly determine whether or not this project is worth the time and cost. What do you think?
I can never understand why people today (who attempt to sell their abandoned projects) do not detail their cars much further than taking a few quick pictures. Even project cars need to present themselves well despite their flaws. Clean the engine compartment, use some steel wool on those parts that will clean up relatively easily and don’t leave parts lying around. Clean the wheels and tires and eliminate the surface rust as much as possible. You don’t need a full detail, just make the car look more promising. It doesn’t take that much time and the monetary reward is that much greater… plus the interest in the car is greater by prospective buyers! Many people today (because of the car market) think they have gold when really all they have is bronze! 10K for this car (as presented) is out of the question. 6K is still too high without further looks and info. The 3-4K range is where this car (as is) sits for me……
It’s hard to define what the rust risk is on this car based on the information provided by the seller? They describe rust in the A-post… technically, the “A-post” usually refers to the structure running from the top/front of doors up the side of the windshield to the roof (obviously, this model of car has no roof as such). The windshield frame on these cars is a separate structure that drops in and bolts to the body. If that is really where the rust problem is – getting a replacement used frame to fit is not big deal. You’d need to buy a used frame, remove/replace the glass and new seal, re-paint etc, but none of that is difficult or terribly expensive. TR4/4A, TR5/250 and TR6 all used the very same windshield frame, there’s plenty out there?
If the rust they refer to is further down in the actual body structure at front of the doors, that may be a little more expensive to resolve, but potentially not that bad either… the fender panels bolt up, so most repair work to the inner fender assembly below is not visible when the outer fender is fitted (I did the repairs to this area on my TR4 myself, I’m not a professional welder and some of my Frankenstein welds are not pretty, but it’s solid, properly rust treated and painted, and none if it is ever seen). Also, though rust in the body structure is a structural issue for the integrity of the body itself obviously, the car is a body-on-frame design and sits on a substantial steel box frame. It’s not the same level importance as structural integrity on a uni-body design.
Moss Motors has the entire A pillars, or posts as they call them, available for very reasonable prices. They are not hard to put in but do take welding.
At $6K, this is grossly overpriced. This will easily go $15-$20K just to get it to a “nice’ driver, so $2K would be all I’d be willing to pay.
I don’t know if I ever saw one of these in white. I’ve said it before, British Racing Green, especially with that interior. Too bad it wasn’t closer. I like it a lot.