We’ve seen some pretty sorry cars brought back from the edge over the years here at Barn Finds, but you have to wonder whether that will be the case with this 1968 Dodge Charger. Time has not been kind to this classic, and returning it to its former glory will take a dedicated enthusiast. Potential buyers may look at this vehicle and decide that it would be better suited as a source of parts, and it has a few to offer. Located in Albany, New York, you will find the Charger listed for sale here on eBay. The owner has set the No Reserve auction to open at $7,500, but there have been no bids at the time of writing.
Looking at this Charger is hard on your eyes, but for all the wrong reasons. The past fifty-four years have not been kind to this classic, and it carries all of the rust you may expect to find in a vehicle of this type and age. Its Racing Green Metallic paint is covered by a coating of mold and mildew, while the vinyl top is gone. Externally, rust has impacted all of the spots we would expect, including the lower front fenders, rear quarter panels, and the area around the back window. The news gets no better when we delve below the surface because the seller indicates that the trunk pan and rear frame rails are gone. It seems that the floors aren’t much better, so if this Charger is to return to active duty, the buyer’s grinder and welder will be working overtime. The grille, front bumper, and headlight assemblies are all missing, as are many other trim pieces. One window is also gone, but the remaining glass is intact.
When it was shiny and new, this Charger’s drivetrain included an H-Code 383ci V8 that produced 335hp. The power found its way to the rear end via a three-speed A727 automatic transmission. That combination would have allowed the Charger to scorch through the ¼ mile in a neat 15 seconds. The seller believes that the transmission that comes with this car is original but is unsure about the engine. His lack of experience with Mopar products means that he has not determined this, but I suspect that this might not be a numbers-matching unit. He indicates that it features a 2-barrel carburetor and intake, which is incorrect for an H-Code. Someone may have treated the original motor to changes in that area, although this would seem unlikely. It will take an in-person inspection to expose the truth in this case. However, the motor turns freely, making it a prime candidate for rebuilding.
The news with this Charger doesn’t improve greatly when we turn our attention to its interior. It would have looked stunning in its original White vinyl trim, but as with the rest of the car, its best days seem behind it. Sadly, it isn’t even complete. The driver’s seat is missing, as is the gauge cluster, heater, and under dash wiring. Trim kits for Mopar vehicles tend to cost more than other classics of this era. That means returning the interior to its former glory is unlikely to be cheap. When you add everything together so far, it does place a big question mark over the financial viability of this project.
When a muscle classic like this 1968 Dodge Charger is reduced to this state, it is hard for enthusiasts to see. In an ideal world, somebody will take this Charger in hand and return it to its former glory. There’s no doubt that it would take a dedicated person with a fat wallet to achieve this, and you have to wonder whether that is likely to happen. It seems that its fate may rest as a parts car, although your opinion may differ. It will be interesting to gauge your feedback and see what you think the future of this Dodge will be.
*SIGH* Here’s another moldering hulk, dragged from the back forty and advertised in an attempt to cash in on the ‘B’ body Charger frenzy! I have to wonder WHY anyone would spend an (estimated) $50k+ to bring this car back to life, when there are running restored examples available?? With so many parts missing, and so much metal replacement required, someone is going to go underwater quickly. Even as a dedicated Mopar fan, I just don’t see it!
I’d rather put the skins of a ’69 on a Crown Vic at about 1/5 the price as restoring this one.
That’s not really a thing, is it?
Chris, it is! That’s what they do at the Dukes Reunion shows. The body panels fit really well on a crown vic. They’re safer to jump and they’re not destroying anymore 2nd gen Chargers. Here’s a youtube link to one of the conversions. https://youtu.be/Nk-ypusAmPk
The person selling this pile of scrap metal should be fined for posting this garbage on Barn Find. Barn Find should be ashamed of themselves for this post. Worse pile of crap ever posted.
Shes Purdy in a Deliverance mivie kinda way .
Its probably faster than mist when running with the light body 😉
Scrap it please…
I needs to be crushed. It’s done for.
The world will have to be pretty ideal because I don’t think you could restore this thing if you tried. The unibody is completely rusted.
The Creature from the Black Lagoon. N95 mask and additional PPE required to inspect this Petri Dish
Need to push it back in the lake and leave it there there’s nothing left to salvage off it
To each his/her own. Pricey project. Tremendous undertaking. Trailer queens aren’t the only ones that can impress a crowd. Merely getting this one to operate safely and under its own power can make a stronger impact. For whomever is brave enough, it would be awesome to follow your progress. Good luck to both the seller and the buyer.
Another (M)ostly (O)ld (P)arts (A)nd (R)ust that someone id trying yo use to retire. I don’t think this is even worth the price of scrap. I’m not even going to wish anyone good luck. Just drag it back into the lower 40 and tell stories of the GOOD OLD DAYS.
Parts car and not much of that. Sad to see it this bad and don’t have any dreams of getting it running. Everything is rotted so badly. I bet you can crush the frame rails with your bare hand! It would cost 50K in parts/supplies plus 1500 hours labor’ minimum. Would it be cool all done? sure but a nice one that never rusted is 65K. Can anyone else do the math?
A poster car for the American Car Cancer Society.
How can someone allow a car to rot this bad and then have the nerve to advertise for sale! Especially for that price. Could “Junk Yard Cars” even take on this one?
Okay guys, we need to fix this in three days or else we’re LOSING THE SHOP!
Sad that they let it rot away, nothing more than a VIN plate now. too bad
Dredged from the bottom of a deep ocean trench. Fell off a garbage scow.
Sigh, we won’t even speak of the existing passenger seat being the wrong one…oh wait, just did…sigh…
Gee, a 70 Charger restomod just sold today for $330,000. I doubt even Chris Birdsong would tackle this pile of NY salt belt junk. Why is it almost every 68 Charger ends up like this.
Pipe Dreams!!!!!
I don’t have much to add other than the other comments. Few if much for parts, the body is way to rusty, no mention of the floors and trunk ect. go figure. I guess that the title and tags are (if present!) about it. The motor trans showed don’t look like anything outstanding. Crazy to think seller is wanting what he is asking to start. As an avid mopar guy, sorry to put the kiss of death on this one. If it where to be saved, make a show out of it. Graveyard cars? Out of it unless there was some promantice. (bad spelling).
The 1985 Town & country is a better buy
The decimal point is wrong; shouldn’t it be $7.50? $75 at a push, ‘cos there’s parts to be had. That’s rotten.
I live in Albany, and I saw this very car at a show just 3 years ago, and it was perfect. The owner must have decided to drive it year round.
Respectfully, you nay sayers are unskilled in the fine art of restoration and I, for one, could rebuild this absolutely excellent 68 Charger by myself in less than six months whereby the whole body would be all new steel panels with a new trunk pan and new floor pans too if it needs it both sides.
Judging by the rockers I can patch those both sides easy with butt welds and NOT lap welds via MIG Flux Core wire no gas.
I’d high build prime all the new steel and sandblast the entire car inside and unpside down.
You armchair Barn Finds guys are too wimpy to ever get into a real restoration, and it’s highly likely you have never picked up a MIG welder or a TIG welder in your lifetime.
All the panels for this build can be obtained for less than $4k USD. Purchase of the car for asking plus the new panels is all under $12k for an all steel body whereby the only things that have to be completed are the drivetrain & transmission, plus front end, and breaks all around.
Heck, you can even learn how to repair old car radios on antiqueradios.com where lots of restoration people attaempt to fix their old car radios bak to original via the specs.
Bob
I look forward to seeing this car in six months right back here on this site. Providing that is you are willing to pay the asking price of $7500.00 which I believe is us “Armchair Barn Find Wimpy Guys” are most shocked by. Good luck, Peace Out and see you in six months.
I never said I had the purchase price.
Bob
I think that you may have misread the logo. It says D-O-D-G-E, not D-U-E-S-E-N-B-E-R-G. If you do have the ability to restore or perhaps re-car this pile and make a profit, all of us Mopar guys would be happy for the “save” and impressed by your talent. But talk is cheap-show us!
Dear Wimpy,
Disassembly of entire car = 2 days
Sandblasting = 1 day
Welding approximatey = 10 days
Order all new panels = 1 hour
Body prep/grinding/sand = 6 days
High build prime = 1 hour
Sanding & Finish Body = 2 days
Drivetrain rebuild = 4 days
Breaks all around = 1 day
Tires on new rims = 2 hours
Glass cleaned & install = 1 day
Interior Installed = 2 days
New Gas Tank Installed = 3 hours
Install drivetrain = 2 hours
————————————————-
Total TIME: = 1 Month
————————————————-
Note: I would be using a Plasma Cutter for all the rust removal before sandblasting at a Commerical Sandblaster.
Bob
Robert White proves that there is a shiny side to every turd!
Drivetrain is the only thing worth saving but not at that price
If i was as good as you say you are I certainly would know how to use brakes in the right way
Not so, there’s a VIN tag there somewhere.
Garb
I about had a heart attack, but not for reasons y’all mentioned.
I bought new in 68, a GG1 green RT and thought, Noooo.
Anyway, it’s not obviously. My serial XS29L8B426994.
So, still lookin. And, if it was, yes, I was on my way.
See it sold. Someone capable, I hope, bought it. Not impossible.
Sometimes, a person with little money, can enter the collector world and now say, I got a 68 Charger. Quote-Unquote.
I just picked up a rust free floor for one in Vegas yesterday.
Always amazed at “restorers” that settle for sandblasting to prep a car for further metal work. Acid dipping gets into every nook and cranny allowing for a thorough cleaning. We have all seen these tv car shows where body is blasted and then they start cutting off panels only to expose structural rust. The “tech” then just grinds enough to weld onto “clean metal”. Sandblasting is a few hours to remove only what is visible and it’s super cheap, like $1000. I’ve had Duesenbergs acid dipped and it’s about a 5 day turn around and upwards of $15,000 cost. Enormous difference in results between cheap sandblasting and actually acid dipping to achieve a metallurgical change.
I’m very well versed in terms of welding & metallurgy as I’m a Mechanical Engineering Technician with a specialization in Tool Making. I also am well versed with a MIG welder, and restoration work.
I could buy a great deal of weed for $15k USD. Frankly, I use a Commercial Sandblaster and buy some weed with the rest.
I would never dip a car body given the cost to dip. I did dip doors to my 1966 Acadian Canso Sport Deluxe because I only had to drop them off at a jobber.
I’m self taught at everything, but I did ask my bodyman friends how to do it before I attempted restoration work.
Caustic Soda dipping has problems too, eh. It’s does not work on tar or undercoating very well.
I vote that Mr. white get the charger and prove his statements. I have had 100,s of projects with a few restorations. This car is full of unknows, hows that frame look, complete int. including missing parts, wiring, the list goes on. I, Finishing a 71 plymouth duster That needed lite body work new proper paint($9000). Speaking of a real paint job for the charger! back to my duster $, drive train $5000,nice 15″rallys bfg radials ,$1800,rallydash restore $900,wiring $!000. Mr,white is counting just the sheet metal. With all the metal work to do even at his quoted prices whats the point if its all done. That water gets pretty deep-unless you are doing for keeps. GOD make me stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’m certain that I could restore this Charger in two months of hard work whereby the whole car would be completely rebuilt with all new panels, glass, and wiring, tires, Soft Seal rubber trim, new chrome bumpers, new light bezzles, et cetera.
Yes it would be easier to just purchase a car that’s already rebuilt, but that not the challenge here with this particular 68.
If you enjoy restoring antique muscle cars the work is not difficult.
I’d shoot the finished body with Dupont acyrlic enamel.
And I’d probably just order a new Crate Hemi 426 instead of rebuilding that engine in the back of the pickup truck.
I would NOT buy House of Kolors paint.
Bob
I might have overjudged your comments Mr white. If you where to do all that-and keep it thats a different. I,m one that doesn’t like to go under water. The duster i,m doing now is a keeper, so making $ is not the point. It will never leave my hands until -well you get the point. Every time I go to the garage I lift the cover and smile at what was a POS in some eyes now is somthing to be proud of.