True project cars, those ones that have been off the road for many years and may or may not be complete, should only be taken on by dedicated individuals. Some would probably say foolhardy individuals! However, it helps to choose a less-obscure vehicle that has both parts and club support–this 1960 Triumph TR3A (yes, I know the factory called them all TR3s, but the A/B nomenclature helps when you’re choosing parts) fits both of those requirements. It’s listed for sale here on Facebook Marketplace for $2,500 and is located in Grand Ledge, Michigan. Thanks to Jim A. for submitting this backyard find!
Just in case you’re new to Barn Finds, some of us really like the Triumph TR series because of the basic design and “fun per dollar” you get out of these LBCs (Little British Cars). This car has the typical lower body rust and apron dents and dings you see on many TR2s and TR3s. While the sills will certainly need to be replaced, as well as serious work done to the four fenders (all bolt-on), the front apron is repairable. One thing that is especially nice about all TRs prior to the TR7 is that they are of body-on-frame construction. If necessary, the entire shell can be removed for restoration purposes. The seller states that the frame is solid and says there are parts included that aren’t pictured in the ad–both good news. Since it’s included in pictures, I’m guessing the 3A or 3B shell in the background is included as well–more good news!
Since almost all the metal is still in place on the front apron (that’s the single weldment that goes all the way from the front bottom to the edge of the hood), it’s a matter of lots of time and, as the Brits say, “panel beating”. Note the crank guide; these cars actually came with a functional crank and you can see the hole in the radiator to allow it to pass through. Honestly, despite owning many TRs, I’ve never tried to start one that way, but it is useful for rotating the engine precisely to adjust the valves! I believe the hardtop is an aftermarket “Parrish Plastics” version but I could be wrong. The rear window being intact is quite unusual, and the top could be either sold to partially fund a restoration or fairly easily refurbished for cold/wet weather use. Don’t delude yourself into thinking it will keep you completely dry or warm, though, drafts and leaks from the side curtain design will quickly change your mind.
Nice to see the last license plate is actually from the state the car is being sold in. Buying a true project car that’s been hauled from place to place inevitably leads to part shortages. Also, don’t worry about the missing tail lights and rear indicators as both are readily available.
We’re not shown much of the interior, but it’s pretty basic anyway. That’s not the original upholstery, but hopefully, it has kept the bottom cushion springs from completely rusting away. Quality reproductions are available but can be expensive. We can’t tell from this shot if the car has the optional electrically-actuated overdrive or not either, but the stubby gear lever indicates the transmission is present.
I actually find this picture relatively encouraging as things don’t appear to have been “messed with”. I’m sure much work will be needed under here, but it’s all simple enough that a home restorer, possibly with the help of some local Triumph club experts, can complete it. This is a “wet-liner” four-cylinder engine of 1991 cc (assuming it hasn’t been previously rebuilt or replaced with a 2138 cc TR4/4A engine).
I decided at the last minute to toss in a picture of the parts car for one specific reason: the sills look relatively solid. Perhaps this should be the shell you start with? Let us know if you decide to take on this backyard project find!
Good eye Jamie. Parts shell sure looks like a better starting point than the car itself, especially if it has a good frame. The complete car looks pretty rough. That and the hard top would make buying the package worthwhile.
Having a crank is very useful. Use to use it frequently to start my Landrover when the battery was flat; or at least without enough charge to turn the starter motor. The whiplash from the handle was lethal if you didn’t get your hand off the handle fast enough when the motor caught. And of course, there was the cheers from the gathered crowd, amazed and amused at this old fashion function!
It really hurts at times when you look at a car that was allowed to fall into such bad shape….
Kind of like a certain Triumph TR6 I know of,been sitting in the same spot(tree growing through the open door & out the window)for approximately 30 years now,sad sight for sure 😞
I agree with DelBoy – the whiplash from the crank start was indeed lethal! It was a crowd pleaser though! Once or maybe twice was enough for me on my 58 TR3
I broke my wrist cranking my MGA. The “story” about an engine burping while you start it, with the crank suddenly jolting away from your hand as it changes rotation in “back-fire,” came true for me faster than I could get my hand clear of the rotation. I feel lucky. People who hand crank airplanes face more hazard than I did.
There is a 63’ TR 3b on Hemmings that is road ready, it ends today in a couple of hours and the current bid is at $6100. For the amount of work this car needs anyone seriously considering an early TR should check it out.
I ran a shop that specialized in TR2 to TR6 cars, and I can confirm the top is an aftermarket Parrish Plastics top. The rear plexiglass window should still be available along with the rubber seals.
I suspect the current owner wisely picked up the extra donor body, from the looks of it I would repair what little rust it has and prepare the body to replace the rusted body shell.
The TR cars are one of the examples I suggest for people who are new to sports car restoration, as they are simple to repair, and ALL the parts are available, either NOS or reproduction.
This is not so much a car but a hobby and an opportunity – the opportunity to spend hours and hours and dollars and dollars to replicate a car that can probably be found as a good running example for half the restoration cost. Nonetheless, I hope some patient and well funded individual steps and and restores it . . . it will probably be done just before we’re truly in the midst of the total electrification of our collective fleets . . .
gotta be one of THE Best day’s selections (lookin at today’s ‘cover page’) plus great write ups. U guys went upa level in the publication world today, esp since the changes ahfew yrs ago w/the increased automation on site.
and here we have a vehicle w/those great lines carried forward from the late 30s merica/europe. Once done – what a pleasure to drive !!! A sensual experience !
chrlsful,
“Once done – what a pleasure to drive !!! A sensual experience!”
Yes, TR3 roadsters are cute to look at, and fun to take on a short pleasure drive when the weather is perfect. That said, have you ever owned or driven a TR3 for any extended time?
I ran a shop that specialized in repairing and restoring TR2 thru TR6 cars, and probably the #1 reason TR4, 250, and 6 owners told me they sold their TR3 roadster, and upgraded to their newer TR [or kept the TR3 for special short sunny day drives] was the TR3 was tiring to drive for long distances. I remember one former owner who said driving his Model T Ford roadster was easier and more enjoyable if he had more than a 2 hour drive to reach a car show.
And yes, they are a sensual experience, especially when it rains, and you get wet from the convertible top leaking across the top of the windshield and around the side curtains. And the sensation of side curtains rattling so loudly that talking to the person next to you meant you shouted. [They did all of this when they were brand new.]
Bill, I’m in a rather unusual position in that I’ve only driven a TR3 twice, both for short periods, but I have driven over 80,000 miles in my TR3-based Italia 2000. I can tell you that comfortable seats, a proper hardtop, overdrive, and roll-up windows go a long way toward civilizing the design; it makes me wonder what driving the Francorchamps variant with proper windows and a hardtop would be like. Have you ever driven one? Thanks for sharing your expertise!
49 years ago I used to drive my 1959 TR3 regularly from Burbank, California to Flagstaff, Arizona in all kinds of weather, including snow and summer heat! People have gotten too darn soft now!!
Chinga-Trailer,
Either getting too darn soft, or too darn OLD!
Hell, I remember taking the train to Hartford Connecticut about 1970 with the owner of a small restoration shop I used to help at [sweeping floors, cleaning parts, etc.], where we picked up a Bentley Speed Six open tourer [Vanden Plas body I think]. HE DROVE IT all the way down to Maryland on I-95 and I-495, in the middle of February, and I sat next to him huddled down for warmth. When he asked me if I wanted to go along on the trip and keep him company, I didn’t hesitate to say YES!
Back then no one used a trailer for an unrestored [but nice] old car like that, much less an ENCLOSED trailer! Would I have said yes knowing how rough the trip would be? Of course, I was an invincible 18 year old gearhead!
Jamie,
YES! I did have an opportunity to drive one back in about 1979, it was white with a red leather interior, and had I not checked out the engine compartment or put the car on a lift to check out the chassis, I would never have imagined it was a TR3b.
The owner had brought it to us hoping we might buy it, but he wanted way too much for us [I think he wanted about $5k].I’ve always thought the Italia 2000 GT may have been the impetus behind Triumph Standard’s decision to have the TR4 designed in Italy.
What a difference between the 2 cars, it’s as if the regular TR3 was a partially completed car.
OK Bill, I can’t exactly match that but I can come close. Twenty years ago I bought a rough project grade coachbuilt Mark VI out of Vancouver, Canada. This was in November, the winter weather was typical – cold, sleeting rain, wind and intermittent snow and I drove the car 300 miles back to Portland. But what makes it interesting is that I only had to go the first mile, maybe not even that far, to discover that there was a massive exhaust leak, coming up direct through the toe boards and shifter so to keep from being asphyxiated I had to open all four windows, turn the front vent wings to direct as much cold freezing and wet air into the car as possible for the 5+ hour drive back. Not as bad as when I drove another Mark VI though a Wyoming blizzard, also in November, but a different year and then there was the time I drove an unrestored Cobra roadster from Portland to. L.A. through the Siskiyou Mountains in a raging snowstorm. Common sense prevailed and I spent the night in Ashland, OR but the next morning had to dig the snow out of the uncovered interior with the motel room ice bucket! Bystanders, assuming it was a kit car were horrified to learn that no, it wasnt, but I nonchalantly stated, what’s the worry? aluminum doesn’t rust!