Here’s a car that’s older than most of us and looking for its next career: a 1930 Ford Model A rumble-seat coupe, listed on eBay, bid to $11,100, no reserve. The seller is Dean’s Hot Rods with 100% positive feedback for over a thousand sales. This car apparently was sold into California’s Central Valley and has been there from new. Other than wheels from a 1932 Model B, the car is said to be original and unrestored. It doesn’t run now, but the seller indicates it only needs a new battery and minor tinkering to make it purr once again. However you plan to tackle it, you’ll be going to Redding, California to pick it up.
The Model A was the first car completely built at Ford’s River Rouge Complex – a wonderment of industrial enterprise. It was also the first of Ford’s cars to wear the blue oval and have a conventional layout for clutch, brakes, and gas. The car’s four-cylinder engine was twice as powerful as the Model T’s, with forty horses on tap from 201 cu. in. Top speed was a theoretical 65 mph but given the primitive brakes, that much wind in your hair is probably not advisable. The three-speed gearbox is the sliding-mesh type, uncommon today. Ford was still using Babbitt poured bearings in 1930, so find your source for that expertise in case you need it! The Model A’s high ground clearance was handy since visiting your neighbor often meant fording a stream or motoring over rough “roads”.
This car’s interior has seen better days, but it’s not beyond repair. Aftermarket or home made seat covers, sagging door panels, modern rubber mats – all testify to someone’s regular use. The ignition switch appears to be missing. The rumble seat needs renovation. Normally, I don’t like the thought of fixing an interior and leaving a patina’d exterior because the new interior makes the outside look shabby. But in this case I would make an exception since this one’s paint is pretty fine! Sourcing the interior fabric isn’t difficult (try SMS), and there’s technical help for the rest of the seat, such as cotton batting, hog rings, springs and so forth.
For a 93 year old matron, this paint is not in bad shape. The bumpers need attention – would you paint those or re-chrome them? This car is already set to go home with a new owner; my fingers are crossed that it will be treated to a stock renovation, but of course it’s perfect fodder for a hot rodder.
Perfect little project to build a street rod over the winter. Too bad it’s so far away from me.
That’s a nice car, but for the ask you’d think that the seller might make it road legal.
Up here in Orygon I doubt you would need to anything to make it legal. WE don’t have to deal with garbage like vehicles being inspected. Just get an antique plate and you are set,
Doesn’t have to be a ‘Hot Rod’.. But instead, restore it to stock looking. Blue, green or burgundy with black fenders. Modern electrics, brakes & drive train (Ford V6 or small block V8 w/auto
trans ) for reliability. Comfortable seats and nice sensible tire and wheel combo. What a great ride it could be without going over the top.
I might put modern-ish juice brakes and 12 volt electrics, but these little 4 bangers can be hot rodded.
Everyone and their uncle has an A Model or a Deuce with a 350/350 combo. You can go from mild to wild with that little 4. Put a late-model 5-speed, out of, say an S-10… and you got a cool ride that you won’t see at every car show.
I’d vote for leaving it just as it sits but have the block machined to take new bearings, put a ’39 transmission in it, fix the interior and go drive it. If you insist on more power it is easy to put at least 150 hp in it without breaking the bank.
Don’t forget when you make engine/transmission swaps you have to deal with replacing the torque tube, then the rear axel…
The mechanical brakes are just fine if they are properly adjusted. Juice brakes with the same drum and shoes don’t make it stop any faster. Why convert to 12 volts? The lights are more easily made brighter with LED bulbs.That saves replacing the wiring harness, starter, bulbs and on and on. I say sort out the mechanicals and interior and enjoy.
Juice brakes definitely do make a difference. At any speed above 40 mph the pedal pressure in a panic stop is considerably reduced by hydraulic brakes. I know, I had to panic stop a 29 pickup one day and it seemed to take forever to stop it, and a pickup is one of the lightest A’s. After adding hydraulic brakes I could instantly lock up the brakes. No comparison.
’39 transmission is a bolt- in as the cars had the torque tube drive in them. The brake upgrade is a good one as the ’40’s hydraulics are almost a bolt-on and the drums are pretty similar to originals.
10+/- hour drive one way to go get it so weekend trip at $11k for this condition its selling a little high but still a fun toy to get
Translate this…into truth…
“only needs a new battery and minor tinkering to make it purr”
LS motor…. No I don’t think it belongs in this car just wanted to be the first person to put LS in the comments. Lol
Redding is my home town. I grew up off Quartz Hill Rd. near the Old Diiggins
Gold and Silver mine. My dad had 120 acres back there and a neighbor behind us had a Model A coupe like this but with an aftermarket pickup bed added on. This time of year it’s probably over 100* F everyday. I wish I was in better shape I’d love to make the trek out there and take a look at this gem.
God Bless America
That’s not a rumble seat. At least the deck lid isn’t.
David Frank comment>>>”juice brakes don’t make it stop any faster” is
way wrong.
I grew up in the 50s//60s and 39-40 brakes were WAY better.
I drove many As’ with both set ups >bangers or A v/8s. There is definitely a difference in S F on the hills or QUICK stops on the flats, period.
Dean let it go for $11k, going to be a hot rod in some form, plenty of stockers out there.
This appears to be an above average Model A but still it is probably over priced. It would be an excellent candidate for an old school Hot Rod. But as I read the comments of other readers and what they would do with the car ,I am shocked at the ease they throw these comments out. Things like hydraulic brakes, 5-seed trans, modernized 4-banger, built Flathead, just do all this easy simple stuff and drive it. Its comical when you think about it, have they ever built anything and understand how expensive it is. 11 for the car, engine, transmission, brakes, suspension and rear end,10 to 15 depending on your decisions. keep cosmetics to a minimum just tires ,wheels ,paint and upholstery necessities at least 3. You will be pushing 30 k and that’s if you get everything super cheap and you do it all yourself. The reality of building a car is allot harder than just thinking about what you would do. I am being honest and I have had a bunch of cars and I have never under estimated what I thought it was going to cost. Yet I keep doing it and I advise other people and it doesn’t stop anyone. Just be honest and think about it.
Aside from what this car is or where it goes mechanical brakes are no match for juice brakes…unless you want to drive at 25-35 on the flats, on a farm. After the 30s most people that were current went to juice brakes cause they were safer//better.
I have had and been around Model As all my life. Still have a hot rodded stock body one.Times have changed and an original car now is more rare and all the considerations need to be taken into account as they are more valuable now.