Chrysler introduced its new E-body platform in 1970, reserved for the Plymouth Barracuda and the new Dodge Challenger. The two cars had different sheet metal and rode on different wheelbases, so they weren’t exact copies of one another. The Challenger was the last competitor to enter the “pony car” market and changing demand meant that the 1970 model year would be its best. This ’70 Challenger may have been a rather ordinary edition when built with a 318 cubic inch V8 and no power assistance. It’s rusty now, but we’re told it sounds great (that must also mean it runs well).
Dodge moved 76,935 Challengers in 1970. And 36,953 had a V8 engine in a coupe that wasn’t an R/T or T/A model. So, the seller’s car was the launching pad if you wanted something other than the Slant Six to power your machine. Both the Dodge and the Barracuda would take a big hit in sales in 1971, likely because the performance stigma related to the genre meant higher insurance premiums if your car breathed fire from the factory.
We don’t know the history of this Challenger. If the 72,000 miles on the odometer are accurate, it may have seen less and less use as it entered old age. There is rust here and there on the sheet metal, but the floorboards may be okay and look to have been painted. There is a hole in the trunk to be addressed as well. So, this car will have to spend some time in the body shop if you decide to restore it.
The interior will need a refresh, too. The front bucket seats don’t match the rear seat, suggesting they were borrowed from another Mopar. For a small engine with an automatic transmission, it’s interesting that posi-traction was ordered but not much else extra. The car’s ignition has been upgraded to MSD and the amount of bling under the hood suggests maybe more. From Litchfield, Kentucky, this Dodge is available here on eBay where $5,600 is the current bid with the reserve still unmet.
Hmm this has a similarity to a Ramones band going to the next song with no gaps on breaths in its write up.
Its a 1970 year mopar and a great year.. The vehicle needs lower quarters panels and floor boards in back…
This also needs interior with no mention of underneath of the car shape.
I know this lil town from my youth as i lived lessed than 30 miles away to run my 69 Z28 hard and drag on weekends.
Those were the days when a non rusty Challenger was $400 with the 318.
Good luck on sale of vehicle.
I hope she gets restored .
Just to be clear .. i am referring to ebay description on Ramones comments of no breaks in writing
Engine has been prrviously out as evidenced by awful black painted engine compartment (should be body color). Also aftermarket oversized radiator (cooling issue after rebuild overbore?). Trunk pan and floor pans need replacing ( see makeshift patches) and inner rear wheel wells were cut into at some point. Rear bumper is full of rust and holes in much of the body sheet metal. Perhaps a $10K car at best and I grimace even estimating that high. Contrary to seller’s claim, a 318 auto will never be “a high dollar ride”, yet the cost to restore all this won’t be much different than restoring an R/T with a 440/ 4speed that will be worth 3X this one when restored.
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This car also needs deck filler panel, trunk lid, at least one inner fender, plus everything previously mentioned. And, I’m sure a lot more bodywork once its stripped down past the original green paint. Doesn’t just need lower quarters, it probably needs full quarters, and you’d be better off and probably pay less to just have the full quarters replaced.
Not even close to “pretty solid” as the ad states. I guarantee this car needs minimum $10k of rust repair alone, not counting the actual body panels, unless you can do it yourself. I’m being nice. I bet it’s closer to $15k+ in rust repair plus parts if it’s as bad as it looks to me.
All for a 318 car? Anyone touching this thing is going to be immediately upside-down before they start on anything else. Now, if you can do it yourself, and it’s a labor of love, sure. But don’t underestimate bodywork costs, if you can even find someone reliable and good (and half affordable) at all.
Plus fender patches (minimum, possibly full fenders). By the way, I could be convinced that it needs only lower quarters, but without inspection, I’d assume full. And either way, with aftermarket fit such as it is, often full quarter replacement is cheaper anyway in the end. On top of all that, add the Mopar tax then add the E-body premium on top of the Mopar tax too.