It’s already happening: exotic and collector cars devastated by the historic storm surge caused by Hurricane Ian are showing up for sale. We’ve all seen the photos of the Plymouth Superbirds dropped like a Tonka truck on its roof outside the multi-million dollar beachfront home and quickly calmed ourselves down knowing the wealthy property owner’s insurance policy will more than cover his losses. However, there are apparently instances where the owner of a specialty car decides a revival isn’t worth pursuing (or their insurance company does), such as with this pretty 1954 Jaguar XK140 listed here on Copart as an upcoming lot.
Thanks to Barn Finds reader GIPPY for sending this one in. It’s easy to play armchair quarterback regarding the safe removal and storage of collector vehicles lying in the path of a storm. I know at first I was shocked at these owners with seemingly unlimited means not being able to scare up a truck and trailer a few days before the storm. Of course, Ian shifted further south than expected, which put a lot of property owners in a jam. And, given how many of those houses were second and third homes, it’s possible they weren’t even in the area. All told, it’s not all that impossible to see how some cars were sacrificial lambs for the hurricane’s storm surge. Note the ACK sticker on the back – I’ll bet this owner wishes the Jaguar was parked on Nantucket that weekend.
While flood cars don’t look terrible from a distance, the up-close details are usually pretty unpleasant. The mold sets in quickly, especially when the moisture has nowhere to escape. The carpets are clearly stained here, and the already-sensitive British electronics and wiring were almost certainly destroyed by the salt water. The leather and wood trim may look fine in the photos, but really, the damage is more than skin-deep in a flood car like this one. Given there’s no evidence of significant bodywork damage, I would assume this Jaguar simply sat in water likely up to its doors for the duration of the storm.
WL – is this a salvage yard abbreviation that explains just how wrecked this Jaguar is or is it the initials of someone from Copart who already lay claim to it? The lighthouse sticker is an odd decorative choice for a vehicle that is usually put on a pedestal and restored to factory (or better) condition. So, small details like these make it seem more likely that this XK140 was someone’s weekend toy that wasn’t a regular invitee to Pebble Beach. See that moisture on the glass? Ugh. Flood cars are major undertakings and while this Jaguar will likely be restored, perhaps the previous owner was wise to not go down a restoration rabbit hole versus buying a replacement.
What a shame, and it’s the second flooded XK this week on BF.
For me, the XK’s are among the best-looking cars ever produced.
From the comments on the previous XK post, I can assume this is not salvageable? Or maybe it is….
The title status on Copart just says FL, which I assume means flooded?
Anyway, a terrible fate for such gorgeous cars.
That WL sticker means that was the waterline….so sad for all these folks and the ones who lost more than just a car.
A knock out car, so sad.
A ’54 would be a 120 and this is a 140.
The under hood concoction is something else. The front wheel well openings are too small (fiberglass) but still it’s has most all the details.Are those 5 bolt wire wheels? Those spinners are not likely hammerable
Is there a missing vent flap on the driver’s side too?
Xk140 model was manufactured between 1954-1957.
Before we get our undies in a bundle, relax, I think it’s a replica. Looks like a Jeep motor(?), tilt wheel, gauges, Jag purists shouldn’t be too alarmed.
On a related note, never been an overly religious man, prayers aren’t going to restore these peoples lives. What Ian blew east, Nichole blew back west. Unfortunate situation. I’m not crying too loud , Florida has lots of money, but lives and belongings can’t be replaced. I think there’s a lesson to be learned there.
BINGO! What Howard A said, plus the shift lever is wrong (XKs had a short, vertical lever), and there’s nary a single SU to be seen under the hood. Whatever that engine is, it appears to be either pushrod or SOHC.
And least the body won’t rust! Hose it off, and the exterior cosmetics are halfway to their former glory!
Sure, the bodywork’s aluminium but the chassis will have filled with seawater and that’s not something that can be cured. Such a shame nevertheless. What a beauty, even if it is a mash up of modern ‘oily bits’.
The windshield frame looks wrong too…molded into the body?
No Lucas or Smith gauges either.
HoA strikes again! Replicars are such a weird deal. This car should be tooling around in Seinfelds ‘Bizarro Jerry’ episode.
Too bad it wasn’t rain water. Punta Gorda was completely under sea water and did as much damage as you could imagine to a very large area.
I am willing to adopt and take in a 1967-1968 Shelby GT500
I promise to get it running and drive it like I stole weekly too.
I think jack rabbit starts will throw any salt left off.
The body is not aluminum, only parts of it. Hood, and if I recall, doors. Quarters and frame made of postwar English steel. Some of you will understand what that signifies. It isn’t pretty.
The bodywork on this replica most probably is fiberglass. It would be too expensive to do in steel and aluminum.
Not a real xk, but certainly someone lost a nice kit car
Hard to figure this one- it has a lot of “kit car” evidence- engine, steering column gauges etc. But I have never seen a drophead kit car before- there is too much manufacturing involved in the top frame, doors and roll up windows. I suspect this may be a hybrid – an original 140 that was maybe missing the engine and someone added some modern components. COPART will not provide any information, so the only way to know for sure is to go to their lot and inspect it yourself.
I’m in central florida home of some of the biggest auto auctions and 45,000 cars and trucks with flood damage have already been sold to unsuspecting victims. There are warnings out everywhere, simply use your nose. Mildew cannot be covered up. Watch for a ton of air fresheners or carpet shampoo to mask the arid smells. Flood cars are total losses. You literally have to replace all materials water damaged.
So may I kindly say RUN AWAY!
I’m sure one of you will correct me if I’m wrong, but I always thought a flood car in fresh water was salvageable but a flood car in Salt water wasn’t?
Thanks to Ian, there will probably be a sh*tload of cars showing up from the flood. Such a shame.
Hi ACD, I can’t find any distinction on selling a flood damaged vehicle, salt or fresh water. Generally, it’s illegal to sell any flood damaged car, without disclosure. That’s where the vultures move in. While you’d have to be pretty stupid to buy a car that was completely submerged, there are instances like here, where someone might not ever know it was partially under water until later. It sure LOOKS presentable. Most of these cars are sold as is, and as usual, buyer beware.
I would then no that anything is salvageable if a person has the mens and desire. Salt definitely puts a damper on it though.
And thats the problem, Howard, most won’t disclose its a flood car. My distinction with salt water and fresh water is, just like salt roads in the upper east, wouldn’t a car under salt water, even for a short time have the same rust results? Especially in the engine, where fresh water wouldn’t really be that detrimental to the engine.
I used to live in Florida for 7 years back in the 70s, and I’d quite often take my ’71 Imperial to Daytona Beach and drive on the sand and salt water. Fortunately, I traded it in before the rust really started to show.
This car was destroyed and ceased to be a Jaguar long before the hurricane – it’s someone’s old V8 hot rod. First telltale – the tilt steering column.
I don’t know these cars well enough to know if its a original or not but if its original getting it back on the road will be easy because it doesn’t have all that computer control crap the cars today have but you still need to blow it apart to clean everything its amazing the little nooks that flood mud can get into. Copart says its clean value is $119,500 so it will be interesting to see what it sells for.
That value could only apply to an original Jaguar. Which this is not.
Like other posters, I’m stumped as to what it is. Particularly why someone chose the single least attracive XK variant to replicate.
We had one just like this one except in BRG on consignment sale at the museum where I volunteer, someone makes a kit.
I have quite a bit of experience in this area. I just lost a 63’ NovaSS convertible that was parked in my garage in Barefoot Beach Bonita Springs, FL. My Nova had an LS-3 with L65E transmission, Ford 9” rear end with posi. Heidt front clip with coilovers and a 4 link rear and Wilwood discs all around. I am on the intercoastal and got hit with a 12’ wall of water leaving my Nova in 8’ of SALTWATER. Talked to my buddy who is the auto body professor at the local community college in MI. He said a salt water flooded car HAS-to be chemically dipped to hope to save all the pinch welds and then there is no guarantee of no rust perforation. He said since my engine and tranny are electronic rebuilding is a waste of time especially with an aluminum block and heads. He said buying a classic or any used car at auction right now would be a fools errand. Hagerty insurance looked at 5 pictures my home watch guy took and totaled my Nova and gave me what I insured for 5 years ago. My bad. It was probably worth 20K more in this crazy market. ACD you are right as rain, my buddy said restoring a salt water car is not worth it, because recovering the value with a total rotisserie restoration is tough unless it’s a family heirloom. My next door neighbor lost a 63’ spilt window Vette in the Hurricane, but I think he is going to get it restored. He said frame off, powder coated frame. Fiberglass doesn’t rust but frames do.
Yes unless the owner has very personal attachment to a car from a saltwater flood and deep pockets, it definitely makes more sense to buy another one that is finished.
Concerning the pinch welds, it’s really no different than a vehicle from the rust belt that has had liquified road salt laying on them and running down between the sheet metal.
I’ve used Oxysolve quite a bit and it is great for spraying areas like that. It runs down where the salt would and kills the rust.
I personally have a lot of emotional attachment to some of my cars so this would be devastating. My heart goes out to all these cars and their owners.
My biggest issue was Hagerty wanted 15K to buy my Nova back. My restoration shop said minimum 60k for a full rotisserie and probably closer to 75K. 75k to 90K for a car I would never be able to get more than 50K for made no sense unless it was my car from high school.
Jeff, your title line should really be “Replica Jaguar” because that’s all it is. If adequately insured by the owner, there’s no tragedy here.
REPLICA: https://www.specialtyauto.com/xk140_dhc_jaguar.htm
No replica gets the wooden dash and seats correct. This is a hot-rodded (one-time) original.
Thank-you for finding the manufacturer. They really did an excellent job with the exterior cosmetics. The bumpers, grill, and some other items look like they are sourced from Jaguar restoration suppliers. The interior didn’t have quite the same attention to detail. They could have gotten new classic Smith’s gauges and gotten even closer to the real thing.
Their 57 Speedster Replica for $37k looks pretty good too.
https://www.specialtyauto.com/P8250001.JPG
Finders,
This is a REPLICA !
This is going to be one of Specialty Auto-Sports fibreglass replicas, with Chrysler 4.0 litre fuel injected engine, auto trans, discs all-round, bolt-on wire wheels, etc.
They used to sell at US$52,000 new. You can see the speedo is a ‘Classic Instruments’ unit and the steering wheel is the same as theirs.Also note the water intrusion into the speedo, what a nightmare for a future [possibly unsuspecting] owner if this gets restored. Unfortunately this is going to cost a whole lot more to restore than it will ever be worth and the chassis will be compromised with salt water intrusion forever no matter how much it is treated
I wonder if the auction listing for “Est. Retail Value” of $119,572.50 is based on an insurance company’s Agreed Value Insurance policy payout. That is close to the value of some good condition originals.
Didn’t anybody notice the thick steering column which tilts? Likely a GM unit.
Copart is looking bad here. The title should tell them that it’s not a real 1954 Jaguar. Most states will not let you title a reproduction as a real car. If that doesn’t give Copart a clue, they list the mileage as original at 6000+. They have to know that it’s not an original car. Also they don’t list the VIN number in their ad. That would give away what it really is. Mark Mitchell’s link says that complete ones sell for $52K new, but that may be an old price.
Too bad it was in salt water, at this point every piece of metal under the fiberglass is corroded. Just like a Corvette, there has to be steel under the fiberglass for strength. Now it’s rusty steel. If it had been in fresh water it might be a good candidate for a resto mod.
As Terrylee86 pointed out, keep your stated value insurance up to date. Some insurance companies will send you a reminder, some don’t. It’s easy to get burned for $20K per car if you have let it slide for a few years. I updated mine last year after a 60′ tree fell and just missed my storage building. No hurricanes in Western PA, but a falling tree is almost as bad.
@Camaro Joe Yes, as you imply, some states, such as mine, will let you title a reproduction as a real car with the name and year of the car it is a reproduction of going on the title. I do not know if Florida is one of those states also.
Water, whether salt or fresh, does it’s worst damage IF the system is energized while still wet. Such it is with any electrical component.
My day job for the last 25 years has been in home restoration after fires and floods, specializing in people’s contents, the stuff INSIDE the house. I have certifications in electronic restoration. As a matter of fact, we use water.. de-ionized water, to decontaminate electronic devices from soot and water. We save furniture, wood, cloth, foam stuffing, etc, via specialized steam cleaners and hydroxyl/ozone machines. We also use antimicrobials and fungicides to remove/kill mold.
RE these cars coming out of the flooded regions of FL, they can easily be restored, especially the older cars with simplistic electrical systems (some of the newer Jags seen below the “XK140” on CoPart would be a little more difficult given their much more complex electronics/computers, etc).
The flooded issue in reality, is more a stigma than a real death knell.
While this 140, by all appearances is not a real 140, might not be worth the efforts and money to bring her back to life, the one from the other day most certainly would be… We have all seen cars in much worse condition be restored, just look at some of the rusted Porsche hulks we’ve seen on these pages.
The major issue for some wouldn’t be the car, but the title attached to it, with a “salvage” or “Cert of Destruction” stamp in bright red… However, there are multiple ways around that… CT, for one, doesn’t title or require titles for vehicles 20 years old or older… There are many states these days that do not.
If I had the time, a $20,000 flood damaged 120 would be sitting in my garage now.
This is a bad replica with wrong measures.
Dispose it.
Vehicles with a total loss or, as in this case, water damage, should be disposed of, not sold to unsuspecting people looking for an ‘offer’. It is incomprehensible to me that copart also exports such vehicles knowing
that they mostly have irreparable accident damage. That’s how it is known, but it is irresponsible! In most cases, they have not been repaired properly – if it could still be repaired. As the insurance companies’ crash tests show.
This is life-threatening. For themselves and other road users.
Fortunately, we have regular technical inspections that take such rotten eggs out of circulation for ever.
WL assuming it means water level.
It’s definitely a replica with the Jeep motor and fiberglass body. Nice looking and well done, but realistically just for the type who likes the look but is not a dedicated Jaguar person who appreciates all the quirks. It would be a good buy at 15-20K for someone who likes kits. A dangerous offering for someone who thinks it’s real and pays accordingly.
I saw this listed with copart QUITE some time ago. Saw that it had been underwater and decided to not bid. Possibly this was relisted? If this is a replica, maybe the high bidder backed out?