The appeal of the 1969 Camaro escapes the boundaries of automobile enthusiasm. Common citizens who let gorillas at the corner Oil-o-Rama change their Camry’s critical lubricant dream of hitting the lottery and buying an immaculate 1969 Camaro, and why not? Among 1969 Camaros, the Z/28 is even more interesting. This 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 in Corvette Mecca Bowling Green, Kentucky, seeks a new owner here on eBay where winners of a small lottery can click Buy It Now for a mere $40,000.
Though not shown in the listing, the interior appears to be the attractive white-and-black combination, a refreshing upgrade to the typical all-black look. For $40,000, buyers might appreciate more than two pictures (one sideways) and a few words of description. However a 1969 Z/28 “sells itself” to some extent. Some sellers simply park a car in their yard with no “For Sale” sign knowing that serious buyers will blow by formalities and bang on their door to ask the price.
Before the Z/28 became more of a sport package, it was Chevy’s offering for teams and individuals with road-racing in mind, thus the high-revving 302 cid (5.0L) “DZ” engine installed when the Trans Am racing series had a 305 cid limit. This Camaro retains its original four-speed manual transmission and 12 bolt rear end. Its born-with engine is gone, replaced by a CE-stamped replacement. “CE” (Chevrolet Engine) indicates a warranty replacement from the first five years after sale. Thanks to chevelles.com for some details. How do you rate the $40,000 starting point for this “as-is” road-racing pony car?
My mind is warping. $40,000 for a Z28 doesn’t seem so bad.
Buy one,Fix-up, think smart??????
I’d love to restore this ! My favorite year ! I was digging around the marina where I work and found a set of double hump sb heads, imagine my surprise to find #3917291 C-12-8 194″ valve (3-12-68) heads (302-327-350) hipo heads. Not sure if I’m keeping them for a build or sell them to get my Big block into the shop !
Maybe most of you are younger than I think, but all HiPo SBCs came with 2.02 and 1.60 in and ex valves. Anything with a 1.94 intake was no more than what is called a power-pak head. All the FI and solid lifter 4bbl engines had all the good stuff. So called double hump heads are meaningless until you measure the valves. The best of course were the LT1 heads on those 1970 engines as far as production engines went. The somewhat better ones were the over the counter angle plug heads.
The angle plug head were designed to give better access to the spark plugs when using headers my l ast Camaro had them.
Yeah the angle plug heads helped with getting to the spark plugs but the position of the electrode in the combustion chamber is where the performance gains were,”The HO or L98 cylinder head’s angled spark plugs are aimed at the exhaust valves and positioned closer to the roof of the chamber. The practice of placing the plug in the path of maximum turbulence to promote efficient flame travel was initiated by Chevrolet in their early high performance heads; most modern aftermarket aluminum head manufacturers have followed”.
the double hump and power pack heads all had small combustion chambers, an important distinction since it raised the compression ratio. but yes ultra high performance motor like this Z came with 202 intake valves.
The angle plug heads performance gains were more theory than actual performance. They were the talk of the town when they first came out, but quickly faded away. I just sold a 350 with a set on it.
Possibly and arguably the most famous Camaro ever built…the ’69 Z/28. Always had been a bit out of my price range even thirty plus years ago, still is.
I’m not surprised the original engine gave up within five years, even that seems like a stretch.
Yea Troy I was thinking the same thing about the original Mill being Gone. I’m sure the engine and the Z both had a hard life- heck it was built to have the snot run out of it!! Not sure if its worth the 40 large, but seems as close as you can get to an original. anyhoo- if the this one sells for 40 grand, that means its worth it to the buyer. Good luck to the new owner!
Cheers
GPC
Back in my high school days, my buddy purchased a 1969 Z28/RS for $700.00. The car ran and drove okay but the engine was a bit tired. He rebuilt it in his garage and had one of the quickest cars at school. The car met an untimely death about 2 years later when a lady t-boned him.
The best model Carmaro ever built but I can’t imagine it being worth that with the original 302 gone!! Heck that’s what made it a Z-28!!!
Back in high school all my friends had either camaros, mustangs, or assorted mopars. I found a 69 firebird with a blown engine and bought it for $300. I found a 68 GTO in a junkyard with a good engine, bought that engine for $80 and dropped it in. What a car. Ever since then I’ve been partial to the 69 firebird over the 69 camaro. Both are great cars and maybe it’s just nostalgia, but I’ve often wondered why the 69 firebird 400 doesn’t get the same adulation as a 69 camaro. Hope someone enjoys this restoration project. By the way, during those midnight street races I never lost to a camaro.
I can see why that engine didn’t last. With a change to 4.10 gears, surprise it lasted that long! My 66 SS396 had factory 4.10 in them and the car had a replacement engine and trans when I bought it.
40 large is kind of steep for a car that needs restoring.
$40k to me seems reasonable, not great, not bad, but these will continue to go up in value. Having a CE engine block is the next best thing to #’s matching.
A mint ’69 Z/28 Camaro numbers matching with the factory ZL2 cowl induction hood and certified by Jerry MacNeish sold at Barrett-Jackson this weekend for $65,000. Sadly, had the car been a restomod, it probably would have sold for much more.
I see a lot of these classics going down into the mid 20s. Face the facts. A restomod has dependable drivetrains with much less tempermental, higher horse, reliable engines, upgraded braking systems, suspension’s, electronics, etc than what we ‘stoneage’ drivers were used to. As we dissapeared into the same fate as WWII vets over the next 5-10 yrs, that leaves the ‘new’ gen, safe-spacers, that can’t turn a wrench or pull start a lawn mower, out there in the marketplace. Theyll be looking at the 69 Z28 & the ’19 ZL1 side by side & thinking the same thing I thought when 17 back in the day, looking at my choices, a ’55 Chevy 283 or a 70 Chevelle SS454. Had the latter of course.
Actually 65K is way on the low side. Get on Hemmings web site and check it out. Some guys are wanting closer to 100K
@ Lynn or Rough Diamond, But if one sold at auction that was original with good paint and in good condition do you, in your opinion think this one with it needing paint and no original motor think it’s worth 40k???? I’m just asking because it seems to me like every one is swinging for the fence everytime!! In the long run it only hurts the hobby!!!
I see what u r trying to say. I guess u want to buy for less and if u r selling u want more. Those Z/28’s on the Hemmings web site, a few said the privce was negotionable. Me personally, I have told my wife to smack me if I ever say I want to buy another one that needs anything so I would spend my kids inheritance and go for the high end but then I w would be afraid to drive it. So u really can’t win.
What you want and what you get are two different things.
Truer words were never spoken
This to me, is about peak perfect, emission controls setting in, early 60s to late was prime small block time. What a great design, basically a 327 block, short stroke, power packed heads. Still easy to work on, pre electronic and emission mess. Hot rodders heaven.
I would polish this beauty, fix any maintenance items and proudly drive this to cruise night with my head held high. At most I’d find a paint-pro to fix the front fender and match the paint. Don’t get me wrong, I like beautifully restored Z28’s as much as everyone else who commented but there aren’t many unrestored ones like this left out there.
A 9/16 open end wrench and a straight blade screwdriver to adjust the carb floats and a timing light and distributor wrench to set the timing and dwell tachometer for the points. Don’t forget a golf tee to block the vacuum advance. Those were the days!!! How many guys still own a timing light?
Nailed it.
Most of the tools I needed were in a Craftsman toolbox I could toss in the trunk, except my torque wrench which was too long.
Yes, still have my timing light and analog volt meter.
All that and the clips for the rocker arms when you run the valves to control squirting oil . I’d love to call this Z mine but I have that disease, “FUNDZALOW”.
That’s the thing I let the mechanic do. He told me he actually liked doing the valves because it didn’t take him an hr to get to them like it did with all the emission hoses on the the newer cars at the time
Yup i do, not that i have anything to use it on anymore but i keep around anyway. Just pull out a timing light in any pit area, staging lane at any dragstrip in America and watch the head scratching 👴
How many of you still have the sheet metal tool box you made in 9th grade shop class? For many years all the tools I needed fit in that box that resided in my trunk ( or behind the seat of a 67 ElCamino). Swapped many engines or transmissions or pulled what I was buying in a junkyard using only the tools in that little box.
I much preferred Chevelle’s to Camaros, but while in college in late ’74, I haunted the salvage yard in the small college town I lived in. They had a ’69 Z28 wrecked in the right rear and wanted $800.00 for it including a used rear quarter panel to repair. I offered $300.00 for the engine but they wouldn’t bite so I passed on buying the whole car. It was yellow with white stripes and a yellow houndstooth interior. I thought it was pretty hideous, but today would attract a lot of attention. Wonder if it was ever brought back to life or parted out?
One on Hemmings web site right now that fits that description. It might have a vinyl top too.
I don’t believe auctions are a good barometer of car values. All it takes is 2 people a little liquored up that both want the car and the car ends up well over what it should bring. Conversely, a no reserve car that doesn’t get the attention for whatever reason can sell low. It could be the color, it could be a nagging spouse, it could be the two drunks are at the bar and missed a deal. Auctions do show trends and future trends. An inexpensive Z/28, even with a CE engine would be just fine with me, especially with all the documentation, POP plate, etc. If I didnt have three other project cars right now I probably would have bought it. Oh, I have two timing lights, 2 dwell/RPM meters, a vacuum gauge, feeler gauges for the points, and a round wire spark plug gapper, a flex shaft allen driver for the GM points setting, and a distributor wrench, and yes, the infamous golf tee!
Couldn’t afford one.
You can ask price you want for a car but 40K for a car without the original engine and needs to be restored is not a good investment. Buy it,restore it,drive it occasionally,then try and sell it and suffer a loss. Nothing special enough about this car to make it worth the investment.
Whatta crappy listing. 2 sideways (SIDEWAYS!) pics with limited description and wants top $. Geez.
The link will take u to the eBay site.
The listing (the link) was what I was referring to!
I agree. Not much by way of pics. I would need to see the car in person
Hey, we used 273 solid rockers with hydraulic lifters in our race 340s just turn down about a half turn, never float the valves. 1970s low budget racing. I was like, 19? You do with what you’ve got until you can afford what you want..
Ended:Oct 07, 2019 , 3:03PM
Price:US $40,000.00
$20,000 tops based on the pics and info……..
That’s about what I was thinking. Max $25,000. Then I would need to buy the cowl induction hood and the correct air cleaner so maybe $20,000 is closer to max.
Very cool car, Not something likely to come available every week. The supply of original cars is small, and getting smaller. The supply of restored and tribute cars is ever increasing. The law of supply and demand make this buy seem like not only the right thing to do, but the smart thing to do. No need to do anything but make it road worthy, and clean it to your taste. Well bought.
CE means “counter exchange “
Started in 67 for Chevy to keep track of warranty replacement engine costs. Chevy Engine.
Oops, heard of both
Add “Crate Engine” to the mix, but I think the term crate engine, at least on the Chevy side was used much later than the other two. It’s always a fun discussion when 3 people have different interpretations and each person claims they are right!
When I sold Chevy parts back in the early ’70s the zone office told us that the “C E A” that was stamped on the pad stood for “Crated Engine Assembly” and the vin # of the car receiving this short block, long block under warranty was to be stamped there, we sold mostly all of them over the counter to hot rod guys, unlike later on when I worked for a Caddy dealer and all the 4.1’s went thru our shop.
427
👍lol I hear ya, set of sockets and a swivel ratchet. Combo open box wrenches. I remember buying my first set of vice grips, great tool, don’t know how many broken muffler clamps, loose fenders, bumpers I clamped together to get me back to the garage with those. Those were the days, thanks for the memories.
For 40 grand wait; go to a auction find one ready to go?
Very hard to find a real 69 Z28 in ready to go condition for $40,000…..heck it’s even hard to find a good fake 69 Z28 in turn key condition for $40,000.
Finally
Go to auction and get a better deal, Already fix- up pay up 60,000.00 bucks and you are good to go?????????????? P.S Think About
Lynn Dockery, the angle plug design was built as a way to gain additional performance, not for eases of changing plugs. On some header designs, it did indeed make changing plugs easier, but on others it did not make it any easier at all, in fact, made some even more difficult.
It’s Dockey. T y