I’ve recently acquired a new project of which I have little insight into its mechanical history. I’m a long ways from diving into it, but I hope to find out in the next few months what I’ve gotten myself into. When I see listings for cars like this 1969 Jaguar E-Type here on eBay that was acquired from an estate with a seized engine, I do get a bit worried – what will I find when we go to see if the motor spins freely? At least this desirable E-Type coupe already has that question answered.
For my particular project, replacement engines are plentiful even if the worst-case scenario is discovered (and before anyone harps on me, as is often the case lately, the project was acquired at a cost of free, so any calamities are not a big concern). For a 1969 E-Type, finding a replacement mill might be harder – unless you go the route of an engine swap, where everything from LSx mills to inline-sixes from a Cressida or Supra are considered fair game.
However, it seems a shame to distort the originality of a non-2+2 car with a manual transmission. All of the other boxes are checked with this one, aside from it being a later model. If provenance is your game, rebuilding the factory motor is the way to go, but the seller does point out some other issues that may make it too costly to restore the “right” way: he mentions the floors are rusted out and there’s some unspecified damage under the hood.
In addition, he admits to knowing little of its history. Several spares are included, such as a new gas tank, floors, exhaust system, battery tray and left side outer sill. With the replacement parts needed to address the bodywork, at least some of the hard work is done. That being said, rebuilding an engine and installing new floors/sills is no small feat, but the current bidding at $11K with no reserve leaves plenty of room to restore and enjoy without losing your shirt.
If the posted milage is correct it would be worth the time and effort to see if the engine could be broken free using the usual tricks. This I a good candidate for a skilled DIY guy and the price based on what this is is reasonable. Not every engine needs to be rebuilt sometime a close inspection will reveal what it needs to be a running engine again. As for floors a tig and tig skills would be an asset however you could get by with a mig too. The other thing is not all cars need to be concourse quality a good driver quality car to me is more appealing as there is less concern over getting it out and using it for its intended purpose, after all aren’t you going to want to drive this if you own it. I would and every chance I got I’d be in it rolling down the road.
I agree. There are tricks to try to free the engine. If the engine can be salvaged, it could be a smoking deal.
Always frown of disassembled parts in boxes 📦. Then hope all is withon boxes as one didn’t document the disassembly ….
It’s a beautiful car restored
Hopefully not smoking!
oil in the cylinders. See if there is anyway you could pump oil thru the engine with the oil pump, or external pressure pump, I’m sure the carbs might be gunked but go slow and easy. Run it off an external fuel pump. Rebuilding one of these isn’t for the faint of heart.
Good luck!!!
Why swap the engine and reduce the value by 1/2? These engines are robust. Pull the head, free it up, and go from there. I once had a 1956 XK 140 drive into the shop, with a rod hanging out the right side of the block. That did require a repalcement. Since the 1960’s i have seen very few blown up 3.4, 3.8, or 4.2 Jag engines.
Pop the plugs and pour Marvel into each cylinder. Let it sit a week. With it in gear rock car back and forth. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. These engines are really not that complex if you are a mechanical person. It is still just an engine with Pistons that go up and down and cams that open valves. If you have to open it up it is not rocket science.
At the current price this is a great deal and a really good project car.
All I’m going to say is that I have a concours 66 coupe,and an LS3 powered 69.
I drive the “badkitty” (yes,that’s the plate) 100 miles to every one of the 6 cyl car.
I would be more worried about the rot underneath, and the quality of workmanship to repair it than the engine which I would try to keep original. Days/weeks of soaking the bores may free it off if you can wait that long.
I have a identical ‘69 coupe apart for paint. Nicely optioned coupes are rare. Motor work and engine detail are done. Should be nice to see what this goes for?
Engine freeze.50 atf 50 acetone. Works wonders.
I have an as new, rebuilt, SU tri carb and manifold set up complete, minus only the throttle return springs, for this car. If interested contact me at neekamv8@shaw.ca
Gone. $18K. Great car for a person with rebuilding talent. I wish it had been me.
Greetings All,
Try thermally cycling the block after filling the bores with oil.
A water heater and a zone pump will likely do it. A timer 6 hours on, six hours off for a week or two should be fine.
Used this method several times.
Only once did I drill a piston around the wrist pin and once I made a puller/pusher plate. Basically one plate bolts to the head studs with stanchions with a 1″ threaded rod to push down. That allows rough cleaning of the bore. Then flip over block and push it out.