The Series 355 Cadillacs debuted in 1931 as the U.S. economy was trying to recover from The Great Depression. Various body styles were offered including the 4-door Town Car like this example from 1933. The series designation was adopted from the 355 cubic inch V8 engines that powered the prestigious automobiles. Production continued through 1935 and each model year had a different 355 moniker (355A, 355B, etc.).
Cadillac made a few styling changes to the 355C in 1933 as General Motors was trying to create more of a family atmosphere in the design of its various products (a cost-saving move?). Because the economy was still strained in 1933, just 2,100 copies of the 355C were built across all body styles. This noble edition was last on the road in 1983 before it went into long-term storage. We don’t know if any mechanical issues brought that about as the auto has 80,000 miles, which is a lot for passenger cars in those days.
We don’t know the history of this once-fine touring car. Originality pops out everywhere, including the black paint and interior, though the former is said to be flaking in a few places. Rust is not a problem, so this luxury car should be a solid restoration candidate. The engine turns freely, and new head gaskets have been installed, so perhaps getting this machine running again may point to the fuel delivery system.
Besides a lack of history, there is also no title, so buyers will have to be content with a clean Bill of Sale. Located in a garage in Atlanta, Georgia, this fine classic is available here on eBay. But no bids have been placed, including the opener of $12,000. If you’re looking for a 1930s Caddy to bring back to life, this might be one of the nicest you’ll likely find. Remember, it’s 91 years old!
Aw, come on you guys, doesn’t anyone else hear “The Untouchables” theme song? I’m very disappointed in all of you. Not really, merely a stark indicator of the lack of interest. Economy strained in 1933? That’s putting it mildly, as, I read, and my parents and grandparents kvetched about it,, 1933 was the worst time during the depression, the commercial banking system went ka-bluey, and was not a happy time. The 2100 buyers were certainly people that the depression had no effect on. I read, this car cost about $2995 new, and one of the cheaper Caddys, some limos went for $10grand. Doesn’t sound like much, except pay was about $1045/yr, if you had a job, that is, a house cost about $6grand, and a new Chevy was $495.
No bids, no comments,,,,you tell me.
I can just imagine Al Capone riding in this Caddy.
If I had a garage and not have to rent space, that car would be on it’s way to Florida right now. It’s beautiful.
NO TITLE, Bill of Sale only. BIG Headache plus the cost of getting it all back up and road worthy.
Broadway Title in Alabama can give you an Alabama title with proper documenting which they will get to you. Then you can transfer the title to your state for a new title in your name. It isn’t all that expensive either. Minor detail. Getting her running won’t be a big deal either. Keeping her running will be expensive.I’d sure like to get my hands on this one. Reminds me of my first car, 1935 Packard Coupe.
Isn’t this a Town Sedan? I thought a Town Car had an open front compartment.
I agree that those who recollect this car are gaining their reward I would have few qualms about driving this around. Having sold cars for the past thirty some years I can attest that you have a different buyer during great market struggles.
Agree with Jim. This is a good driver’s car for around $12K. For a collector, spend more and look for a V12, or for a lot more, V16 is the collector’s choice.
This car was seven years old when I made my grand entrance. Growing up in the region of Boston there were lots of old cars still running around, lots of people who wished they could afford any car, lots of out houses still in operation and the telephone still hung on the wall, high enough so the kids couldn’t play with the crank handle on the side. By the time I was 5 i’d heard of the hydraulic windows operated with a button on some high end cars and adjustable seats but AC was totally unheard of at least in my neck of the woods.This car reminds me of that era when life was a bowl of cherries and and I was just a kid with a head full of dreams.My Packard was a dream come true so I guess I’ll always have a spot in my Heart fr these good ol cars.
Someone into customizing could have a field day with this thing! A Munsters makeover or breathe some art deco on it. Or perhaps an expression of power like a Rolls Royce, with that language of “Get out of my way serfs, I have markets to dominate and I will run you over and leave you flat as a penny then sell your body for ground beef and use your soul to light my cigar”.
All it takes is time and money…and a ruthless pursuit of “Screw you”!
Just looking at the interior tells you that Cadillac was trying to save money, but the car is complete and looks decent. Still, it’s huge, so restoration will be neither cheap nor quick. They installed only head gaskets because they didn’t want to pull that boat anchor of an engine and do it right. If two-tone paint was an original options, that might liven it up. But what would you do with it? Making it into a hot rod could be sacrilege, but it would look distinctive if lowered with a chopped top. A wedding/prom car would need AC. I’d restore as is and just enjoy driving and showing it.
Lot of car there. Reminds me of the character Mr Magoo. Georgia is one of a few States that replaces titles with bill of sales. Still haven’t wrapped my head around that one yet. With my experience and frustration dealing with outdated mechanics I would replace the engine transmission brakes etc with a modern day reliable drive line and leave the rest original. Restored of course.
You need to see what you have here first. The engine may be ok and the rest of the car looks great. I think I’ve seen this one on here before and nobody wanted to spend that much money on it.I really don’t think a decent cosmetic and mechanical restoration would cost that much. I’m think of restoring it yourslfe and not professionally. Could be a neat daily driver. And ya, it needs AC for sure but that can be added.
As much as we would like to hold on to the past sometimes it’s time to let it go. Trust me when I say to you one simple thing to go out or fail (starter generator water pump fuel pump carburetor fan belt etc) would render it inoperable. I have a 1940 Packard Senior Super 8 that’s been sitting in the garage going on 3 years this month. First problem is locating parts and be ready to dig deep IF you find anything Second is finding someone that is (a) knowledgeable and (b) able and capable of fixing it. If someone asks you what is it? take that as your first clue.
Hi Frog. So what’s wrong with the Packard? You can still buy Packard service manuals that will tell you most everything about your car. Can I put my email on here and communicate with you about your car? I’m a big Packard fan and have owned one. Just ask me.
Hi Norman,
The car runs beautifully when it runs/ran. I’ve spent close to $600 getting the carburetor rebuilt from two sources. The first person didn’t replace the throttle bushings. Then starting it was hit or miss and the focus was on the points. So a Pertronix set up was
put on and called for a 12 volt conversion. Then the solenoid went out. Found an old guy in Nebraska (friends father) who rebuilt that to handle the conversion. The conversion needs completing. And I’m not able to finish it. And to be honest I’m a little gun shy even driving it after that. Its a beautiful black automobiles with around 78k on it. But I stated I care less about original than I due about dependable and reliable. Nothing’s more aggravating and frustrating than having to get a tow home and wait indefinitely for parts and repairs. I’m not a fan of customizing but am of modifications. Thanks for your interest i welcome your input.
According to the ad this auction ended August 20th with a bid below reserve of $15,100 in three bids. Car is not sold.
Frog. I hear ya when it comes to being gunshy with this sort of thing. My opinion, for what it’s worth, is that once you change something you usually have to do other changes to make the first one work. Next thing you know nothing is right. Working on my old cars over the years I’ve made two decision; #1 Don’t change anything. Keep to original parts.
#2 Rebuild original equipment or replace with the same thing only new if ya can.
Obviously there is a glitch in the ignition some where. I assume that you changed the battery and the voltage regulator so the glitch is probably between the battery and the ignition switch. Since you had the cellinoid fixed it’s either not working right or the short is further back along the ignition circuit. That’s a tough one Frog and would drive me nuts too.
Norman & Frog , I put Pertronix on my ’38 LaSalle and stuck with the 6 V , positive ground system . I bought their recommended low-impedence coil and also fitted a new distributor cap , rotor and the latest 7mm spark plug leads which look original. All ground connections MUST be clean and tight . I’ve read that running a separate ground strap from the starter brush plate thru-bolt to the frame can improve starter performance. I carry the points , condenser and breaker plate just in case but I can’t fault the system. All parts were readily available from Melbourne , N.J. & CA.
Peter thank you for the info. I purchased a complete conversion kit from Vintage Auto Garage in San Ramon California. It was around $1200 for the entire kit and are custom made for many older make and model American cars. The wiring on these old cars are covered with a braided cloth that is dirty and discolored making it harder to see inside of the dash in addition to it being dark under there to boot. I’m hoping to get or find an able body guy that knows what he’s doing to get in there to finish the job.
Frog , if it’s just a Pertronix conversion , you shouldn’t have to go under the dash . Are you converting to 12 V ?
Yes all of the bulbs have to changed and the fan blower for the heater wiper motor guages etc all have to have resisters
That is not correct at all. Your way is a total waste of power but changing the bulbs is ok. Install a dc to dc converter to drop the voltage down to 6 volt efficiently.
Frog. If you where lacking electronic knowledge and decided to use a resistor, just for the blower and one speed, then R=E/I so figuring a 6 v drop and an average current of 20 amps, that would be a .3 ohm resistor but worse, the power rating would be P=I X E so the rating would be 120WATTS!!! That’s would dissipate mire heat than a 100 watt, 120 volt light bulb!
Cadillac Kid, maybe I used the wrong term. Vintage Auto Garage supplied the necessary parts to perform the conversion. They’ve been been in business for years and supply kits for just about any American vehicle. Check them out. I am familiar with basic wiring both ac and dc and not at all with modern day electronics. My hard drive (brain) is full. There is less than a dozen wires that need connected inside of the dash. I can barely see what is what either due to color of the wire hands in the way or blinded by the light. I’ve had a handful of local guys who claimed to be gurus or experts at building cars and granted the old technology is basically the same but this car predates their age and knowledge besides the fact that they have never seen one before. As I posted earlier if they pose the question what is it? Beware! I don’t allow anyones or everyones hands under my hood. And when converting from 6 volt positive to 12 volt negative someone who is dyslexic surely has no business messing with my car and I have no way of knowing if they are or not.
No problem and there is always plenty of free advice which is often worth what you paid for it. My brain and yours is a marvelous computer but it only holds a certain amount of
mega bytes. When it gets full, it starts deleting bytes to allow for more.Unfortunately, it chooses the bytes for us.