Last driven 17 years ago (with expired plates, according to the seller), this 1975 Triumph TR6 could be just the project you are looking for. It is currently in the seller’s garage in Wheaton, Maryland and can be yours if the price is right–whoops, wrong show! Actually, the seller is looking for offers, so we really don’t know what the price is right now. You can view the ad here on craigslist although the pictures leave a lot to be desired. Thanks to Barn Finds reader Yasha S for this great find!
As the seller tells us, there’s some rust. This is actually a typical spot for rust on TR4-TR6 cars. Replacement panels are available, but to be honest I think I’d cut this part out and repair it. That rear fender unbolts, so access isn’t that bad. There is some other body rust in typical TR6 locations, such as the trunk lid. Unfortunately, there are no under car pictures to see if the worst rust spots for a TR6, the trailing arm locations, are solid or not. I hope not; they can be somewhat difficult to repair properly and expensive to have a specialist remedy.
There’s nothing quite like the wooden dash on late TR4s through TR6s. The nice thing about this is that it’s fully within the do-it-yourself area to replace the padded components and even refinish the dash, although the new ones that are available from several suppliers are gorgeous! One thing to be careful of here is not to go with a hardwood dash; they have a tendency to warp in moisture; that’s why the factory used veneered plywood in the first place. This one looks complete and certainly could be refinished. There’s 42,719 miles showing; my guess is that the speedometer cable broke somewhere along the line (common) because it looks like more than 42k but less than 142k to me.
I would definitely want to see more of the bare floor, but the little bit of brown paint showing next to the mat is promising. Seat upholstery is easy to find and you can even upgrade to leather if you want to. Unfortunately, this picture doesn’t quite have the left stalks in view so we could tell if the optional overdrive is on this car or not. If the seller will get you a commission number (Triumph-speak for VIN), look for an “O” as the last digit.
Unusually, the air pump and emissions gear are still in place. That’s another reason I’m thinking this has around 100k miles or less; most of the time that would have been thrown away a long time ago. Overall, this looks like a good candidate to repair and drive, and then improve along the way. Howard A, are you out there? I can’t guarantee it has overdrive, but the price may be really sweet–it doesn’t hurt to ask! What would you readers offer on this Triumph?
The Terribly Rusty 6 project I am looking for? Tetanus shot first!
Back in the late 1980’s made my own Oak dash put a two part epoxy self leveling on it which required to use a torch to get rid of the bubbles – and also painted it in British Racing Green in lacquer. Both required lots of work and lots of sanding – and both had mirror like finish. Came out really nice…Do you know I got more compliments for the dash than the rest of the car? I was surprised.
By the way – the Oak dash never warped, which I’m glad cause that was alot of work – especially the glove box.
I sunk close to $40,000 in a TR-6 complete resto. Never again. There are far better cars that are also better investments. The writer is correct, check for frame rust at trailing arms. Being brown, with the rust, I wouldn’t touch this one. Whoever does is going to be upside down really quick.
No matter the color as these British cars can be painted to your choice of paint.. You can spend far less and have a real show piece driver.
No doubt. However, I wanted mine as close to perfect as possible. That being said, these cars leave a lot to be desired even when restored to the nut, bolt, and washer level as mine was. Personally, having owned I believe 6 MGB’s, 3 TR-6’s, 2 Norton’s, 1 Triumph Trident, a good running chrome or 74.5 MGB is the far superior car, if you insist on staying British. IMHO, at least.
Hi Jamie, BF’s is my #1 site, of course I’m out here. (N. Wis. actually) You know, you can only dangle a carrot in front of a mule so many times, before he figures out a way to get that carrot. I’m working on it. In the meantime, I agree with Gene, this one is a bit rough. Somebody drove this car, a lot. In my younger days, I’d tackle something like this, if the price was right, but nowadays, I’d prefer to open the door, turn the key, and ( hopefully) go for a ride, and deal with the bugaboo’s as they happen. While price is a relative thing, some go cheap, most don’t. I’d be very surprised if this went for less than $5g’s, and stick $10g’s into it, to get a $10g car. Clearly, there’s no shortage of TR6’s, so I’ll know the right one, just not this particular one.( and brown is one of my least favorite colors on a car) One of these days,,,
I’d sink perhaps 1000 in to buying this as I don’t believe in paying the same amount into buy something that I would be restoring it
The only car that looks good brown. Maybe a GT6 too.
InThat’s 140k on the clock. I had one in white, a 73 in high but school back in 81. 81k miles and mine looked new but rust was everywhere, ,. Typical Maryland car, I sold it right after the headlight fell out from rust when my girlfriend slammed the door. If this is a Maryland car run don’t walk away, as we have among the worst heaviest spreading of salt and winter spray on winter roads that lasts till June before it washes away along with a lot of dampness and moisture year round. You can hear cars rust in Maryland it’s so bad.Want a rust free car, don’t buy one from Maryland, or basically Florida to Maine east of the Mississippi, north of Kentucky Oklahoma or new Mexico above California. Even the south west and southern TR’s are rust prone, sun damaged or both. Then there is Lucas, the Prince Of Darkness plaguing every one out there…hit a bump at midnight and every light goes out..
Have one now rusty as all get out.i changed my mind.on restoring her .so decided to ACCA the car equipped with a v8 small block.rid the trailing arm snack half with a Ford 8.8or 9in.rear.its a body off.when finished I,ll post it here .Pete,s customs
One of the few cars that were actually cool in the late ’70’s. The perforations on the rear deck are scary, very scary.