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A Tale Of Two FJs: ’76 VS ’75 Toyota Land Cruisers

There are two yellow Land Cruiser FJ40s up for grabs right now. Both of them are yellow and appear to be in excellent, survivor-grade condition with bidding slightly higher for the one on eBay. The question is, which one do you choose? The ’75 strikes me as just slightly more honest than the ’76, but even I’m not sure where I’m getting that sentiment from. Find the 1976 model here on eBay with bids over $12K and the 1975 example here on Proxibid with bidding under $10K at the moment. 

Now, the 1976 example seems to be a slightly better runner and it has under 80,000 original miles. The numbers-matching 2F engine fires right up, while the ’75 will only do so with fuel being shot directly into the carb. The older model also shows a registration from the state of Vermont indicating the last time it was inspected for road use occurred in 1977. There’s some more rust on the rear of the later model, too, which could speak to its history of more recent use.

The later model also appears to wear newer tires (not a bad thing) but the earlier example just appears slightly more “correct” with the less knobby tires. They’re also likely quite old and in need of replacement. Glass on both models look good, as do the rear jump seats. The seller of the eBay example confirms there is no bondo in the vehicle, which is definitely a factor to consider; very little information about the integrity of the body is offered on the Proxibid FJ.

Your decision doesn’t get any easier inside the cabin, as both FJs look surprisingly nice. I’ll give the edge to the older model, as that’s been sitting longer and the interior looks quite good (it’s the one on the right, here). The paint on both Land Cruisers shows appropriate signs of age, and while they both run, you might feel less hesitant to deal with the eBay seller given the lack of info offered for the ’75. Which one would you choose?

Comments

  1. Avatar photo Doyler

    Yes. I DEFINITELY overpaid for mine.

    Like 0
  2. Avatar photo Wayne

    I choose neither as I already have one. (1971)
    Mine has already been upgraded with the later 4 speed and front disc brakes.
    I have owned it for 35 years and will never sell it. It is part of the family and my kids will fight over it when I am gone. I had my daughter ” driving” it while doing some vehicular landscaping. ( she was 9 at the time)We have logged many miles together out in the western Nevada eastern Califoria mountains and she has never let me down. These things are built like a brick _ _ _ _ house. Work on CJ and then work on one of these. They don’t call them Landcrushers for nothing. You can never go wrong with one of these. The values have slowed down a little the last couple of years but keep climbing.

    Like 4
    • Avatar photo JTNC

      Wayne, I also have a 1971 FJ40 which I bought about four years ago. It’s generally in nice but not beautiful condition, I would rate it 3+ to 2-. No rust, minimal modifications. I haven’t done that much with it so far except maintain it. I hope this fall to start enhancing it. I think I am okay with retaining “3 on the tree” but would consider converting to 4-speed if not too expensive. I might want to add power disc brakes and power steering. There is a shop near me that has done this before. Do you know how much you paid for your trans and brake conversions? (Maybe you did some work yourself.) I also would like to go back to Toyota wheels and hubcaps. Right now it has typical “slot mags.”

      Like 0
  3. Avatar photo Claus

    I’ll take the one with the PTO winch.

    Like 0
  4. Avatar photo Crusha

    The estate auction 40 sold to a live bidder for $16,750 plus ten percent premium. Truck was very solid and original. It had been repainted the correct color over thirty years ago and had been in storage for about the same time. Mileage was original. It need a lot of attention, and had a lot of exterior surface rust, but was an original “survivor”.

    Like 0
  5. Avatar photo BTG88

    Mine is a ’75, which is the golden year here in CA – smog exempt. So, if I needed one…

    Like 0
  6. Avatar photo Wayne

    Hi JTNC
    If you have a very late model 1971, the change to power steering is fairly simple with a power steering box from an FJ60. ( I believe that the production date break is April 1971. It is easy to tell. If you have a flex ( rag) joint in the steering shaft before it goes in to the steering gear. Then you have a later model 1971. Otherwise it is easier to change to a Saginaw box to be located at the front of the frame and eliminate the steering pivot that now lives there. ( you end up adding a u-joint and extending the steering shaft)
    The easiest way to upgrade ( and the cheapest) to disc brakes is to change out the front axle with one from a later model FJ40 or FJ55. I have seen it done with axles from FJ60s also. But I believe there is some modification required. Also, Toyota changed the final drive ratio on FJ40s and 60s from 4.10 to 3.73 in later years. ( I think 1978). So grabbing only a front diff may cause a problem if not the same ratio. Don’t forget to grab the master cylinder, booster, lines and diverted block.
    When changing to a 4 speed it is easiest to also change the transfer case at the same time. And snag all the transfer case shifter links, brackets and levers as the four speed transmission is also taller. Which is why you will also need to change the transmission tunnel ( center floor covering) to clear the new transmission.
    I was very fortunate to obtain a newer FJ55 that had been well cared for by the original owner. ( 2 grocery bags full of all the receipts for repairs and maintenance) It was traded in to the dealership where I worked be the son of the original owner. ( dad died) I was able to buy it cheap as it looked like hell. Just to get the HD winch mounted to the front. When driving it home I was amazed how well or ran and drove. (none of the drivetrain had more than 30,000 miles on it) So now all the mechanicals live under my FJ40. (Plus a few upgrades like front shackle change to rear shackle and all urethane bushings and Bilstein shacks make all the difference in ride and handling. And by changing to an exhaust header and changing out the vacuum retard to a vacuum advance now gives me 20MPG on the highway.)

    Like 0
    • Avatar photo JTNC

      Thanks for the very helpful advice, Wayne, I will save it. I don’t know my production dare but will look.

      Like 0
  7. Avatar photo half cab

    8-80 and after according to that dood over at ICON. Jonathan Ward

    Like 1

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