This 1957 Buick Roadmaster convertible is exceptionally collectible but in derelict condition and thus worth attention on that basis alone. But the seller’s advertisement on eBay is also meticulously written – making it doubly interesting. The seller wants $24,900 for his project car, and it’s located in Mineral Bluff, Georgia. Let’s delve into the pros and cons of this top-shelf Roadmaster. In the “advantages” column, this is one of the most stylish examples of 1950s automotive architecture ever created. With its Dagmar bumpers, “sweepspear” trim from the front fender down to the rear, four ventiports on each side, reverse slant rear fins with fluted trim enclosing the rear tail lights, big wrap-around windshield …. this car had every styling cue anyone could want in the 1950s. But while the 1957 model year benefited from a larger displacement nail-head V8, these cars do drive awkwardly if you’re used to more nimble machinery. This was the era of the interstate highway, and it’s a big country, so cars were built to travel long distances in a straight line, not carve the esses in the back woods.
This car’s engine should be the 364 cu. in. V8 paired with a Dynaflow two-speed automatic transmission. The engine was an evolution of Buick’s 322, uprated by enlarging the valves, increasing the compression ratio, and fitting a four-barrel carburetor. All this boosted output to 300 hp, good for zero to sixty in under 11 seconds. That’s not bad, considering that the Roadmaster sits on a 127.5″ wheelbase and weighs a hefty 4600 lbs. The seller indicates that he hasn’t tried to turn the motor, and he hasn’t checked to see if its numbers match the car’s production time frame.
The convertible Roadmaster interior was a step up from even the Roadmaster coupe. Leather upholstery front and back was standard, and this car is optioned with six-way power seats, a power top, power windows, air conditioning, a tissue dispenser, power steering, and power brakes. For 1957, that was a lot of power! The interior will need renovation from top to bottom, but the good news is that the car is very complete.
The underside is dry with modest surface rust. The trunk is in a similar condition. The seller notes that he has two or three other cars to restore, and he felt that letting the Buick sit another few years was unwise. His asking price is apparently less than what he paid for the car a few years ago. Of course, there’s plenty of work here, but parts and help are available for this big American car. Once completed, a Roadmaster convertible can sell for $100k, like this example sold by Gooding. Still, there are no takers yet; what do you think is a fair price for this swanky Buick?
Any way you look at it this car is going to be a money pit. The owner paid too much for it and now want’s a new buyer to pay him back. My Dad had a ’55 Buick Roadmaster and the comment about it’s handling is accurate. My Dad said it handled worse than his boat.
Well it figures! This was a GREAT AMERICAN LAND YACHT! 👏
The 57 Buicks were very Special (no pun intended) as the best of that styling design. For me the 58 Buick chrome laden was the best. A 58 Limited convert is extremely rare. As for this 57, it’s a Buick 🎵 I would 🎶 not really rather have 🎵. Still, I hope someone does give it a restoration to bring it back as a ROAD MASTER! 😉
My advice to the seller is want in one hand, and defaecate in the other hand, and see which one fills up first.
Very rare to find air conditioning in a convertible in 1957. In fact, rare to find factory air conditioning in any car in 1957. Still, I think the car is overpriced by at least $10,000. Seller can’t even verify if the engine turns, so assume it doesn’t.
Quickly underwater with this restoration no matter the purchase price. $100-150K in restoration alone (and that could be an underestimate…know what restoration shop per hour labor costs are running?) and as Michelle points out, Gooding for $100K. Nice writeup, by the way…as always.
Had one,although not a convertible the same car. A gas hog for sure but it would eat the road with ease. This was in 1965
The car itself has alot going for it, but the hinderance is the price. He’s about $8-10K too high for what it would take to restore. However, these are EASILY $120K-$160K when done. I notice this one has the unusual solid-color leather seats. In the case usually paired with black bisquits in the center. But all-white with black buttons would be beautiful. This one calls for deep pockets, but well worth the price of restoration.
Had a ’56 Convert. in ’67…. Black top white with black under chrome strip side panels back in PA. I was in the Army then, never worried about the cost of filling it up @ .30c a GA. One night on the PA turnpike I decided to see if it could do 120 mph like the speedodometer showed ? It did ! Like a plane it flew…. After a mile or so I dropped back to 65, just in case there might be a cop around, and besides I didn’t want to blow the engine maybe… I’ll never forget that car… I proposed to my wife in it before going to Germany for my final year in the Army. I was in the Army’s air defense Nike Hercules system .
sounds like you and I were thinking the same.my first car was also a 56 buick special 4 door h.t and also in 67.great car as it turned out and only paid $175.00 for it back then with a 102000 miles on it and you still couldn’t hear the engine run.very quite
What ever your cost estimates for restoration mechanical body and interior plus purchase price figure on adding an additional $5000-$10000 to those costs for things unknown only to get more expensive with time.
Looking at the ebay posting Michelle the starting bid is $24,900. This car has alot of unforgiving rust on it. IMO it’s for someone with more time and money than brains.
This has all the “right stuff” but all of it needs work. This would be a VERY expensive resto, but at least you’d be starting with a car loaded with options. Looks like it even has the signal seeker radio with the floor switch.
I’m surprised at all the negative comments about this car. I think it’s in great condition for an unrestored, 67 year-old Buick. It actually has very little rust. Just compare it to any of the Dodge Chargers on this very website.
I also consider the asking price reasonable. I doubt you would be able to hire out the restoration for less than $100,000. However, that’s not a big step to the folks who like these chrome-plated whales.
My biggest fear would be finding new parts. There never has been much aftermarket support for Buick products.
These are not negative comments Jerry. Many of us have been there and done that. It’s just being realistic. Also even if someone were to undertake the project and restore it I would not be an individual to want to buy it. I don’t know what your experience is on buying a restored vehicle but once rust has appeared, it has permeated completely through. And you can cut and patch and weld and grind and sand, it’s just a matter of time before the elements of nature air and moisture will win and no amount of money will stop it. I call it the Medusa effect.
That car has minimal rust for an unrestored 67 year old car — especially for a convertible. If this were a 65-67 Chevelle SS (which are my passion) convertible in that condition with all those options, I wouldn’t hesitate for one moment to buy it!
Properly done rust repair completely removes all the rusted parts of sheet metal, and any rusted structure behind it, and replaces all that with clean steel. So if you have rust coming back on a restored car (especially one that is rarely if ever driven in the rain), then with all due respect the work simply was not done correctly in the first place.
As proof of that, I still have my high school car (67 Chevelle SS). It had a very good body but did have some rust around the back glass, a little in the trunk floor, and the lower part of one quarter, that all had to be fixed. The car still looks just as good now as it did when it was finished, and that was 1985. And that is despite me daily-driving it (like a crazy teenager) for almost 3 years back then. The only sign of the age of the restoration is the lacquer paint is a little tired in a few places, but the body work remains as good as the day it was done, because it was done right.
66 and 67 were my favorite chevelles/Malibu so I commend you on that. Now you brought up some interesting points. I don’t know what state you live in, I did say moisture or dampness which you said you didn’t drive it in the rain and “done right.” How would you know if a car was done right? If you sand or grind metal bare the surface has began rusting almost immediately especially if it’s even just a little humidity outside. Now you can treat the surface and slather on body putty prime and paint but as I mentioned contaminated metal is very unforgiving. Any established body shop knows this as well as a metallurgist. Sounds like you really pamper your garage queen for obvious reasons. The more exposure to the elements the sooner it will present itself. Cars are classified as planned obsolescence regardless of whether they are metal plastic or fiberglass. They weren’t designed to last for eternity.
Read my post again. I did not say I didn’t drive MY CAR in the rain. I said anyone restoring a car like that Buick in today’s classic car market is not likely to drive it in the rain very often, if ever.
I daily drove my high school car, sun or rain (not snow), year-round for nearly 3 years. Then summers (without worry about rain) for two decades after that. I had it sideways burning the back tires off every time I thought I could get away with it! (Only got taken to jail while driving that car once!) Far, far from a trailer queen. I do have a couple of those though, and they certainly do get treated very well — which is exactly how this Buick obviously would be treated if someone bought it and restored it.
And yes, it was stripped to bare metal when it was painted, but it was never outside while that work was being done, and it was properly prepped, and was NOT “slathered with body putty”. Butt-welded repairs and good metal finishing make “mud slathering” unnecessary. I’m not a painter myself, but I certainly know (or back then, my Dad knew) how to hire someone who is!
And you asked how do I know it was done right? Well, for the reasons I already stated – it is an almost 40 year old restoration and has ZERO bodywork issues. There’s not a pit or pimple anywhere now. Proof is in the pudding!
The done right comment was directed towards any restored car not specifically your example. But in my observation you don’t know what kind of restoration was done to a vehicle that has already been done. Fair enough? There is moisture in the air indoors in the best climate controlled building. We can continue this debate back and forth but I don’t think it would sway your opinion or example either way. So if you would consult with any other experts in the field and let them weigh their thoughts or opinion about a 40 year old restoration that hasn’t begin to show rust to the trained eye. Besides I don’t like pudding.
This car is close to a unicorn. I restored a 57 Roadmaster Convertible so I have looked over every 57 Buick I can find. None of the convertibles of any model had air!
Mine had lost it’s brakes and hit the back of a truck when I bought it. The good news, no frame damage, the bad news it still needed a front clip. Finding the Roadmaster only headlight trim rings with just the front edge chromed was tough. I followed Bill Michell’s example and installed fog lights in the front bumper guards. My car was shown at the 1957 NY Auto show. At the time local dealers could buy the exhibit cars and Tuckahoe Buick bought and sold mine. It was a great ride with two-toned blue leather interior. Last I knew it was on Long Island. Would love to know what happened to it. :)
Beautiful car in the hands of the right person.Disregard the negatives.
Easily and $150K? Do not go together. $10000 tops from someone that can have a real professional restore it. Then with a few HUNDRED? Miles on it might auction for $150-$200K. Take a big swing on a potential dazzler! But don’t count the money til the deal is done!