When you begin counting down the days of summer and see the opportunity to start a new project slipping away, you then have to lower the potential investment price of your future top-down acquisition. Allow me to present to you an $800 Jeep Wrangler that’s been sitting for 10 years in Vermont and looks surprisingly solid. The YJ-series of the Wrangler is quickly becoming one of the most desirable generations as 90s-vintage vehicles continue to escalate in popularity, and this one looks like it could be a fun runner for the remaining days of summer. Find it here on eBay somewhere near Bennington, Vermont.
Yes, Vermont is known for some of the saltiest, messiest roads in the country that last long past the normal expiration date of winter conditions almost everywhere else. You can drive through certain parts well into May and still see snow on the road. However, it’s also a place where many folks keep a seasonal second home that also comes with a vehicle that gets parked for the months when winter is at its worse. The Wrangler looks amazingly solid down the sides, and while it is filthy, I don’t see any major holes except for what appears to be an isolated rust spot below the driver’s seat.
The tires still show white lettering that hasn’t bled off with years’ worth of rain and snow hitting it, not to mention sun just beating down on every exterior surface. I’m curious how it was stored outside, because the chrome grill still looks good and even the black plastic trim along the fenders shows up decently enough. Both of those areas would be heavily weathered by this point if the Jeep wasn’t kept under some sort of shelter. Now, I suspect your biggest job will be gutting the interior, which is easy-peasy in a rig like this. The seller clearly stored it with no top.
Here’s the hard top, buried under lots of vegetation and pine needles, but thankfully, still intact. Really, what more do you need? This is a classic “ran when parked” special, but with the burly 4.2L inline-six (only around for a short while in the Wrangler before migrating to the standard 4.0L) under the hood, it shouldn’t take much coaxing to get it to fire again. Producing a respectable 112 b.h.p. and 210 lb.-ft. of torque – thankfully, in this Wrangler, routed through a 5-speed manual – you’ll have plenty of fun in the sun when you get this Jeep to run. Would you make the trek to Vermont to save it?
Someone will resurrect it…
The all new Dodge for 1987.
You mean AMC…
When a sellers description focuses on parts the ad states “being sold as one piece” believe them. In my experience, when a seller says that they consider it a parts car, but include the word project that’s for the benefit of wishful thinkers.
When I used to part out cars there would always be someone that came and looked at a car that was 90% stripped, missing every expense/vital component and would ask if it could be restored, I’d tell them yes, but wouldn’t recommend trying. A few people, usually with their kid in tow, thought the hulk in front of them would make a good father son project. I’d eventually tell them they’d be better off finding something else and explain the economics and time involved, where they should look and to get the most complete car in the best condition they could afford as a starting point. These people were often beginners, looking for their first project, those people need to really think about what they are looking to buy, know the costs involved and the amount of time involved.
Steve R
Bennington,,,hmm, that sounds familiar,,,home of Hemmings, while it’s not polite to plug any other site, if not for an ad in Hemmings about this new website called “BarnFinds”, I never would have posted 19,000 posts here,,( 19,367 to be exact) :)
$800,,,:(, oh, I don’t feel so good, well, actually, this is a LOT worse than mine, and these don’t show the terminal rust, but many break in half when the skid plate is removed, many times the only thing holding it together. Mine is sound, luckily. I really like my Jeep, and would hate to part with it.
I’ve pretty much ruled out any kind of frivolous purchases, although that MGB looks awful tempting, and while my Jeep, being a 4 cylinder, is horribly inept for the hills, if I go back to the UP( der hey), and it’s looking that way( adios Colorado), my Jeep would be right at home. I’d really look this one over, seems like a good deal..
Now,,,I have a question for any Jeep folks that might know. I’ve decided to tow the Jeep behind a UHaul truck, there are conflicting stories how to do that. Some say, on a “flat tow”, with a tow bar, one should put the transfer case in N, and the main in 5th. Some say remove the driveshafts,( ugh), on a car dolly, some say both transfer and trans in N. Or a car hauler trailer. Anyone?
Appears to be rusty in all the wrong places. A bouncy ride on a roll back wrecker of more than a few hundred miles and you might lose a few hundred pounds of ferrous oxide dust of former frame components. Strong pass.
Unless you live in Vermont and need a few parts…
Specific to your long distance tow… The car hauler trailer behind a U-Haul truck and car hauler combo seems to be best. At least you’ll have some assurance of their company’s backing. Just keep a close eye on everything every time you stop for fuel. If you’ve ever been involved in a breakaway, it can be rather exciting. A brief inspection each time can be a life saver. Look especially for cracked welds at every stress point on the truck and hauler. Keep your speed down. Get a good feel of the truck handling and if it starts to feel weird, it is. Be safe.
Howard, you are an old truck driver, so there should be no question.. Put it on a trailer!!!! First check with U-Haul that their tandem axle car trailer will haul the weight you need?? You might have to buy or rent a bigger trailer??? Then buy some extra tie downs. Load the Jeep, forward or backward to get the best balance, with the hubs locked, transfer case in low, tranny in first or reverse, and the parking brake on, AND TIE IT DOWN GOOD!! Then check your tie downs at EVERY stop.. The attached picture, after we got home, is my 5000 pound Diamond T, on my utility trailer with two 3500 lb axles, Behind my F-250 6.0 Power Stroke. Took it from Greenville SC to Amarillo TX to be restored then when I picked it up 3 years later. From Amarollo to Greeley CO to a show and then home. I also pulled that unit to Macungie PA to the ATCA National show. Pulled OK, but I did not set any speed records. AS for this jeep, NO comments.
For as long I can say, you flat tow with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear or park. I’m trying to find an old YJ owners manual to confirm.
UHaul has open trailers for car hauling. After a cross country run with our Porsche Cabriolet being towed behind our Porsche Coupe we bought an open trailer to carry our cars and still do. Just getting into gas stations is much easier. Also hauls lumber etc.
Car hauler eliminates the fooling around with the mechanical. Drive on, drive off done.
I’ve flat towed many, many a Jeep. Unlock steering wheel (an often over looked step), place transmission and transfer case in Neutral and drive away, Done it more times than I can remember from IN to FL (used to “import” them for sale here).
If the transfer case is in neutral, none of the drive line that is upstream will be turning. When I flat tow my 95 Wrangler I just leave everything in neutral, seems to work just fine.
pine needles and moss. they do wonder for a vehicle.
Real Jeeps have round headlights, V8s or I6.
Get over the headlights already… and this is a I-6.
I live in Vermont and had an 87 just like this one. Most of these up here have rusted frames. The unknowledgeable people who have them want big money because they know it is a Jeep. Most are parts vehicles and not worth the time. The squared headlights were a turn-off to Jeep people and that is why they returned to the round headlights in the 90’s along with their logo. Bennington is the other end of the state for me. It’s at least two + hours away. Not worth my time even though a straight six, a 5 speed and an $800 price tag is desirable for me……..