It is hard for first-timers seeking a DIY restoration project to go past traditional British sports cars. Most parts remain available and affordable, while the elegantly simple engineering that is a hallmark of these classics means that an owner can tackle many tasks in a home workshop. If that isn’t enough to tempt you with this 1951 MG TD, the fact it is the rarer and more potent Competition Model makes it difficult to resist. If you are still wavering, the seller’s decision to list it with No Reserve may prove the tipping point. The MG is listed here on eBay in Lutz, Florida. Bidding has raced to $2,477, and if it remains within that region, it could prove an affordable restoration candidate.
The history of this MG is unclear, but the supplied photos confirm it requires total restoration. Its Clipper Blue paint, a shade offered by the company between 1949 and 1951, has seen better days. It has peeled in spots, exposing steel that shows surface corrosion. Fortunately, there is no penetrating rust in the panels, although the overall deterioration and a few dings and dents mean that stripping the panel to bare metal would be a good starting point. There is patchable rust in the battery tray, but I can’t spot any further problems. The frame carries a coating of surface corrosion but appears to be structurally sound. The buyer will undoubtedly elect to tackle this as a frame-off project, but the handbuilt nature of these classics means that dismantling this TD to the last nut and bolt should not pose too many challenges. Most of the exterior trim requires a trip to the platers, and the wires wheels will need attention from a specialist to ensure they are safe. The shopping list includes a new windshield and convertible top in Beige to match the interior trim.
The MG’s interior wears its original and correct Beige leather upholstery, and although it is complete, it is screaming for total restoration. Most of the dash components look restorable, but the upholstered surfaces and “banjo” wheel have gone well beyond the point of no return. This aspect of the build could prove the most expensive because while trim kits are available in the correct color and materials, they leave no change from $2,000. A reproduction wheel adds a further $350 to the total, and by the time you add any smaller components like gauge rings, the tally could reach around $3,000. That’s a fair chunk of cash, but the interior will be as-new once the new owner completes their work.
When we tip back the hood, we discover what makes this TD stand out from the crowd. All cars rolled off the line featuring the company’s 1,250cc XPAG four-cylinder engine, with the regular production version sending its 54hp to the rear wheels via a four-speed manual transmission. The company introduced the Competition Model in 1950, and by raising engine compression to 8.5:1, that power “soared” to 62hp. That is what we find occupying the engine bay of this numbers-matching classic. However, that brings us to an important point, which may make this TD slightly unusual. The previous interior shot reveals this as a right-hand-drive vehicle, which would be consistent with a car produced for the domestic market. That seemed reasonable until realizing that MG didn’t offer the “Competition” in the British market due to poor fuel quality. That suggests someone might have imported it from another RHD country. The possibilities are limited, but it may have first seen service in a country like Australia. It would be fascinating to delve into this MG’s history to reveal its story. The seller indicates the car doesn’t run, having spent years in storage. The engine appears stuck, but a dose of Mystery Oil might rectify that issue to make a rebuild possible. Once again, a competent person with a workshop manual could undertake that task in a home workshop.
British sports cars like the 1951 MG TD will never threaten the outright performance offered by muscle cars, but that isn’t their point. Companies designed them as affordable sporting alternatives for those seeking something beyond the typical family sedan. These classics may not scorch the bitumen, but they offer a rewarding and engaging driving experience when the going becomes twisting. I had previously doubted the wisdom of tackling a restoration of a vehicle of this type, but my opinion changed when a friend purchased one as a project. He had no formal qualifications in panel work, painting, or mechanics. However, he grabbed a copy of a workshop manual and, after dismantling the car to the last nut and bolt, produced a finished product of which anyone would be proud. The only sticking point with these classics is that even a perfect example is not a mega-bucks vehicle. It is possible to find nice examples for $20,000, while even a pristine car will struggle to top $30,000. The fact this is a numbers-matching Competition Model helps its cause, and if the new owner can be hands-on with their build, its eventual value should make the build financially viable and satisfying. That sounds like a few decent reasons to justify returning this classic to its former glory. Do you agree?
Wow poor TD has had a tough existence. I don’t see anything that doesn’t need some attention. Putting that mildly, good grief it’s a sound looking project, but a really serious project. Don’t know if a first timer should take it on but hey it could happen.
I’ve not seen wire wheels like that before. The big issue will be the wood frame.
Good point on the wood. Frame is steel but the body panels use wood to provide the internal strength. The wood is available through aftermarket suppliers. Agree that this is going to be a full up rebuild which if we were doing it we’d change it over to left hand drive. Probably would be easier to sell here in the states.
I am in USA but only buy and drive RHD cars.
Left drive would be easier to sell but lots of RHD stuff is here. I have 2 Morgan 3 wheelers with RHD and I enjoy that except at drive up windows!!
They are aftermarket bolt-on wire wheels. TD’s were fitted with bolt on standard disc wheels, not knock-off wires.
I am the caretaker for my FIL’s ’53 TD. I chuckled at the ‘elegantly simple engineering” comment. Maybe I’ve busted enough knuckles on it, but I would describe it as downright crude engineering. Especially when I park it next to my MB 190sl. Three years different age, but a world apart in engineering.
To be fair, though, FIL did a fair amount of wrenching on it himself and he was not the most adept mechanic.
Someone looking at this as a restoration needs to look a their tool box. Doing something like this without a full set of whitworth tools would be pure folly.
True “competition” models also had larger carbs requiring a small bump in the right hood side which I think I can make out in the photo. Also, they had dual fuel pumps and Andrex shocks in addition to the stock set up.
Good shot of the carb bump on the e-bay ad. Good eye GlennR.
Well at least the floors aren’t rusted….. you just cut a fresh piece of plywood!
The Guarantee plate answers the RHD question: it shows that this is an EXRU car: EXport Right hand drive United states car, one of a small handful so configured (5?).
This car does seem to have at least most, or remains, of the Mark II or TD/C features Glenn mentions in place – the bonnet bulge, larger 4031 carbs, dual fuel pumps, but I can’t see the Andrex shocks. It still has matching engine, and has been re-painted – see the paint on the voltage regulator. It might have been Clipper Blue to begin with – I don’t see any other color.
Crusty and original – that’s the way I like to find them. For the right price, and needing a total rebuild, this seems a good prospect for a complete restoration.
I’m with you Tom. This would be a great build but at 78 I think I’ve done my last one. I have 3 toys to drive and maintain.
I am pretty sure those wheels are aftermarket, be nice to convert to left hand drive, I bought one when I was in high school in 1968 for 500 bucks!
Bucks
I don’t think I have the skill set it would take to get this thing in show room condition but I’m pretty sure I could get it to driving condition I would have to turn the wood dash restoration over to someone else or cut it out of metal and have it airbrushed to look like wood. So far price seems reasonable might have to jump on UShip and see what it would cost to get it here
The TD dash was actually made of Rexine-covered plywood; none came with a solid or polished wooden dash. The TA, TB and early TC had polished wooden dashes, then they switched to Rexine coverings.
Assuming you were willing to leave the paint as-is, you would have to deal with the stuck engine (a complete engine job is running $6-8k these days, but expect to pay a minimum of $3k if you do the work yourself), the interior ($2k), the instruments ($2k), and tweaking the doors back so they stayed shut. Brakes are less than a thousand, tires $500, carbs $500, misc. $1,000. Do-able, but it all adds up. And if you add paint, bodywork and chrome, you would certainly be under water.
If this car were closer to me in Maine I would probably try for it, if only to rescue another one – I have five Mark II cars right now, in various stages of disrepair…
Incidentally, in the interests of accuracy, the 62HP figure above is incorrect – that’s TF 1500 range. A TD/C had about a 5% increase over stock, up from 54.4 to 57-58hp.
This is a Mark II, series that is in really poor condition. The Andrex shocks are there, the dual fuel pumps are missing, the engine needs a full rebuild as well as the rest of the car. Very little here but could be parts car. By the time all was repaired, you will have exceeded the value of $30-44,000 full frame off restoration. I own a 1952 Mark II that is fully restored. The engine rebuild including auxiliaries (not just block, etc.) will cost $6500-$10,000, clutch, trans. gone over another $2500 min….then all the rest. True they are rare and growing in value…but this one is a labor of love.
This one is tugging at me. Good thing it’s on the right coast, and I’m on the left coast. But, I still have my whitworth tools, having worked at a dealer and owned a TD previously.
A unique version of a T series certainly, if the buyer has the skills to do the work. On most of the urban roads today, with all 4×4’s and SUV’s driven by dolts on their phone better keep your head on a swivel to keep from getting crushed.
I have a problem with your insistence on a full engine rebuild. I’ve done 3 cars in my life with stuck engines and kerosene while cleaning everything else. In 2 months of soaking and a tweak of the crank bolt every week they tested good on compression and ran for thousands of miles. One other failed and needed rebuild. Yes a rebuild is the ultimate, but it’s not necessarily needed.
Pete, in general I agree with you. Within the last few years, I’ve done a 38 Plymouth, where the ‘stuck’ engine freed up rather easily. However, my next ‘stuck’ engine was a Ford 6 cyl, that had been sitting in a field, with plugs out, for decades. I tried for months with the various snake oils in the cylinders, and coaxing the engine to turn. No luck, so I disassembled the engine. Found a mouse carcass in one of the cylinders, and nest material in another. So, in the case of this TD, agreeing with you…. coax it to free up, and see what ya got.
I’d love to own this one , as it has always been one of my favorites. However like the other interested party, I also am 78(almost 79) and though it would be a fun car to own and drive, I physically am unable to do the work needed to restore this little beauty