When I was a teenager back in the mid-’90s, I had big plans to own a Triumph someday, preferably a TR2. As way leads onto way, I ended up behind the wheel of a variety of American ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s cars instead, but I still look back fondly on my days thumbing through my Illustrated Triumph Buyer’s Guide by Richard Newton, and I still remember his recommending a TR6 as one of the best TRs for daily use. Combined with its beefy stance and “How did they do it?” restyling job of the TR4 shell by Karmann, the TR6 really is a beauty. The seller of this one says that it’s “one of your last chances to buy an affordable TR6.” Barn Finds reader Mike F. found it on craigslist in Englewood, Colorado, and it’s priced to sell at $4,900.
One of the nice things about the TR6 compared to an earlier TR is its engine, a torquey 2498cc six. Horsepower ratings are hard to find by 1975; they were not listed in the brochure, but it’s safe to say that power levels had taken a hit due to low compression ratios (7.5:1) and other emissions-cheating engineering choices. For American TR6s, the number 104 is bandied about, but it could be even lower than that. Triumph still used twin carburetors, but they were now twin Stromberg CD2SEVs instead of the old SUs that people were accustomed to back in the days of sidescreens and dzus fasteners.
The TR6’s interior still looks appropriate for a proper British sports car, with plenty of wood on the dashboard and gauges to keep the driver apprised of what the engine is up to. Can you smell the vague oiliness of the experience from this picture alone? I can, and it’s glorious. Of course, the interior needs some work, but one thing a Triumph owner doesn’t have to worry too much about (for now) is parts availability. I used to order Triumph catalogs for a car I didn’t have, and although times have changed, I imagine I could still do the same thing.
The owner says that this rugged-looking TR6 has had a new fuel system, a new clutch, and new spark plugs. It runs, drives, and stops, but could still use a little tuning (couldn’t all old cars?). Still, for $4,900, this is pretty much a no-brainer if it’s solid, and I imagine it will be sold by the end of the day. Will you be the buyer?
Would sure buy this one over the ’77 Porsche 911. Wouldn’t take much to fix up the interior and the little things still left over from the sellers maintenance work.
Wow!! If it isn’t rusty, this is a great car at a great price!! I owned one about 30+ years ago, and it was sure fun and fast!! Easy to work on too!! From what I remember, it had a lot of torque!! Should sell fast at that price if it isn’t rusty!!
I have always liked the looks of these cars. Wish I could get this one.
I’d buy this in a heartbeat if it was in my neighborhood…if it is truly rust-free or with only surface rust.
Knew a guy during college in the early 70s that had a white TR6 with red and blue pinstripes and a few small graphics. He managed to roll it over during his first few weeks of ownership. Amazingly, it was only lightly scuffed up. He was desperate to repair the damage (or at least hide the evidence) before going home to his parents for Thanksgiving break. We ‘touched up’ lots of spots with fresh paint in the Auto Club garage. We were SOOOOOO lucky that none of the red or blue graphics were affected!
Even now when I see one of these I marvel at how one could do a barrel roll in the air and barely show any adverse effects.
My rolled ’62 Midget looked pretty good after taking off the crushed hard top and windshield. Landed in a huge poison ivy area so damage not that bad. New top, windshield and paint and was back on the road in 4 weeks.
I was always partial to the look of the TR-6 and as others have noted, if this thing isn’t rusty, it’s a smokin’ deal.
I “inherited” one of these when I bought an auto repair shop back in the 80’s. The thing was, it was in pieces all over the shop, and the block and head were in machine shop being held hostage as the prior shop owner never paid the bill. The owner of the car became a friend, and together we worked on the car together after hours. In the end, the car got a custom paint job, real wire wheels, carburetor upgrade, and tons of other goodies. The customer, as I found out in time was the recipient of a large injury lawsuit settlement and had lots of money to throw at his dream car. I was handsomely paid for my time and had a ball driving the car during its time at my shop.
Wire wheels were on only available from the factory untill 1973, (although they could be retrofitted to later models) Personally I prefer the stamped steel wheels. (I think the wires make them look too much like a TR4)
I’ve never owned one of these, but fixed many. I like the way they squat under acceleration, haven’t come across another that does it like these do. If solid, this won’t last the day.
Paint a Union Jack on the hood, fix the luggage rack and driver’s seat cover, and then smile and drive.
These are the British equivalent of ’60’s American muscle cars, in the sense that there are enough parts available on the aftermarket, including complete new body shells and aftermarket frames to build an entire car from scratch! There are also lots of upgrade parts available, from replacement half shafts for the IRS to replace the cruciform U-joints with CV joints, to five speed transmission conversions, limited-slip differentials and even fuel injection to replace the finicky dual carburetor setup these cars came to the US with. British versions got fuel injection with Bosch components but a Lucas control box! What could possibly go wrong (he asked sarcastically)?
Frame rust on these was a problem, as was body rust, which is why aftermarket frames are a thing. The frame was made from two (2) pieces of u-channel spot welded together. Not Good.
Why what could possibly go off kilter with Lucas electronics? They are superb as long as you don’t let the smoke out.
The problem was that the smoke wanted to escape with annoying regularity, LOL! Free at last, free at last, Thank God Almighty, I’m free at last!
So true! (I know, I had a Healy that taught me all I ever wanted to know about Lucas electronics)
These were/are rumored to have a very weak bottom end to the engine, (only 5 main bearings).
5 main bearings on a 6 cylinder engine isn’t exactly weak. Might check your rumors.
It looks like the 2.5 Triumph has four main bearings, but so does Chrysler’s slant six.
True.