This 1976 Triumph TR6 is still wearing the protective (?) wax coating it was given over 30 years ago when it was garaged. After purchasing it and pulling it out of the garage, the seller has listed it for sale here on eBay. Bidding at this point is up to $5,100 without a reserve and you’ll have to relocate the car from Milford, Michigan if you are the winning bidder.
My hope is that the wax has protected the finish, but I do wish the seller had at least re-polished one small area to show us what the paint could/does look like under the wax. It’s encouraging that the exhaust shows effectively no rust and I’m hoping that’s an indicator of the rest of the car and how dry its environment has been.
Being the 1976 version of “the last of the hairy-chested British sports cars” (per Road & Track) this car benefits from some minor improvements made through the 1969-1976 life of the TR6 but it also has the heavier bumpers with “5 mph” over-riders.
That odometer is showing 27,536 miles. Given how original the car looks it may just be right. The cracks in the wooden dash finish on the glove compartment door aren’t unusual after this amount of time even with proper storage. I’m hoping that what looks like a rope hanging down under the steering column is just that, and that it’s attached to the original ignition key (that is the proper location).
Under the hood surprised me; I can’t remember the last time I saw a TR6 with an air pump in place that wasn’t in a concours show! Green spark plug wires are original for the car as well, along with green hoses. I can’t figure out what the large hose in front of the battery is for, though — it’s not original spec as far as I know. Overall this looks like a great car, especially if it is as nice as it looks! What do you think is under the wax?
The TR6 is a design that has never gotten old IMVHO. It is worrisome however to see hanging wires, 6 spark plugs on the passenger floor (the engine pix show spark plugs in their appropriate places) and you’re right, Jamie, the hanging rope-curious about the knots!
These are beautiful and great fun. Hopefully the wax hasn’t set into the paint and it runs as good as it can look, for the sake of the owner as stated by the seller.
BTW
Is it possible to retrofit the European fuel injection for the extra 50 HP we got shorted here in the US??! That’d be a head turner in its own right..
And no inner door panel @ the passenger side door?
It’s right behind the passenger seat.
Yes, but the cam alone and Richard Goods 3-Stromberg setup will get you there easier…
Good eye, Jamie.
I knew guys did the 3 side draft (draught?) Weber’s but 3 Stromberg set up? Didn’t know anything about until tonight. Thanks Jamie! Richard Good has an amazing understanding of these things British, I see. Be fun to go see him to say “help me understand what you have learned” wouldn’t it?
If memory serves me right the hose across the back is part of the air pump smog system.
Here in California, ’76 is the newest year requiring smog equipment and biannual checks. Wish I had known that before I bought my ’76 914.
Would the wax have actually helped the paint preserve or would it have made it worse by making itt blotchy?
I used some wax on a faded red MG Midget finish as a last ditch effort to gain some lustre. After application on the metal for far less time than on this TR6, the paint began to blister and the dried polish was almost impossible to remove by hand. In the end, I got a little lustre, a lot of pimples, and obvious swirl marks. Here is the car as it rolled onto the trailer and to a new owner.
The triple SU or ZS isn’t a great solution on a TR6. There’s a reason why Jaguar and Healey dropped them (quickly) as a performance option on their inline 6’s. Two of the cylinders are not paired at 180 degree’s so one cylinder gets more of the air/fuel mixture the other gets starved. Hard to get a good idle. For the cost, there are far better performance options…even triple Webers. They are nice bling though.
This car is pretty cool. Lots of work to do, but at the right price this is a nice find.
Just out of curiosity, have you driven a well-set up car with the Goodparts triple Stromberg setup? I have a hard time believing you have based on your suggestion. I still remember Richard running away from TR8s (and pretty much everyone else) at the drag strip at a TRF Summer Party a long time ago. I’m not arguing with you about the technical aspects of what you’re saying, I’m just telling you that the Goodparts system has it solved.
I have and I prefer the weber setup, but then again I am more comfortable with webers.
I would like to build one with jenvey throttle bodies, I think that would be a hoot.
Richard Good really knows these cars well and is a pleasure to talk with. Everything I do to them is just copying him.
I used to own the TR6’s little brother, namely a 1963 Triumph Spitfire, Mk.1. It came with a trunk rack overdrive. Wooden dash etc but had a hard time getting out of its own way because the suspect suspension set up. I believe the hose mentioned; it is attached to a water jacket connection on one end and the other is attached to the intake manifold; it was used to cool the intake charge. My favourite Triumph!
Given the price of a quality respray these days, no way would I offer anything approaching market value for paintwork hidden under wax and dirt.
My understanding is that a good choice of cam and bringing the compression ratio up to 9.5 or more will make a substantial difference in power. There are obviously plenty of other mods that will all raise the power too, but those two relatively simple and inexpensive changes are the most beneficial ?
This car seems like it could be a good buy. A relatively straight and rust-free body is a bonus. You’ll definitely be spending some time replacing all the usual “soft parts”, seals, hoses, belts etc on a car that has stood that long, but they aren’t hard to find or expensive parts for these Triumphs and assuming you enjoy doing the work yourself, not a big budget item.
Looks like an overdrive control lever poking out of the right side of steering column? O/D a real nice-to-have feature if you actually intend to drive it much.
The car needs to be spayed down multiple times. The paste wax has lost all moisture and has turned into an abrasive resting on the surface.
Fun car. GLWTS.
A buddy of mine had one of these in high school what a blast to drive!! I loved the overdrive switch on the column and listened to stealy Dan cranked on the cassette player!!! Man those were good times!!! Thanks for all your insight guys it was interesting reading considering I never worked on it for him!!! It always seemed very trouble free!!!
Many many moons ago i rebuilt the suspension on a i believe a 70 TR6 for a customer that had one that he installed a SBC. I know don’t shoot me i did’nt do it. Sadly i read about the same car 2 months later wrapped around a pole and killed the driver instantly. I guess he could not handle the power
If wax or just about anything has been on the paint for 30 years, i’d imagine it’s in the paint now. Might have to be wet sanded or repaint is the worse scenario. Can be an expensive proposition as long as the car is rust free. Still going to be a project with many unknowns.
Yankee TR5s got something on the triple carbs. Replaced the smog dual carbs with some early models on a customer car and it made a huge difference. Street cam and a compression bump also good for hp without a lot of cash or effort.
Dried wax can typically be removed with kerosene without harming the paint. Of course, the length of time this wax has lain on the car and the paint formula may come into play here. Any real body pro’s out there to comment?
We certainly heard from a grammar pro…
I would love to learn how to get that wax off without destroying the paint.
I paint cars for a living, every paint company has a solvent based product we use to wipe down panels prior to painting them. Basically it’s a grease and wax remover , worth a try .
Daniel-San got his butt kicked by Mr. Miyagi on that one.