With the exorbitant amounts many owners have been expecting for their E-Body cars over the past few years, here’s a seller that’s finally going in the opposite direction, claiming that prices have actually softened since their peak. Although the asking price isn’t exactly cheap, he believes the cost of $67,500 has been adjusted accordingly, and I have to agree that this 1970 Plymouth Cuda is a lot of bang for your buck. If you’ve been waiting for a Cuda with some high-performance mods that’s ready to enjoy, this one’s probably worth considering, and it can be found here on Craigslist in Seattle, Washington. More Barn Finds kudos go out to reader Curvette, who was kind enough to send us the excellent tip here!
This beauty was born with a 383 engine, and while a powerful 440 is under the hood now, the numbers-matching engine is also included in the sale. Although it’ll be nice to retain the original block, the 440 seems right at home, as it’s also a 1970 date-code component and stuffed full of goodies. The seller says this pro-built big block features ported and polished heads, a steel forged crank, a deep sump oil pan and high-volume pump, plus an Edelbrock manifold with a Holley 750 CFM 4-barrel on top. Some other accessories include a Champion triple-core radiator with two electric fans to help keep things cool in the bay, with a Mopar 833 4-speed manual transmission providing the shifting duties.
As stunning as the outside appears now, it’s always a plus to get a peek at what a car looked like before the work began. The panels look like they were taken down to the metal here, and what’s more impressive is that the body appeared to be structurally sound overall to start with. That’s a really nice paint job it’s wearing now, and I’m digging how the stripes say 383. A set of factory wheels might be preferable in many cases, but for this application, the mags create a more aggressive demeanor and emphasize that this Cuda means business.
The interior has also been brought back to like-new condition, and it doesn’t seem like there’s anything left to do with this one except get behind the wheel and drive fast, unless you decide to eventually upgrade to the sportier rallye gauge cluster. Most of the time, I’m a fan of keeping classics as close to stock as possible, but the changes here were well-thought-out and tasteful. What are your thoughts on this 1970 Plymouth Cuda, and the seller’s market-adjusted asking price?
Just right. A good chunk of ’70s cars wound up just like this one. Good looking and fast is a great combination.
No go wing is a big plus for me. Body, paint and interior are great and if it runs as good as it looks this will be a fun ride. A lot of bucks but looks worth it.
For me at that price, I’d want to see a time slip from the drags to see if the go fast parts actually work together.
Its one thing to show, but it is surprisingly difficult to make these older cars actually turn a decent sub 14 number and at least give a Toyota a run for its money.
The color really looks great on this car.
Assuming typical pocket porting and a right-sized cam, it should have no trouble running in the 12s with a 3:91-4:10 gear and traction and a driver. My sixpack superbee with a little compression and a little bit of cam ran 12.80s with stock exhaust. To your point though, I’ve seen tons of guys, buy mid 13 second cars and get all droopy with they run high 14s with them.
Wheels and tires are horrific. Put the original shifter back in it, a set of 15 x 7 Rallyes and some Polyglas GT’s and he could get more for it, and sell it quickly. As it sits, it’s a limited market. Bottom line, it could be a nice car with about two hours of work. Hopefully, someone sees that and does just that. Not sure on that color…I’d like to see the fender tag. Hopefully, it’s not an all-over color change.
My thoughts to about the aftermarket rims and shifter!!!
Pretty nice, but I just don’t see 67K worth of car. I’m not a huge Mopar kind of fella, so I may be off base in my assessment, but that is my humble opinion. Also, could someone out there explain to me what in the heck is going on with that shifter. I assume that it is some sort of line lock gizmo, but it is a whole bunch of strange.
It resembles a stick grip out of a military jet. Trim button on top, mic button at the trigger, etc. I used to have one from a T-38. Wonder where that thing went…
at first< I thought it was an auto stick doing its best to imitate a pistol grip, but it's definitely a manual car. Not sure why they wouldn't have just installed a standard looking pistol grip.
Love the color and wheels. Sounds like this will get up and go ! I’m sure it could turn 11’s, if it hooks up good. Beautiful car ! So glad there’s not a spoiler on the trunk.
Right along with you. Don’t fully understand all the smoke about paint, wheels, and the gear shift lever even. Give it a break and don’t buy it if you don’t like it. Plenty on the market.
There is “no” possibility this will run in the 11’s as it sits. As Melton pointed out, if you go to as drag strip, you will be amazed that these mostly stock old cars will probably be the slowest cars at the track. It is quite difficult on street tires to hook up, and accurate shifting is essential. Plus sorting the mixture, timing and a ton of other things all have to be right to even see a 13.
You don’t see any young guys like we were with the hood up tuning them. Occasionally you see us grey hairs out there for test and tune. The FAST series is an exception and those cars are the height of perfection. But it is very difficult to duplicate their results. I know, I try with my Duster.
You can see new high horsepower Mustang or Challenger turning 12’s or quicker all day long and blow you into the weeds doing it!.
The cars that run FAST series events are purpose built race cars which anre required to appear stock.
Steve R
They better, considering what they cost now – vs, for example …
https://www.facebook.com/groups/grewup/posts/781318445831228/
However, for ex.,the rare 1968 Dodge Dart L023, which was a dedicated drag racing car with a factory Hemi, cost around $3,189 for the hardtop.
Not sure that it will sell at that price.
Anyone else notice that prices seem to be
dropping a lot lately (overall) on these kind
of cars?
Prices are dropping because the people who want these cars are aging out and the younger generations don’t care to own one. No demand for the supply. There’s a time to hold’em and a time to fold’em.
Maybe, but also consider that the apex cars, which influence the value of the entire population of a given make and model, are almost always traded as commodities. Right now, with markets soaring, interest rates still up, and radical changes in Governmental and societal priorities occurring, there are a lot of other interesting investment opportunities that are more liquid and more reactive to a changing landscape than dimensionally large, 4000 lb hard assets. Big money guys sell out of cars and prices decline until economic factors make collectable cars more appealing than other opportunities, which is actually a rarity. I love old cars, but it’s a very speculative market, that casual investors tend to shy away from unless there’s just nothing else interesting to invest in. Point is, prices are not driven by the average enthusiast, and when the conditions are right, values will recover.
Prices are dropping because the people who want these cars are aging out and the younger generations don’t care to own one. No demand for the supply. There’s a time to hold’em and a time to fold’em.
A true Cuda especially 1970 four speed cuda then it completely rust free. With the sale you get the brutt motor and stock motor. That big motor needs 900 cfm.
I’m so tired of Sublime green or purple this color looks fantastic. They call the gray metallic Winchester Grey. $7.5 K in motor, bell housing and clutch & its completely rust free. I really like it. Wheels aren’t permanent 😎
This “color” reminds me too much of what today’s ugly colorless 4 door appliances are painted. There was soooo much more to choose from besides sublime green or purple back in 1970! …
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0271/7931/9375/files/1970-plymouth-pg01.jpg?9362
A true Cuda especially 1970 four speed cuda then it completely rust free. With the sale you get the brutt motor and stock motor. That big motor needs 900 cfm.
I’m so tired of Sublime green or purple this color looks fantastic. They call the gray metallic Winchester Grey. $7.5 K in motor, bell housing and clutch & its completely rust free. I really like it. Wheels aren’t permanent 😎
Reading the ad it comes with the stock motor and pistol grip. The body paint and interior are flawless. theres nothing not to like. At least it is not lime green or purple, and no go wing.
Patrick, you’re correct. Most people way overestimate the carburetor required, but you’re spot on. If the motor is what it’s claimed to be it should run out of fuel around 6000 RPM. It would need about 900 CFM to turn over 7000 RPM.
The calculation is easy. CFM = (CID x RPM x VE) divided by 3456.
CFM = Carb CFM
CID = Engine displacement
RPM = Max engine RPM
VE = Volumetric efficiency, the amount of fuel the cylinders can ingest, usually
around 90%, (0.9) this doesn’t apply to forced induction or nitrous oxide.
3456 is a conversion factor, 1728 Cu.In/Cu Ft. x 2 because the motor only
takes in fuel every other revolution
It’s a really nice car, hope it does well. I got rid of the 1980’s vintage mags I ran on my 65 Belvedere back in the day, the Mopar rally wheels I have now look a lot better.
That CFM number can change depending on Inches of water it is measured at. Carbs are measured at 28″, while the many engine parts are measured at 10. So the published CFM for a carb is much higher than the comparative number produced through a manifold. Plus most older pushrod ICE engines are only about 65% efficient so they suck less than the formula would imply.
I love it just the way it is, if only I could win that darned lotto !