Decisions, decisions. This 1938 Ford De Luxe Tudor wears its original paint and is a rock-solid survivor that runs and drives. It shows its age and would be a prime candidate for a sympathetic restoration. However, would that be the most appropriate course for the new owner to follow? After all, they’re only original once, and this old beauty would certainly command respect in its current form. If you have a clear vision for this classic, you will find it listed here on Craigslist in Denver, Colorado. I must say a big thank you to Barn Finder Mike F. for spotting a survivor that could be yours for $6,850.
Ford unveiled the De Luxe range in 1938 to fill a gap in its model lineup. Diversity was the key, with the company offering buyers ten body styles. This first-year example is a Tudor Sedan. Its history is unclear, but the seller states that its Black paint is original. It undeniably shows its age, and some exterior surfaces have accumulated surface corrosion. However, the seller claims that there is no penetrating rust. The panels are also straight, meaning that it could be a prime candidate for a fairly straightforward restoration. Alternatively, the buyer could treat the dry corrosion to prevent deterioration, preserving the Ford as a genuine survivor. The bright trim’s condition is consistent with the car’s age, and the glass appears to be in relatively good condition.
The originality of this Ford continues in its interior. It isn’t perfect, but the lack of significant wear and holes suggests its owners have cherished and protected this classic for eighty-eight years. The headliner fit on the rear pillar is slightly out, but I believe that it could be pulled back into place. I am so impressed with this interior that all I would do is throw blankets over the seats for protection during regular use. I would remove them for events like Cars & Coffee so that spectators can admire their remarkable condition. Otherwise, I wouldn’t touch a thing.
Ford introduced its venerable flathead V8 in 1932, breaking new ground for an affordable V8 in the American passenger car market. The flathead proved to be a survivor, and there are plenty of classics from this vintage still prowling the streets with over nine decades of active service under their belts. This 1938 De Luxe features the 221ci version, sending 85hp to the rear wheels via a three-speed manual transmission. The car’s performance would have been considered impressive in its prime, and it would still trundle along quite happily today. The seller states that it has a genuine 56,000 miles on its odometer, although with no apparent evidence, the claim must be taken at face value. They upgraded the car to 1939 “juice” brakes, but it is otherwise unmolested. The Ford runs and drives, appearing to be a turnkey proposition.
Some enthusiasts are unwilling to consider a restoration project because the price of admission can be prohibitive. However, this 1938 Ford De Luxe Tudor is undeniably affordable. That brings me back to my initial question: whether restoring this gem would be the right move. The lack of rust and panel imperfections would make the process fairly straightforward, which might make the Ford irresistible. Others will feel that, since it has survived for almost nine decades untouched, it should be allowed to continue proudly carrying its survivor tag. Do you agree?
Clean, polish, and wear.
Yep…this is a nice one – not sure why they keep so well up there….sounds looks like a good buy ! Does it look familar to anyone ?
This is a car that would make a great project car. It’s solid and has a nice drive train to work with or upgrade depending on the person.
Any idea how many times my ’58 Volvo 444 was called this car. Maybe a little. Thanks Mike, now post some trucks,,:)
I’m lookin’, I’m lookin’!!
Clean it up, change the fluids, and drive it every chance you get. The more an older vehicle like this can be seen the bigger the chance of sparking interest in old cars in a younger person.
Twenty-five years ago, the asking price would have been $20K.
There were Standard and DeLuxe model Fords in 1937. I don’t know about 1936.
Great article and great car! The Early Ford V-8 Club has an unrestored class; this would be perfect!
I owned 1934, 1934 and 1936 Fordors. All were Deluxe models. The 33 and 34 Deluxe features included dual horns, dual tail lights and cowl lights. The 36 deluxe had dual horns, dual tail lights, chrome strip on the running board and humpback trunk with external lid
Wish I still had my 33.
good price for a solid survivor.
Wow! Finally a good deal on a old Ford! looks complete, even the headliner is good. Will make a great project, you won’t have to spend hours and money looking for parts.
This is identical to my late father’s very first caf. Paid $75 for it. It had two different colored fenders, quwstionable brakes, and three different sized bald tires and one good one. But his eyes would light up every time he would talk about.
If Dad was still around, I’d buy it in a heartbeat and give it to him just so we could tinker around with it…
BUY IT!!! Then join your local chapter of the Early Ford V-8 Club. Personally I would leave it like it is, But I would also take the advise of others in the club as to how to preserve it enough so that surface rust does NOT work its way in deeper.
Yes, good deal for someone. The Early Ford V-8 Club judging for these original preserved cars is termed “Rouge Class”, named for the River Rouge next to the Dearborn Ford plant. There are three Rouge categories: Body, Interior and Engine Compartment. The owner may enter in one category or all three. As to what to do to keep the surface rust from getting worse, it is debatable. Some would pay the money to restore, lots of work and money and never original surface again. Others may use an oil / acetone treatment. A clearcoat may slow rust or not, but would not look right and not be original, cheaper than paint for some.
I like the headlights and some other details on this one. Be cool to own
It’s pretty sharp.
Looks good a nice repaint and go crusin
This would be a great project, something that would require a major detailing. I don’t know if I would’ve bothered to upgrade to juice brakes; I’ve worked on and driven lots of mechanical versions and they stopped just fine.
I will say that the ’37 and up mechanicals left something to be desired. Rods tend to keep their adjustment better than cables, and, IMO, are easier to set up to stop in a straight line. Cables constantly stretch and you’ll be having to “steer” your car as you attempt to stop it.
Not a good engine shot but that looks like it could well be the original engine in that bay. The 81A was a transition year in that it went from 21 to 24 studs during the production run. I have the original engine from my (otherwise boosted–another story) ’38 Standard. It’s a 21 stud and sports the Stromberg 97 carb.
Last year for the 3rd Brush generators. Personally, I hated them; you could never get that 3rd brush set right. You either had it overcharging or the battery going dead. I did know a couple of old-time mechanics who could get them working perfectly; I guess I lacked the patience.
For trucks like my ’38 IH and my ’35 Ford, the best way to run a 3rd brush is to either swap it out for a 2-brush with regulator, and turf the cut-out relay, or set the 3rd brush to the max setting and install a regulator. It worked so much better. I might add that trying to find a ’39 (2-brush) generator with the fan mounted is akin to finding that winning Powerball ticket…
Geomechs…Just about every post you put on here is a tutorial on older vehicle mechanicals…not always relevant to what I’m doing but always informative and interesting. I learn alot. Thanks much! (Also applicable to a number of others who contribute).
Thanks, Mike. I love to trade information whenever I can. I’ve been a gearhead all my life and worked professionally in the repair business for over 50 years. I’m sure I drive my better half to the brink of despair when I get into a conversation with a similar-minded gearhead…
The 38 Fords were never real popular, but that was then and this is now. For the price this car is a no-brainer. Before coming to AZ. I lived in Colo if I still did I would look at this car and probably buy it! I would clean it and detail it to the maximum possible. Then a dropped axle and 16 inch steel wheels with caps and trim rings and WW’s. Then drive it everywhere and have more fun than seems possible for less than 15 thousand dollars.
Exactly the kind of car I am interested in. Original inside and out (mostly), late’30’s, driver, with age appropriate patina. If only it were located closer than Denver…
What I would do is satin /flat clear coat paint the rust on top. To encapsule the surface rust .Keep it from rusting any more . Spray down the under hood with WD-40 and wipe off. Go over the electrical wires and ends . Make sure all good . AND DRIVE IT !!! WOULD BE AN ABSOLUTE BLAST !!!
Good reasonable price. Can’t imagine a better way to start enjoying an antique vehicle. Buy it and drive it. And as already stated, being seen will most certainly promote other younger people to gain interest. My grandson frequently borrows my 40 Plymouth. I’m always ready to throw him the keys. It gives me the chance to drive his Miata. Win win.
Ricky Madison approves!
I have a real love-spot for the 1938 Ford! I was SOOOOOO disappointed when they changed the “nose” in 1939! The 1939 Standard was SORT-of the Deluxe ’38, but they altered it just enough to spoil what made the ’38 so pretty! That’s what Ford did back then: the Deluxe was their current style, and rhe Standard was a warmed-over version of the previous year’s car, with less trim. Since the 1938 Deluxe was an all-new body, the 1938 Standard was an entirely different car, as a warmed-over ’37. Ford kept this same body up through 1940. But the ’41 was once again all-new, and not as sweepingly graceful, more bulbous. And even the Standard in 1941 had the new body. After Ford defected from the Art Deco grille for 1939, my new vehicular “love” was the 1939 Buick. Wish I were closer to Denver; I’d absolutely LOVE to own this car!!! And these would run the nuts on any road, with Columbia Overdrive! But don’t let it sit still whilst idling: these puppies will over-heat quickly — even with TWO water jackets and two waterpumps, and an oversized radiator (ask me how I know). But the Ford flathead V-8 runs so smoothly and silently, it’s like having an elecfric car.
Whatever happened to my post??? I discussed a number of things about this car, posted it, the post showed as a post… and now it’s GONE!!! This is far from the first time, either.
This car, I am agrieved to say, is not a true survivor. I never saw a 1938 Ford in my life with GREY upholstery. They were earth-toned up through 1942, and only the Super Deluxe had grey upholstery in 1946 (except for the station wagon, which was earth-toned to compliment the wood). So, someone has re-upholstered this car and overstuffed the seats for added comfort. The original seats were never this “cushy”. That said, is that an accessory turn signal kit arop the steering column?
Harrison, see your post finally appeared eight days later. Was it the plural word for a “young dog” that triggered the long pause? Totally innocent on your part. That’s the world we live in.
Harrison, I know that the posts can be frustrating, especially after you spent some considerable thought and time only to lose it. That doesn’t occur as often as it used to for me though. Funny, I have thought a post was lost at times only to have it reappear later. I am not sure if something I typed “triggered” a hold, later to be okayed. I’m at the computer screen and keyboard now, so this is easier than if I’m lying on the couch on my phone.
You made me go back and check those seats. Yes, they definitely are in too good a condition to be original. I know what you mean about earth tones for upholstery. A friend of mine had a 41 Fordor with seats that he had redone with a sort of brown / tan (twill?) material, maybe before the fall of LeBaron Bonney Company. And, he did have them stuffed more than usual for what he called a “command position” so he could see the road better. He sold that car for a song after he lost his left leg in a motorcycle accident. No more clutches for him, but crutches. One good thing about the Craigslist ads over Facebook is that we can click on a photo to make it bigger. It could just be the camera and lighting or fading. The seats look grey atop but tan from the side view with door open, but not earth tone.
Hello i sent you a message 2 days ago but got no reply?.
I do not see an early post. Are you referring to Harrison, me, the seller of the car, or the Barn Finds staff? If Barn Finds, I think their email is [email protected].
Hello Dave,The msg i sent was would you sell it for $6000 ?.
Thanks Hans in Australia.
Hans, you need to contact the seller by clicking on the red Craigslist ad above and follow thru “contact seller” I think. They should accept I think if sale is not already in process. Lots of interest. Good luck. I follow the V8 newsletter down your way as I edit ours near Philadelphia.
Hans, From what I have learned on truck sites importing a vehicle into Australia can be tricky!! Contact some one in AU to help you. The only person I know of off the top of my head is Tony Champion, the MACK dealer in Rockhampton QLD. Australia has some very strict regulations on Asbestos!!! Clutch and brake linings and other things and customs inspections can take a month or more.
Thanks , But i,ve don it before had no problems after first one, cheers Hans