Gleaming refrigerator white paint and a nearly perfect blue interior contrast with obvious rust on this mixed-bag classic. The 1973 International Harvester Scout II in Ventura, California features a mild lift, wagon wheels, and winch, period mods that make a sharp-looking Day Two driver. The privilege of welding new metal into the original V8 four-speed Scout can be yours for $23,900 here on Craigslist, where the seller claims it “runs & drives excellent.” Thanks to reader Pat L. for spotting this rugged-looking IH.
Check out that immaculate cloth driver’s seat! As you might suspect, that is new upholstery of the original type, according to the seller. My Grandfather had two specimens of this generation Scout II, and I don’t remember either looking this good inside. That blue color really pops against the stark white painted metal. That modern single-DIN stereo has to go, though a stealth version tucked out of sight would be fine. Some purists have a hard time trusting a truck that doesn’t show some painted metal in the interior. My ’85 Ford F250 Custom had metal everywhere inside, including above your head where there was no headliner, only body-color painted metal. Vinyl or rubber flooring adds to the utility of this Scout, making for easy clean-out.
The tan or yellow hard top clearly came from another vehicle. Most Jeep alternatives in those days came with bolt-on tops that could be removed for open-air adventures, albeit not in a minute or less.
The 304 cid (5.0L) V8 earned a good reputation in these trucks, and my Grandpa’s similar rig towed a small travel trailer or boat with no problem. One time the Scout’s muffler rusted out and it sounded like an angry stock car. I thought it was the coolest thing ever, but my Grandmother was not amused! The new owner should waste no time installing real battery cables in place of the $2.00 clamp-on terminals. I normally fix all the metal before worrying about the interior, but everyone has their priorities. Would you go 24 large on this partially-restored Scout?
No.
For all the rust I see at the bottom of the A and B-pillars, I agree with Harvey; that’s a hard no. There’s no telling what the floor looks like under those vinyl floormats, and having experienced just how much moisture they trap firsthand, I’d want to see under every inch of them. There are some nice bolt-ons here, but for $24K I’d want all the rust remediated and a matching hardtop.
“Restored” is incorrectly used here. With a winch, driving lights, incorrect upholstery, blackened tailgate, and exterior colors that I don’t recall as being factory correct, this is far from a restoration.
Todd… If you don’t use clamp on terminals on this kind of battery what do you use? Half my stable has the same terminals from the factory.
Hello bobhess! Thanks for the question. I didn’t do a good job of explaining that. You’re seeing how it clamps the terminal, which was standard and acceptable for decades (though the newer style ones are better) but I’m referring to the cheesy stamped steel clamp connection to the cable. No factory cable has that low-budget arrangement. Picture attached! Even if exact factory replacement cables are not available, it would be far better to get a too-long generic cable and put a service loop somewhere. There are also the “Military Style” terminals that accommodate a custom-length soldered or crimped end.